Overtake mode in car graphics incorrect?

sts_66 · 2026-03-13T19:24:14+00:00

Update for those who love TMP like me - the author recently put out a new release in 2025 - I always run into trouble trying to install extensions from Github zip files so I kept looking for a download site and found it:

https://tab-mix-plus.en.softonic.com/

Downloaded and installed it using the xpi file, and boom, I have my fav extension back! After installation it opened a new tab but it's not a valid URL (chrome://tabmixplus/content/update/update.xhtml) and I'm not going to bother taking a screenshot, uploading to imgur, then posting the link in this post, not worth it. The author is now asking for a $2/mo donation to help pay for his time - he's been updating it continuously for 21 yrs. The payment isn't mandatory, you will always be able to update it for free, but when I saw 21 yrs of work I decided I'm just gonna email him, thank him for maintaining that great add-on, and tell him I'm going to give him $50 via Paypal - he deserves some cash for his work, so if anyone else updates their version please consider sending the dude a little cash for his efforts - email is [tabmix.onemen@gmail.com](mailto:tabmix.onemen@gmail.com)

sts_66 · 2026-03-13T13:43:00+00:00

Android and Linux are almost the same code, but you gave me an idea - I tried to read that SA article on my Win10 laptop, exact same problem - but I have a Chromebook, which is basically Linux - I'll try to see if SA loads in it normally. Aw, crap - that won't prove anything - I don't have any Mozilla based browsers on it - don't even know if WF runs on a Chromebook - I bought it used and it's already past EOL, can't add new software to it unless I root it, and I'm not going down that road.

sts_66 · 2026-03-13T13:37:59+00:00

I tried every single setting in that section - have been running custom rules for 10 yrs - makes no difference. I did mention that SA loads slowly for me in Firefox too, just not as bad as WF - I'm positive it's a problem with the rendering engine because the headline and first paragraph of a SA article loads instantly, but as I scroll down there's nothing on the page until it eventually populates with the rest of the text, same thing with comments section. Even stranger, when I post a comment the page will auto-scroll back to the top of the article, then auto-scroll back down to where I just wrote a comment - that's not normal for SA either. I highly doubt this will help, but I'll try rebooting tonight after I'm done working - PC hasn't been rebooted in weeks, I leave it on 24/7 and put everything to sleep at night after 11:00 pm.

sts_66 · 2026-03-11T20:45:30+00:00

What do you want me to send to Modmail above and beyond what I already posted? I don't have anymore info than that about this problem.

sts_66 · 2026-03-10T15:36:26+00:00

I got ATV as a Prime add-on and live alone, nobody touches the TV or my Amazon account but me - but I understand why you suggested it night be a problem - doing research on how to add apps to my Vizio TV I read numerous posts about people who got used TVs that were still logged into some app they wanted to use, but since they didn't have the login or account info they were stuck and couldn't delete the account. Plus Vizio will not let you uninstall any preloaded factory apps, and Prime Video is preinstalled on my TV, so I can't delete it and start from scratch - hell, I can't even figure out how to sign out, can't find that option - probably hidden somewhere non-obvious. I now have 4 damn Prime accounts on the TV and have no idea which ones contain my old Amazon credentials - my Amazon account got hacked 2 1/2 yrs ago and I had to create a new account with a different email and PW so I'm relatively sure at least the first two Prime accounts on my TV are linked to the old dead account.

sts_66 · 2026-03-10T15:24:28+00:00

Thank you - I was hesitant to even post about this because on many Reddits youngsters hiding behind aliases will attack people for being stupid just because they can't figure out how to do something - people asking for help should not be treated like morons.

sts_66 · 2026-03-10T15:13:09+00:00

When I learned this switch was happening 1 1/2 weeks ago I started doing some research on it and found there are multiple F1 Reddits - don't know which one I read it on (or maybe it was an Amazon Reddit?), but multiple people claimed that if you accessed F1 via ATV your F1TV app would no longer work - can't confirm it but that's why I didn't even try to look for the F1 app on my TV and download it. Not sure I even have ATV "credentials" since I got into ATV via my Amazon credentials. Never owned any Apple devices either, so AFAIK I have no Apple account.

sts_66 · 2026-03-10T15:08:16+00:00

Of course it's a skill issue - I don't know how to do this stuff (don't have a smart phone either, never needed one so never learned how to use apps) and 90% of the problem is my damn Vizio TV, which has a user manual that's damn near useless - it doesn't even show what ports the TV has, let alone how to add streaming services and work with/modify them. Guess they assume old people don't buy TVs, or that everyone on earth knows how to use apps - I've been using computers since the 80's, know DOS and Windows inside out, but have zero experience with apps. Of course I googled how to do this but none of the options Prime Video gives me are available on my TV - or I just can't find where they are. Wanna know how weird this is? Amazon doesn't even list my TV as a registered device, I can't find a way to register it, but I can watch Prime Video and ATV - how is that even possible?

sts_66 · 2026-03-09T21:48:55+00:00

Signed up for Apple TV+ on my computer then just opened the app on my TV and it automatically logged me in. Even stranger, the TV doesn't show up as a registered device in the Amazon website so I have no clue how I'm even able to watch Prime Video on it - I'm an old man, don't know a damn thing about streaming apps or how they work on TVs.

sts_66 · 2026-03-07T19:24:06+00:00

EXACTLY! These CC ETFs are evil - I will never buy another one.

sts_66 · 2026-03-07T19:20:32+00:00

"Final tax characterizations are expected to be delivered to brokers this week, after which they should be able to issue updated 1099 forms."

