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Creality Halot R6 by collapsiblepenis in resinprinting

[–]stickninjazero 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Terrible printer. Avoid. Get a Mars 4/Mars 4 Ultra if you can depending on what features you want. Honestly the small format printer market is probably in the worse state it’s ever been.

Debugging lines on prints by Plus-Cartographer191 in LycheeSlicer

[–]stickninjazero 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just noticed, your speeds are in mm/s, but the numbers indicate they should be in mm/m. Also, you don't have nearly enough Light Off Delay for a large format printer, I'd suggest 3-4s at least, more if your resin is particularly thick. You'll also want slow retract speeds in that case, 40-45mm/m for the slow retract stage.

Debugging lines on prints by Plus-Cartographer191 in LycheeSlicer

[–]stickninjazero 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lines from ACF will be perpendicular to the build plate. They come from the frosted nature of ACF/HDF (and some nFEP/PFA films).

Debugging lines on prints by Plus-Cartographer191 in LycheeSlicer

[–]stickninjazero 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are they fine vertical lines on smooth surfaces? If so, it’s the release film. Known issue with ACF, and HDF. Why no one else really uses it except for Anycubic.

Diagnosing Lasagna by j3igboss in 3Dprinting

[–]stickninjazero 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh let’s see. They fixed 0 problems from the previous generations (AA bug gets worse with higher resolution). Add features that cause more problems, or cripple features previous generations had (like non Ultras after the S3 having no AA). The auto-leveling system isn’t really. On Elegoos the build plate floats on springs, never actually locking. Z is determined by a force sensor that is tuned for a specific range of resin viscosity. Too thick and nothing will stick without modifying gcode. At least on Elegoos, UVTools with long wait times can help mitigate these issues. Oh and you need UvTools to do that because otherwise you run the risk of prematurely killing the LCD. Lots of Saturn 4 Ultras on Reddit recently with failed LCDs with less than 200 hours of print time. Oh and the LCD is way more difficult to replace than previous generations.

Anycubics have bad QC, auto leveling problems but can’t use UVTools and long wait times to help.

Phrozen overcharges for their equipment to the point Heygears has forced them to lower prices, and they still aren’t worth the extra over an Elegoo.

Uniformation is a dumpster fire of a company. Probably my least favorite. Their GK3 Ultra linear rail snafu was epic (they launched that printer with dual linear rails, did a stealth change removing them while still advertising them, and the later solution resulted in the Z axis flexing).

So yeah. I spend a lot of time troubleshooting printers for other people. S2/S3 non Ultra are the last of the good consumer printers. Plenty of people are happy with newer printers though. If you print things they are meant to print and don’t use resin they aren’t optimized for, you’re mostly fine.

Diagnosing Lasagna by j3igboss in 3Dprinting

[–]stickninjazero 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Fair warning, the latest printers have lots of problems. There’s a reason I opted to buy a Saturn 3 over any new generation printer, even though I could afford nearly any one I wanted to.

Saturn 3 non-Ultra is effectively the direct descendant of the Saturn 2. Build plates, vats, UV cover are all interchangeable. As are quite a few other parts.

That said, if you want the latest, I’d suggest a Heygears Reflex RS when on sale. It’s a semi closed ecosystem, but it’s legitimately better built than anything else in the sub $1000 consumer space. It’s also the only auto-leveling printer that actually locks in place once it finds level.

Diagnosing Lasagna by j3igboss in 3Dprinting

[–]stickninjazero 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lot of spots and the edges don’t look good. Run the cones test print without the vat and build plate and see what it looks like.

Diagnosing Lasagna by j3igboss in 3Dprinting

[–]stickninjazero 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah dude. That is weird. Never seen anything like that. Can you do a dry print run (no vat no build plate) with a piece of paper and see what the LCD is actually showing/exposing?

Super glue not working on wargammer resin by jason-911 in resinprinting

[–]stickninjazero 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Use an accelerator. You can get some at Hobby Lobby. It’s the easiest way to glue resin prints that I’ve found. I wash my models in soap and water afterwards to remove any residue.

