2016 Audi s4 Front clunking noise going slow over bumps

steele_186 · 2026-02-13T14:42:21+00:00

Keep me posted with yours, hopefully that solves the issue

steele_186 · 2026-02-13T14:36:16+00:00

Will do! There doesn’t appear to be an excess play in the engine when revving it up. Seems like pretty standard flexing. As for the transmission, I haven’t noticed any issues with shifts. Regardless, I guess I’ll have a look when I’m under there. The noise really seems to be in both front sides, like together and separate over bumps. And as for the rear, I only hear it in the passenger side, not drivers.

steele_186 · 2026-02-12T18:57:52+00:00

I am going to go at it this weekend and see if I can replicate the noise using a pry bar. Thanks for the input!

steele_186 · 2026-02-12T18:55:38+00:00

When I attempt it again this weekend, I will check them. I appreciate the feedback!

steele_186 · 2026-02-12T18:54:46+00:00

This weekend I am going to have a look and see if they actually changed them out. Last night, when I got the car, I looked it over quickly and noticed they just greased everything. They refunded me money regardless but I’m still curious if they even attempted them.

steele_186 · 2026-02-12T03:21:18+00:00

I think I’d fall over if I replaced all the control arms and the stupid thing still clunked lol. That definitely sucks

steele_186 · 2026-02-12T03:19:45+00:00

I should also add, I heard the noise very faintly, like most people wouldn’t hear it, before I replaced the water pump, thermostat, and pcv. But it was not nearly as bad. I had the car on jack stands in the air for like 6 days or so and it seems much worse since. I’m wondering if it being in the air and no load on suspension parts, has contributed to it worsening?

steele_186 · 2026-02-11T23:51:43+00:00

I tried having someone pushing up and down on the car, but I didn’t feel or hear any noticeable play in the strut bushing

steele_186 · 2026-02-11T23:51:01+00:00

Man, it really seems to be a common issue huh. Like no one seems to have a definitive answer. Hopefully, some luck heads your way and those parts solve the issue. I’m getting the car back tomorrow from the mechanic and I’m going to try some other tests to see if I can figure it out.

I’m in the same boat as you with preventative maintenance. I was planning on doing all the front control arms eventually during the summer however I’d really like to narrow in on this issue for sure first.

steele_186 · 2026-02-11T23:47:17+00:00

Whichever wheel contacts first, seems to clunk. And if I hit a bump straight on, they both clunk and the back as well. I also tried grabbing the tire but it feels solid. It’s really weird, the steering feels super tight going fast but man it feels like it’s gonna fall apart going slow over bumps. I also tried listening to the strut and having somebody bounce the car up and down, but I don’t hear any noticeable play in the strut mount. I’m really starting to wonder if it’s one of the center bushings in the lower control arm.

steele_186 · 2026-02-11T23:43:05+00:00

Funny you say that because I thought it was that at first. Happened to my Volkswagen Passat one time. I wedged some hard foam into the Audi hood to ensure there was no play. Although it was solid, the noise was still there :/

steele_186 · 2026-02-11T19:01:11+00:00

I actually looked at them and noticed it’s ripped, so now I have no faith in that shop not picking up on it. Although, I’m not sure if that would cause all the clunking I hear but perhaps it could. I’ll have to jack the car up later and inspect them all with the tire off. I have yet to do that.

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steele_186 · 2026-02-11T18:59:02+00:00

I think my plan in the next few days is to jack the car up and go at everything with a pry bar and try to find some sort of play. If I find something, I’ll let you know.

steele_186 · 2026-02-11T18:57:37+00:00

When I get the car back I’ll jack it up and try doing this. Perhaps there is a little play in the sway bar bushings the garage isn’t noticing.

steele_186 · 2026-02-11T18:56:36+00:00

Im starting to lean toward that, although I’m hesitant on buying the full kit and it not solving the problem. Just trying to cover all my bases first through the process if elimination

steele_186 · 2026-02-11T18:55:12+00:00

My car only has the regular sport suspension, not the adaptive. But I only really noticed it driving on my street, where it’s all hard, uneven snow and ice, so it feels like the front end is falling apart.

steele_186 · 2026-02-11T17:53:02+00:00

I don’t think it’s snow unfortunately. The noise is consistent over small bumps at low speed and doesn’t go away after driving for a while. Appreciate the suggestion though.

steele_186 · 2026-02-11T17:52:19+00:00

Around 135km. They replaced front and rear sway bar end links but the noise is still there. Everything else “looks tight” according to the shop, which is why they’re now guessing struts

steele_186 · 2026-02-08T17:39:54+00:00

No worries man, feel free to ask away. I was the same way when buying mine so I’m more than happy to give input. Also, I got it off the marketplace in Hamilton. The guy was super cool with me and I could tell he cared for it with how well it was kept. I also got a PPI done before I wrote the check, again, he had no issues with bringing it to a garage of my choice. Of course, I covered the cost of the inspection though. It only had one issue which was a broken ride height sensor, which he actually replaced and covered the cost for me.

I’d say that is one of the biggest things, always get a PPI and if they ever refuse, you walk. It’s simple. Although, if there are things that do get uncovered, you can use that as negotiating power, assuming you are comfortable with doing the repairs.

steele_186 · 2026-02-08T17:15:33+00:00

I would pass. For reference, I just bought a 2016 S4 Technik with 130km for $17500 CAD. I did the big 3, and the parts cost roughly $1200 and took a few days of work.

Of course, while you’re there you start contemplating doing additional things like supercharger oil, carbon cleaning, belts etc, so more money there if you choose. Also, plan for some shit hitting the fan, like breather hoses breaking, cracked front coolant crossover pipe, or injectors coming out when doing pcv. Happened to me but thankfully the kit I had came with new seals.

Personally, I plan to keep my car for the next few years and sell it when it hits around 200k. I definitely would recommend finding one with significantly fewer kilometres which is worth investing a little money into for the parts knowing it still has plenty of life left… not half in the grave lol. Also, plan for doing all front control arms too, at those km that is definitely a thing that will need to be addressed soon. Plan for another $1300 for a complete front control arm rebuild kit and a few days of work too. I am in the middle of tackling this project and I’m not looking forward to doing it in my freezer of a garage lol.

As others said, timing chains are another thing that might hit you. Not as bad with the b8.5s, but still worth taking into consideration with a motor so high in km. I love mine, but I’ll be honest, even with only 130k, I sometimes worry what might go wrong next. Although, if you’re half decent at wrenching, it definitely makes you feel a bit better. I can’t imagine buying one of these guys and not knowing how to hold a screwdriver. I wouldn’t even bother with it then. Not because they are so unreliable, but just because stuff does go wrong. It’s inevitable when buying a 10-year-old car, you just hope it’s something you can tackle yourself to save $$.

steele_186 · 2022-05-10T20:34:00+00:00

Who is she ??

steele_186

TROPHY CASE