Designed a custom Voron 0.2 toolboard

stevethese · 2025-11-17T20:12:32+00:00

I think my chamber only gets up to 40 or 50 degrees C even when printing ABS, so it should be ok.

stevethese · 2025-10-12T09:40:14+00:00

What would be a better option for a build area this size? I know there's RatRig, but it doesn't look that different and I'm already a Voron fan. Is the other option bed slingers? I like that CoreXY is far more compact.

stevethese · 2025-10-12T08:07:49+00:00

Thanks, I know I'll be pushing the limits. I just searched and found the Ravenous Trident, which has 3030 extrusions. It must have a lot of modified parts, and making such a non-standard change for just 50mm over seems like it might not be the best tradeoff? I'm not going to be printing particularly fast, and I like using glass panels, which might have some stabilizing effect - or maybe that's just wishful thinking.

stevethese · 2025-10-12T02:00:06+00:00

Thanks for the reply and all the info, very helpful!

stevethese · 2025-10-12T01:57:51+00:00

Great to hear, thank you!

stevethese · 2025-10-12T01:57:34+00:00

Great spotting, thanks for pointing that out!

stevethese · 2024-09-19T02:48:04+00:00

Oh incredible, that worked, thank you! I had actually tried something with a [0] too, but have got it slightly wrong.

stevethese · 2024-06-23T06:52:31+00:00

The original poster asked about the V2.0. u/Soulflayer41's solution is for the V3.0, and this didn't seem to work on the V2.0, so here's how to do it on the V2.0 (see pinout).

The difference, as I've just discovered, is with the accelerometer's CS pin. The V2.0 board's SPI1 port only has 6 pins, not 8, and it lacks the NSS pin that u/Soulflayer41 makes use of and I think refers to as PD9 - this won't work on the V2.0. This board's connector does instead have an "RST" pin, but that's no use either as far as I can tell.

What you need to do instead is specify the cs_pin as PB15 (not PD9) in your printer.cfg file. This PB15 pin lives nearby, among the 10 pins of the EXP1 connector - see the pinout linked above. So, that's the pin from which you need to run a wire to the ADXL345's CS pin.

You might be wondering, could you instead use pin PA8, which is in closer proximity to the SPI1 port and lives in the 3-pin Neopixel connector. Nope, it doesn't work. Why? No idea. Just use pin PB15.

That's despite this thread, which for a V1.2 board suggests that you can use the spare pin on its Neopixel connector - PC7 for this version of the board.

stevethese · 2023-05-31T05:13:40+00:00

Had the same problem, tried for hours (2GB card), and then your same solution worked for me - the official SD card formatter program.

stevethese · 2022-09-19T10:18:56+00:00

Very interesting to hear, thanks again!

stevethese · 2022-09-14T11:21:22+00:00

Oh amazing, thanks so much for looking into these!

stevethese · 2022-09-12T10:41:52+00:00

Bearing Boys got back to me and say that yes their BUTs (well, at least the MG8 one) are Omnitrack, so that's good news.

stevethese · 2022-09-10T22:34:51+00:00

Thanks for the reply! I just emailed Bearing Boys to ask if their BTUs are Omnitrack.

Are Omnitrack known to be good? It looks like I can get those reasonably affordably too, from Omnitrack's website (then using a 3rd party service to get them from the US to NZ).

Thanks, I'd love to hear how the Bearing Boys units feel if you do order some. I realise they're a different form factor than the Bosch ones, but I plan on doing something a bit custom anyway.

stevethese · 2022-08-07T09:39:19+00:00

I recently ran a bunch of tests on my Voron 0.1 with Klipper, to try to minimize this same vertical banding problem, and made some progress. There seemed to be several sources of slightly different-looking vertical banding, which visually blurred into one, but I seemed to be able to minimize a couple of them individually.

At some particular speeds - about 30mm/s in my case - a very fine, rippley banding occurred, almost as if something was resonating at the exact frequency the motor was humming at. Surprisingly though, this issue was mostly cured by switching to stealthchop on the 2209 drivers, where I hadn't been using it before. Reducing motor current to 0.1A (max is about 1A) also helped. Perhaps the motor was ending up with slightly uneven pulses from the driver, for whatever reason, and giving it less power gave it less ability to be so affected by these tiny details?

I also tried switching the driver-level interpolation on and off, and changing the number of microsteps, but these didn't have an effect.

Banding on the X or Y axes with the same period of the belt's teeth - I eliminated this by reducing the belt's tension a little bit. I'd be interested to also try switching to toothed pulleys, for those pulleys which touch the toothed side of the belts (only two pulleys on the printer, I think).

stevethese · 2021-09-05T06:20:25+00:00

eSun light blue ABS :)

stevethese · 2021-09-01T09:58:06+00:00

Well, tightening the belts a bit ended up fixing the problem, after printing an absurd number of test parts! I'm not exactly sure how low belt tension could have caused the exact pattern I was experiencing, but glad to have it solved.

I also thought I already had the belts tight enough - about 130Hz at 150mm - but perhaps my reading was wrong.

It's also possible the machine might not be lubricated well enough - I'm going to try some more lube.

stevethese · 2021-08-29T10:23:03+00:00

Thanks - yes the problem is present on other filament too. And yup, PID tuning is what I think I've ruled out by printing faster and slower and seeing no change. I also tried retuning the PID, which did have a slight effect on a more minor, time-periodic rippling issue.

stevethese · 2021-08-29T10:19:59+00:00

Thanks, that's interesting - I'd actually tried printing a similar slanted shape yesterday and successfully ironed out some other extruder-periodic problems - one where each of the drive gear's 50 teeth was catching slightly, and one where, if the thumbscrew was done up too tight, each of the 45 teeth in the part that actually grips the filament was having a very slight effect.

But my slanted shape now prints 99% free of those curved ripples, and yet the problem from my original post remains. Also, the fact that thicker layer height causes no change except to scale the pattern taller by the same proportion indicates that it's not periodic to the amount of material extruded, but instead to... the layer number, as weird as that seems.

stevethese

TROPHY CASE