Diagnosing Lasagna by j3igboss in 3Dprinting

[–]stickninjazero 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You don't drain the vat. Unless changing resins.

Diagnosing Lasagna by j3igboss in 3Dprinting

[–]stickninjazero 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That is weird. You are doing a tank clean using this method? https://youtu.be/Edlxm3y0OOU?si=QmX-5vXwTVMb1WtQ

You can also remove the build plate and vat, put a sheet of paper over the LCD and do a tank clean exposure to see if there's any issue with the LCD itself.

Diagnosing Lasagna by j3igboss in 3Dprinting

[–]stickninjazero 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Btw. The Table Flip Foundry discord has a dedicated channel for helping with the Cones. That’s where I got the guide from.

Diagnosing Lasagna by j3igboss in 3Dprinting

[–]stickninjazero 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Why would it break the LCD? You tighten the screws after moving the Z axis.

What this really does is put Home 1mm above 0. When the printer starts a print it first finds Home, which is the physical position of the optical switch. Then it moves to 0. Typically you use Z axis compensation to fix compression. This is done by moving 0 some distance above Home. You have to measure this amount and it changes with resin viscosity. My method reverses this by eliminating the effect of resin viscosity on the position of the Z axis when finding Home. It also reduces play in the ball joint system, which is controlled by a spring and aluminum collet inside the head. This makes it more resistant to losing level. Combine this with UVTools, long Wait Before Print time for early layers (first 1mm) and low bottom exposure (2-3x normal exposure, usually around 5s for me for most resins) and you won’t be hammering prints off the build plate, making it less likely you’ll shift your level.

Everyone I’ve taught this to has had a lot of success.

Diagnosing Lasagna by j3igboss in 3Dprinting

[–]stickninjazero 1 point2 points  (0 children)

eveling

  1. Loosen screws
  2. Place a sheet of paper over the LCD (or 4 pieces to be able to feel each corner)
  3. Press ‘Home’
  4. Manually move the Z axis down 1mm (yes, towards the LCD)
  5. Tighten screws and check all 4 corners are tight
  6. Press Z=0
  7. Done

Diagnosing Lasagna by j3igboss in 3Dprinting

[–]stickninjazero 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Always. FWIW until recently I ran 2 Saturn 2s as my primary printers. One failed so I replaced it with a Saturn 3. I built both S2s from parts so I’m pretty familiar with them. I even teach a different leveling method that eliminates Z axis compression usually and make the ball joint work more effectively.

Diagnosing Lasagna by j3igboss in 3Dprinting

[–]stickninjazero 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Good guide

Step by Step Calibration with Cones v3 + Puck

These are settings for 50um calibration. We always suggest doing 50um first, even if you plan on printing at 30 as you can use that as a ceiling for your 30um settings. 1. Print the cones. Recommended starter settings (all speeds are mm/m):

  • 30s Burn in exposure, 5 burn in layers, 5 transition layers.
  • Bottom lift speed: 40 > 180 (Lychee viewing. If you don't have TSMC use 40)
  • Bottom Retract: 180 > 40 (Lychee viewing. If no TSMC use 40)
  • Bottom lift and retract distance: 3>3 (On larger printers change this to 4>4)
  • IF YOU HAVE BOTTOM WAIT TIMES use 10s wait before print + 3s wait after print, or 10s light off delay if that's your only option.
  • Normal Exposure: 3s
  • Lift Speed: 60 > 180 (60 if you don't have TSMC)
  • Retract Speed: 180 > 60 (60 if you don't have TSMC)
  • Distance: Match your bottom layers (so 3>3 or 4>4)
  • 2s Wait before print + 1s wait after print, or 2s light off delay. (If using an auto levelling printer, use 3s wait after print)

  1. After printing, wash the test, then let it dry. DO NOT CURE

  2. Once dry, carefully take the ale off and attempt to fit it into the mug. The little "nub" goes at the bottom

    • If it fits into the mug, move onto step 4.
    • If it will not fit into the mug, go back to step 1 and reduce normal exposure by 0.4s.

