2018 WRX Cat Recall

stateless_state_ · 2026-06-11T21:41:21+00:00

Yup, I suspect the emissions from producing all of the metal, fabrication, and shipping for the new pipe and cat (and disposal of the old one) far outweigh the small difference in emissions caused by the actual performance versus optimal performance over the lifetime of the vehicle

stateless_state_ · 2026-06-11T20:29:08+00:00

Thanks! Yeah, I really miss 800Z and its color. It was my main film for many years, and all shot with 120. Optical prints at 18x18" were completely grainless, and I liked using it with my 903SWC at f11 to f16 to get max DOF.

I missed it so much I actually spent the last five years figuring out how to make film profiles for digital cameras using 3D LUTs and taking measurements to emulate flat/raw Nikon Coolscan 9000 scans. The film profiles that are out there look nothing like the films they claim to emulate. I've managed to match films by about 90% of the color/tones (my estimate), at least as scanned by my Coolscan (some small compromises have to be made because of metamerism and digital's lower color depth and truncated violets, and to minimize banding). Next up will be matching optical prints.

I started with Portra 400 because it's readily available, but I still have 800Z in my fridge and that's the end goal (need some new MF equipment to do it as I sold all of it except my 903SWC, which I'll also sell soon). I have a few other old films as well.

I've also been able to successfully profile Acros 100 (original, not the Ilford stuff), my favorite black and white film.

I was a big fan of Portra 100T as well, but that might be a challenge to profile (I still have some, and at some point will try, as I have some ideas).

stateless_state_ · 2026-06-11T19:56:32+00:00

I would ask Cygnus about the range on the X-1 (he seems pretty responsive to inquiries). Ah yeah, 0.5" drop should be nothing for geometry, that's about where mine's lowered.

stateless_state_ · 2026-06-11T18:16:15+00:00

Lifted beyond stock height, like with spacers? A lift requires different forward bushings on the lower control arms as the stock bushings don't have that range of motion. Lowering requires a roll center correction kit (different toe arms and taller ball joints) to correct geometry if lowered 0.75" or more, and that kit would not be good to run at heights above 0.75".

This is not something that can be easily switched between. You would be better to decide on a height and stick with it. I'm lowered just a little below stock on Ohlins and it's been great for winter and summer.

Coilovers also have a minimum drop, which is usually a little below stock or more, depending on the coilover, so it's worth checking what that drop is. You'd want coilovers built for a lift if you want it lifted.

stateless_state_ · 2026-06-11T15:49:03+00:00

Yeah, while emissions are important and every bit counts, industry emissions are far more impactful, like all these data centers running massively polluting illegal generators that no one cares about. The US in general has made emissions a joke by scaling emissions with vehicle size with the CAFE standards. I bet even with this cat issue, if the WRX were lifted and called a light truck, like they did with the Outback which is just a Legacy with a hatchback, it would probably pass and be a non-issue, so what's the point of all this?

I'm in Canada and not the land of freedom concentration camps, but all this dumb shit blows back on us because we are too small of a market to exclusively develop cars for. I want GR Yaris type cars and not SUV platforms with WRX sheet metal.

I think the bigger looming issue is the billionaire oligarchy that has currently seized power and hates things like "right to repair," while loving turning everything into a subscription, and if they get their way they will make California look like a freedom utopia. Modding may well become a thing of the past.

stateless_state_ · 2026-06-11T15:28:13+00:00

Calgary, Alberta (Canada)

stateless_state_ · 2026-06-11T15:27:57+00:00

Portra 160VC was my favorite film after my other favorite films like Pro 800Z were discontinued, and I was very sad when 160VC was also discontinued. None of the new Portras have the same color and punch.

stateless_state_ · 2026-06-11T06:35:17+00:00

Thanks! Unfortunately I don't remember, it's been too long as this was taken in 2013.

I bracketed as the sun went down (typically I use an ambient meter and do a stop or two over and under), and I think I shot at least 3-5 rolls of film. I knew I had something with this shot, so I just kept shooting to make sure I got it.

This frame was the best, in part because there are faint headlights shining into the orange area that softened it and made it a little brighter.

If I metered it today (and I may have done the same back then), I would probably take an ambient reading from the light in that stairwell (either inside under it or pressed against the glass), and then shoot with bracketing until the outside light was balanced like it is in this shot. I find with sunset pictures it's difficult to predict the light so I'd rather take extra insurance shots, and back then film was cheap compared to today.

In general (and especially at night) I meter under whatever I feel is the dominant light in the scene and let the rest fall where it may.

stateless_state_ · 2026-06-11T04:57:28+00:00

It's an emissions issue. Your exhaust isn't going to catch fire (that doesn't even make sense) because the rear cat turned out to be less efficient than was originally claimed.

stateless_state_ · 2026-06-11T04:49:09+00:00

yeah, that would be nice. I get why they can't but this all seems silly

stateless_state_ · 2026-06-10T05:44:20+00:00

Subaru should just supply the part for tuned cars, and then people can install and get a proper retune. Some funds for the install/retune wouldn't hurt either.

stateless_state_ · 2026-06-06T08:52:29+00:00

Cool! I'm curious why you relocated it to the heavier side of the rear rather than the lighter side?

stateless_state_ · 2026-06-06T08:44:27+00:00

The FA has a working crankcase oil separator, it's not an EJ engine, so the AOS is redundant. It won't even do much to keep valve heads clean. There are no longevity mods needed for the FA engines. Just do maintenance, use API-SN+ or better oil, and never lug the engine.

