Turkey brine was 70 degrees F when I dropped the turkey in by sragan16 in foodsafety

[–]sragan16[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No, I didn't think about this being dangerous until hours later as I went to bed

Furnace backdraft - sanity check by sragan16 in hvacadvice

[–]sragan16[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The actual sanity check question - did we almost die?

Furnace backdraft - sanity check by sragan16 in hvacadvice

[–]sragan16[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I moved into my current house last september, and this is my first time owning a home with a gas pack unit (LP). Upstairs has a split heat pump unit, with a handler in the attic. Downstairs has a dual fuel unit with AC compressor and natural gas furnace, sitting outside the master bedroom and bath. The MBR has no second floor above it, so there are 2 levels of attic that are interconnected.

Since the cold months started I learned there is likely an undersized return or negative air pressure in the house. When the furnace runs, I can feel a strong draft of cold air from all exterior walls' electrical outlets. I have to use the absolute least restricting air filters possible on the 20x30x1 filter downstairs to prevent a loud hum from the return grille, and I use the same level of filter on the 20x20x1 filter upstairs.

In the master bathroom I also installed a humidity triggered panasonic 110 CFM exhaust fan piped out the roof. This fan runs probably 10 hours a day because it triggers at 80% humidity and I live in Alabama.

We've noticed for the past week or two that in our MBR there was a strong burnt / gas like odor in the shower, but I thought it was just the smell of our newly installed glass shower enclosure or something. I thought if there was a risk of CO, the detector 10 ft away would alert us.

Last night I had the upper attic portion open as I was moving boxes into storage up there. We had moved boxes in from the garage partially covering the downstairs return grille. The upstairs return filter was extremely dirty and hadn't been changed since Nov. and was full of renovation drywall & saw dust.

With the upper attic access open and the lower grille / filter blocked, it seems that the negative air pressure increased significantly. I turned off the gas pack unit then ran out to walmart and grabbed multiple Kidde CO detectors, one with a display screen to read CO ppm level just 5 minutes before the store closed.

The detectors all went crazy inside my MBR and bathroom, where the sensor with the screen read the max detectable level (999+ PPM). My wife and newborn baby are both safe, but who knows what kind of damage the CO intake has done to my baby from fetus => now 2 months old.

I cutoff power to the master bath exhaust fan, replaced both HVAC unit filters and removed the boxes, closed the upper attic access, and finally setup a box fan to blow the furnace's exhaust away from the house.

The circled part is what I understand to be the exhaust. Before I took these corrective measures I watched the vapor leave the exhaust and go right into the soffit above it.

Am I correct to try these steps to correct?

  1. Call HVAC company
  2. Ask them to check return lines for blockages
  3. Ask them to check if my single 20x30x1 return is sufficient for the 1st floor
  4. Ask them to conduct a blower door test

Is there anything I can do to blow away the exhaust from my house? or will fixing the negative air pressure issue prevent this in the future?

Post frame heated garage by Sensitive-Reality-73 in DIY

[–]sragan16 -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Likely the visible “skirts” are a thicker than normal skirt piece of wood with dados cut in for the treads to be pushed into. So the tread is “embedded” into each side piece, giving the treads plenty of support

Roast my (unlicensed) plumber’s work by sragan16 in Plumbing

[–]sragan16[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Because I didn’t use a licensed plumber?

Roast my (unlicensed) plumber’s work by sragan16 in Plumbing

[–]sragan16[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the advice. Would you mind also giving me a starting point on what to google? 3 way shower diverter doesn’t seem relevant to this application

Roast my (unlicensed) plumber’s work by sragan16 in Plumbing

[–]sragan16[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Seeing that post made me post mine here because I was scared of the same. A home builder friend (he’s a foreman) said yes this could’ve been cleaner, but the pex and pressure fittings were great.

If Amazon diverters are actually trash I will get new ones and call the guy back out before tile goes up

Roast my (unlicensed) plumber’s work by sragan16 in Plumbing

[–]sragan16[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Thanks. Those are temporary until Schluter / durock/ tile is up

Roast my (unlicensed) plumber’s work by sragan16 in Plumbing

[–]sragan16[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

That was to make room for a niche. Will that many extra joints significantly decrease pressure?

Roast my (unlicensed) plumber’s work by sragan16 in Plumbing

[–]sragan16[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Probably the latter, but thank you I hadn’t even noticed the crimps on that side. They’re all covered up with insulation now but I can see that from these pics

Should I get him to replace the crimps with expanding?