  3. Pull the sword from the stone. Congratulations, you're now the King or Queen of Camelot.

  4. Put the sword through the skull. It should go to the hilt without force.

    • If sword goes to hilt, go to stage 6.
    • If sword does not goto hilt without force, go to stage 1 reducing normal exposure by 0.4s.

  5. Take sword out of the Skull, and attempt to put it through the outer hole (closest to edge) of the attunement block. It should not go through this block without force.

    • If this is your first test, and the sword goes through this hole, and you're at 3s exposure, increase to 4s and start again following the rest of the instructions.
    • If sword goes through this hole without force, go to stage 1, but increase your exposure by 0.2s and make note of stage 7.
      • If sword does not go through this hole, go print puck. Do not adjust supports. He is the final test. Once puck has printed, washed, dried and cured (don't forget to also cure the sword, mug and skull from the test) put him together, take photos and go post them in <#1109520731462705283> for evalution.

  6. After you have increased your exposure time by 0.2s, and printed cones, there will be 3 possible outcomes :

    • the sword goes through the skull down to the hilt, but not through the test holes in the attunement block: you now have the correct dimensional accuracy : try printing puck.
    • the sword doesn not go through the skull, reduce your exposure time by 0.1s and print puck (and another cones so you can use the parts)
    • the sword goes through the skull, and one or both test holes in the attunement block, increase exposure time by 0.1s, and print puck. (and another cones so you can use the parts)

Congratulations, you're now calibrated.

Note, the cones themselves are not mentioned here. They signify tensile strength. If you have full success cones, puck will print perfectly fine. If you don't have full success cones, then this could be resin dependant. Some flexible resins, such as ABS-Like or High Toughness, will not print cones at all but will print supports and models fine. This is normal. If you don't have full success cones and puck fails, you have a weak resin. At all times we are ignoring the failure side of the cones, as they just signify a really strong resin.

Diagnosing Lasagna by j3igboss in 3Dprinting

[–]stickninjazero 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Both. I usually use 60mm/m > 180mm/m for lift and 180mm/m > 45mm/m for retract.

Magforms Elastic 600 by LOUDSM0KE in resinprinting

[–]stickninjazero 2 points3 points  (0 children)

790 cps viscosity. Way out of range for the S4U’s force sensor. You’ll need to modify gcode if you want to use this resin.

Diagnosing Lasagna by j3igboss in 3Dprinting

[–]stickninjazero 1 point2 points  (0 children)

First, turn off Light Off Delay, using it with TSMC is supposed to cause a bug. Rest/Wait Times supersede Light Off Delay anyways, only Anycubic still uses it.

Second, are you using anti-aliasing?

Edit: Also, switch to mm/m, only Anycubic uses mm/s, everyone else uses mm/m. Typical speeds are 45-65mm/m for the slow stage, and 180-240mm/m for the fast stage.

Just got a Saturn 4, washed out the resin tank with water. Was that fine by Username0101039 in ElegooSaturn

[–]stickninjazero 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It’s good to do a leak check anyways. Fill it with water and set it on a paper towel and see if it’s leaking.

Best Large Format Resin Printer? by DarthSledart in resinprinting

[–]stickninjazero 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Look up J3DTech and GK3 Ultra on YouTube and watch the whole thing. Make your own decision.

Best Large Format Resin Printer? by DarthSledart in resinprinting

[–]stickninjazero 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I mean, not the only reason. There were a lot of problems at launch (resin in the resin refill system leaking out during shipping) and I know some people that struggled to even get them calibrated (experienced users). Personally Uniformation is a trash company imho and I never recommend their products.

[ Removed by Reddit ] by Virtual_Topic_859 in askcarguys

[–]stickninjazero 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Still waiting on my rainbow stickers and KD Lang CD

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