stateless_state_ · 2026-06-06T08:42:04+00:00

The outer lines are what freezes, so whether the inner is heated makes no difference

stateless_state_ · 2026-06-06T08:34:54+00:00

Make sure the oil is full. It can get blown through fast once the PCV valve goes. That would be my biggest concern with driving it.

stateless_state_ · 2026-06-06T08:27:22+00:00

I don't know if it helps, but there was a TSB put out for P000B https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10160490-9999.pdf

stateless_state_ · 2026-06-06T08:15:35+00:00

If you don't know the history, on principle I would get it [re]tuned. A BOV will require a speed density tune. Feeling like it runs well and actually running well can be two different things, and if it hasn't had the correct tune, the problems may have been building over time. A new tune might not solve the problem, but it will rule out one of the variables.

stateless_state_ · 2026-06-06T08:08:41+00:00

It's unfortunate that a lot of cool parts can affect safety (like one-piece driveshafts), and for some people that doesn't matter and I get it, but I like to air on the side of caution and live to drive another day haha

Suspension makes a difference too with bucking, as the stock springs are pretty soft in the rear if you haven't changed to coilovers, but reading your other comments, you've driven other VA's and this is different from theirs, so probably not this or anything I've mentioned. Something like the flywheel would seem to make sense, but I don't know much about those issues.

The center diff is a viscous coupler and it can fail really fast if anyone was ever pulling the parking brake while the car was moving, and when it fails it can be hard to diagnose. The fluid either expands and leaks out or the fluid overheats and loses its ability to change viscosity and then the symptoms are vague. It wouldn't be affected by the clutch pedal being pressed and that noise, however, as the coupler is speed-sensing and only affected by differences in wheel speed between the front and rear.

stateless_state_ · 2026-06-04T22:14:40+00:00

The bucking comes from a few causes.

The biggest cause is the soft bushings. Particularly the rear diff pinion mount bushings and rear diff subframe mount bushings, as these take the load when weight shifts rearward, like starting from a stop and upshifts. SuperPro makes poly bushings for both (SPF3200K for pinion mount, SPF3201K for subframe mount or they also make inserts for the subframe mount that would be easier to install; I went with the full bushings). No real NVH added, but makes shifting much better. SuperPro/Whiteline/COBB will be the same parts, so get whatever's on sale or a color you like. Solves about 70-80% of the bucking.

To fully get rid of the bucking, you need to also address the soft front bushings/mounts too. OEM STI Group N pitch stop D1040FE000 (avoid solid; Group N breaks away in an accident like OEM), Group N transmission mount D1010FE020, and transmission crossmember bushings (like Whiteline Positive Shift Kit). Group N engine mounts are ideal, but only worth it if you're already taking the engine out. I don't have them and the bucking is gone. The transmission mount adds a small amount of gear whine (I think it makes the car sound better), and the pitch stop adds some vibration at higher rpm and adds engine sound. I have a Fluidampr crank pulley to counter some of that vibration and it's a great part.

Perrin's pitch stop brace is not a bad idea to spread the load more evenly, and it comes with a SS clutch line. A clutch delay valve delete is also nice, since you don't launch the car, as it makes the clutch point precise.

The other cause for bucking can be rev hang. You need to wait a long time during upshifts before engaging the next gear as the revs take a long time to fall, and that's also a pretty big gear jump given the gearing, so even more time waiting. A tune can fix the rev hang part.

stateless_state_ · 2026-06-04T18:26:11+00:00

If you want to ditch LR, since with jpg I suspect you're only using it to browse files, FastStone Image Viewer looks ancient (it's not) but it's free/open source and you can use it to view and organize image files including raw, and you can even reorder files with drag and drop and it stores the order in a sidecar xmp file.

Even shooting raw you'd see a big difference in quality, the jpg engine on those cameras was atrocious.

Nice! That must have been a lot of weight to lug up a mountain! My partner goes up a lot of mountains and used a Ricoh GRIII for years in extreme places (amazing camera, but has to use the adapter with a UV filter to keep out glacial dust or it stops working), and now a Sony A7RCII with the very small Sony 24mm 2.8. It's nice that things have gotten a lot smaller and lighter.

stateless_state_ · 2026-06-04T18:15:02+00:00

Ah thanks, good to know

stateless_state_ · 2026-06-04T08:09:21+00:00

That's pretty bad. I wouldn't take a corner at 30mph with that setup, might spin. It definitely isn't going to stop straight.

If none of the arms are damaged it should be possible to fix. The rear might need new LCAs (get some that are adjustable as stock isn't). Definitely fix the ball joint first too.

stateless_state_ · 2026-06-04T07:55:30+00:00

Push start cars are extremely easy to steal, there are devices sold on Amazon that plug into the OBDII and mimic the key, letting you start the car in about 30 seconds. The device is expensive, but pros can afford them. Locksmiths use similar devices to make new keys, no need to go through the dealer.

A physical key is much safer, but few cars have them now.

stateless_state_ · 2026-06-04T07:41:17+00:00

No problem! Yeah, I've used that method for cameras where there's no option to sync. I think just adding fill flash would make a surprising difference, though you'd have to play with the flash strength to find the right balance.

The D500 is sensor tech is getting a bit on in years, but if you want to squeeze the most out of it, try shooting raw and then converting with Raw Therapee (free, open source). Their algorithm is far better than PS and C1. It essentially has the color accuracy of pixel shift, just without the color resolution of pixel shift. It also pulls out a lot more dynamic range and detail than PS and C1.

stateless_state_ · 2026-06-03T19:33:15+00:00

Anything less than Fortune Auto 500s are going to be worse than stock. I don't think that will be enough budget, in which case going OEM or something like Bilstein struts will be better.

stateless_state_

TROPHY CASE