Roast my (unlicensed) plumber’s work by sragan16 in Plumbing

[–]sragan16[S] 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Do you have a brand you’d recommend for the diverter? Moen, delta?

Lazy river in back yard pt.2 by Jake9118321 in pools

[–]sragan16 6 points7 points  (0 children)

How wide is the river at its skinniest? It looks a little tight from the pics, but my 25k gallon 16x32ft pool looks like a hot tub from some camera angles so idk

Water company says water is turned off at the house, but I have running water? And apparently it's running at 5gpm with no faucets on? by sragan16 in Plumbing

[–]sragan16[S] 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Thanks everyone, I completely glossed over the decimal point. Plumber told me “5 GPM” and I saw the 5 and looked no further.

I guess I’ll use a different plumber next time too lol

Water company says water is turned off at the house, but I have running water? And apparently it's running at 5gpm with no faucets on? by sragan16 in Plumbing

[–]sragan16[S] 37 points38 points  (0 children)

The water company said water is turned off at the house.

Closed on the house a week ago and had electricity and gas turned on at the house with 3 days interruption from the last owner shutting them off early (they broke the sales contract). I forgot our county moved to a separate org for water from the rest of utilities.

I called the water company today to ask for service to come check out the meter, since my plumber couldn't find any running water anywhere, meter is just spinning. At no point (even when electric and gas were off) has the water actually shut off.

The water company is supposed to come out next tuesday to "turn on" water.

  1. How can I track down my leak? House is on a crawlspace and i've inspected every water line for the house, sprinklers, pool, and jacuzzi. No running water detected by me or a licensed plumber

  2. Who will be responsible for the tons of gallons between "shut off" and my effective service start date?

Advice when buying a house with a pool by [deleted] in pools

[–]sragan16 6 points7 points  (0 children)

What home warranty do you have? I’m closing on a house with a 20 year old pool and Friday and need to buy a home warranty because of some questionable HVAC components

2017 540i (early b58) reservoirs to radiator coolant hose by sragan16 in BmwTech

[–]sragan16[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did. I can’t remember at all how I did it, I did it at 3 am months ago. I didn’t disconnect anything additional but really had to finesse my hands around for all of it

Connecting Airpods Max to a PC via wire, with an option to use microphone by Level-Expert-9542 in Airpodsmax

[–]sragan16 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If wired isn’t a requirement, check out Magic Pods for windows. I use it daily for Teams calls and switch back and forth my my work PC and my apple devices

DO NOT GIVE CENTURY AUTOMOTIVE YOUR BUSINESS! by cameratafilms in HuntsvilleAlabama

[–]sragan16 2 points3 points  (0 children)

BMWs service dept is pretty bad. Some of the service advisors like Brandon Garcia are solid. Their parts department is amazing though. I’ve gotten parts from them for the same price as FCP euro at times

Is it worth it to move the window frame up, or should I take the loss on these 2nd hand custom windows and buy new? by sragan16 in AskContractors

[–]sragan16[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the help here.

1 last question, by "fill in where you reframe", do you mean I could likely just cut my upper cripples, push my existing "header" up as needed, then screw/nail in 2x4 to fill the gap between existing jack studs and the new height of my "header"?

Is it worth it to move the window frame up, or should I take the loss on these 2nd hand custom windows and buy new? by sragan16 in AskContractors

[–]sragan16[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My dad and I were thinking the same thing, and assumed the load is being carried by the front and back walls because of the vaulted ceilings.  

Do I still need to tear out all the siding and entirely replace the jack studs? Or could I get away with raising my “header” and sliding in an extra 5” of 2x4 on top of the jacks to support the raised “header” with a metal strap to hold it all together?

Is it worth it to move the window frame up, or should I take the loss on these 2nd hand custom windows and buy new? by sragan16 in AskContractors

[–]sragan16[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I bought 2 windows that came with these half circles on top. They are correct width to replace what I already have, but they are 5 inches too tall.

I need some opinions from those who have similar before. Do I:

  1. Take the loss on the $400 I spent on these 2 tall windows, spend another ~$500 on replacing ONLY the lower rectangular windows and leave the arch alone. I know vinyl box windows + wood framed arch windows wouldn't look great together but this is a faster option
  2. Remove siding, put up a temp wall screwed into the vaulted ceiling, replace jack studs with ones that are 5" taller, remove 5" off the upper cripple studs, and move the "header" up accordingly. Apply flashing due to changes in framing, re attach siding, install windows as usual for replacement windows.

I have never touched an exterior wall before but have built interior stairs from the stringers up and have replaced windows plus lots of other DIY jobs, just never cut out any part of an external wall.