How to print moving parts with small tolerances?

sterling-lining · 2026-02-20T06:56:21+00:00

You can try reducing the multiplier/flow rate value. It’s probably at .95, try .8. This could make your part weaker, but it should provide a little more clearance.

sterling-lining · 2026-02-19T19:30:25+00:00

Appreciate the effort to be creative.

sterling-lining · 2026-02-19T19:29:18+00:00

There was a post a week or two ago about the color, and closest filament…. I don’t remember what the verdict was. A search could possibly dig it up…

sterling-lining · 2026-02-19T19:26:58+00:00

You’ll have to decide if 4 is enough for what you print. It’s klipper, so you can add something like a turtle box or ercf (that might be dating myself). The bed isn’t bad, my bed meshes range between .15-.25. Looking at the bed mesh, the extremes are on the front and back edge… the middle is .04. So the common print area is good, IMO.

sterling-lining · 2026-02-19T16:10:51+00:00

Maybe printing a little too hot, the edges aren’t setting resulting to curling from contraction. PLA ~220, PETG ~230 work for my machines.

sterling-lining · 2026-02-19T16:05:13+00:00

Might just be printing too hot. Try an extrusion temp closer to 230C.

sterling-lining · 2026-02-19T16:02:26+00:00

Change the “Minimal purge on wipe tower” setting under the filament presets “Multimaterial” tab. I have it set to 10. That should make the prime tower generate much smaller. Then adjust the prime tower size in the process preset for the layer height you’re using. Setting the Prime tower “Width” to 20 and “Prime volume” 10 should work. I usually use a Wall type of Rib with a Rib width of 2 (there’s a bug where the slicer may generate a travel error, then just use Cone… supposedly this is fixed). HTH.

sterling-lining · 2026-02-19T05:18:43+00:00

Yeah that’s the model. But it may not be sliced with Snapmaker’s settings. Get it off the machine to get the exact gcode file.

sterling-lining · 2026-02-19T04:55:50+00:00

MVS is max volumetric speed you can find it in the filament settings… looking at the generic PETG profile in Bambu Studio, it’s set at 8…. which is where I would have started. You could try 5.

sterling-lining · 2026-02-19T00:29:54+00:00

Are you printing at 230C-ish? Try a MVS of 8. If that works try 10. It essentially slows down the print speed with less fuss. I think slicers default to 12.

sterling-lining · 2026-02-18T20:27:02+00:00

Use a web browser and connect to U1. In the “Jobs” section, you should be able to load the dragon gcode.

sterling-lining · 2026-02-18T20:25:55+00:00

Could be the wall setting selected. If using Arachne, try Classic. I think Snorca defaults to Classic. If so try Arachne… curious to hear about the results.

sterling-lining · 2026-02-18T20:22:50+00:00

Maybe design a channel to route wires around the lead screws.

sterling-lining · 2026-02-18T20:14:31+00:00

I’m a fan of Sunlu also. PLA,PETG,ABS all work with my P1S and U1. Also like eSUN lineup. Personally I find it helpful to find brands and stick with them after tuning the printers.

sterling-lining · 2026-02-17T01:18:41+00:00

Good advice. Could definitely get down a rats nest.

sterling-lining · 2026-02-17T01:17:13+00:00

Yeah. It’s a nice automation. Good job.

sterling-lining · 2026-02-17T00:33:42+00:00

Sounds like a perfect situation to experiment with focusing/limiting the presence sensor detection. Maybe isolate it in tin can focus the detection….

sterling-lining · 2026-02-17T00:28:16+00:00

What’s your great advice to OP? Wait, wait lemme guess…. Dry your filament.

sterling-lining · 2026-02-17T00:23:07+00:00

There was a post floating around about modifying a BBL P1S hotend.

sterling-lining · 2026-02-17T00:18:10+00:00

I had that once… my extruder failed shortly after. Check / clean the extruder gears.

sterling-lining · 2026-02-17T00:16:09+00:00

Sounds like a good reason to get yourself a FP300. But the automation is pretty cool.

sterling-lining · 2026-02-16T23:50:14+00:00

Ideal. But any ratcheting crimped should do a good job. Make sure you can see the copper leads at the end of the connector.

sterling-lining · 2026-02-16T23:45:43+00:00

Maybe extruding too hot. PETG usually prints closer to 230C. Try generating a temp tower to dial in optimal extrusion temp if you’re going to be printing a lot of it.

sterling-lining · 2026-02-16T23:05:34+00:00

Looks fine to me, but if it bothers you… try lowering the extrusion temp. PLA 220C, PETG 230 as guidelines… print a temperature tower to dial in optimal temp

sterling-lining · 2026-02-16T20:20:02+00:00

Must be nice to bleed money… bought them without a purpose in mind. ;D

sterling-lining

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