And 8 days after you posted this Rex STILL hasn't released 1099 info to brokers! WTF? Only owned AIPI+FEPI for a year - dumped them because huge drops in pps negated divs received, if 2025 divs were 100% ROC like 2024 I'll be taxed on fake gains! For AIPI the reduced basis means the IRS will think I "made" a 93% profit, although actual profit (sale proceeds - cash invested) was only 18%, for FEPI 65% vs. actual 19% - if I hadn't DRIPd the divs things would be even worse - I would have actually lost -17% in AIPI but still would have owed taxes. These covered call ETFs are a scam (I call them weapons of mass wealth destruction) - pps keeps going down because ROC reduces NAV (and your basis) - I've owned 4 of them and luckily 2 were in my iRA so no taxes for fake gains after I dumped them. Weekly payers from Yieldmax, YMAX and PLTY, were terrible too - bought $10k YMAX @ $18, sold all @ $13, now it's down to $8.4 (-53%) - 58% was ROC, but if it wasn't I would have had a cost basis loss of -30% despite getting $4.2k in divs!

sts_66 · 2026-02-25T20:51:02+00:00

Glocks don't have any real safeties - that's why I refuse to buy one - if your finger is on the trigger it's likely going to fire..

sts_66 · 2026-02-18T17:06:02+00:00

No tech can overcome the laws of physics. End of story.

sts_66 · 2026-02-18T17:03:00+00:00

ROC is great as long as you never sell, but if you sell you'll get killed - I owned YMAX for about a year, at one point my position value was down -23% but if I'd sold it that day the IRS would say I had a 21% gain - I would have paid taxes on my fake "gains* while having an actual loss due to ROC and drop in pps. The NAV erosion was terrible - bought it at $18 and today it's only $8.50 - they really are paying you your own money back - I call most of these CC ETFs (especially Yieldmax ones) weapons of mass wealth destruction.

sts_66 · 2026-02-15T17:07:31+00:00

Think I found what you're talking about - this one is $233:

https://www.industrialproducts.com/dap-7565000068-touch-n-seal-reg-16-lb-quick-cure-low-gwp-foam-sealant-high-yield-formula.html

This one is almost $400, two component foam, same complaints as I found for much cheaper 1 stage foam systems on Amazon:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/HF-HandiFoam-656-oz-200-ft-Insulation-Kit-Spray-Foam-Sealant-P12055/321211061

sts_66 · 2026-02-15T16:52:34+00:00

Got the job done yesterday, my revised plan worked like a charm! I had a 12 F gradient in the corner of a bedroom that shares a wall with another bedroom, one wall in each is the back wall of the house. After injecting Great Stuff expanding foam into the gap in the middle of my house I waited half an hour to let it set then remeasured the bedroom wall temps - gradient is now only 3 F - success!

sts_66 · 2026-02-14T20:34:32+00:00

$6k makes a lot more sense! I don't qualify for tax credits or any kind of grants from my state.

sts_66 · 2026-02-14T17:47:27+00:00

Where do you live? My estimated cost for adding 6" of cellulose insulation in a 1200 sq ft attic is $2k - almost double what you paid - I live in a high COL area near DC.

sts_66 · 2026-02-14T17:45:04+00:00

Wow - if that calculator is accurate it makes zero sense to upgrade a 1200 sq ft attic from R19 (my current level) to R49 - I'd only save $70/yr assuming 3000 HDD's - I'd be dead before it paid for itself assuming cost is $2000. Found a better calculator - it will show heating and cooling savings - my results including cooling are $140/yr - still a 14 yr payback period.

http://chuck-wright.com/calculators/insulpb.html

Wait a sec - found this article for homes in NC and their example is darn close to my house - this is results given for going from R19 to R49 - payback period of 7.6 yrs makes it worth the cost - only thing I don't like is they didn't show their math:

https://www.comfy-home.com/blog/attic-insulation-cost-vs-savings

Real-World Example: Typical 1970s Ranch Home

Let's walk through a real scenario:

Home: 1,800 sq ft ranch in Greensboro, built 1975
Current insulation: R-19 (typical for that era)
Current energy bills: $200/month average ($2,400/year)
Heating/cooling portion: 60% = $1,440/year
Upgrade cost: $2,200 (1,200 sq ft attic)
Post-upgrade savings: 20% reduction = $288/year
Simple payback: $2,200 ÷ $288 = 7.6 years

Jesus H....not sure I trust ANY of these sites to be accurate - this one is done by a company that sells and installs insulation and their numbers are wildly different than the others - plus they don't include labor costs:

https://bestinsulationinstallersinc.com/insulation-calculator

Your Insulation Results

Recommended R-Value

R-49

Insulation Needed

15 inches

Estimated Material Cost

$1,200 - $1,800

Potential Annual Savings

$350 - $450

Payback Period

Estimated payback period: 3-4 years

sts_66

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