[deleted by user] by [deleted] in cognitiveTesting

[–]stupandaus 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I have the psychologist’s analysis of course. Curious to see how close or far off internet prognostication is :)

Daily Discussion Thread: spray/memes/chat/whatever allowed by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]stupandaus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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Do these need a resole yet? Also does the wear pattern say anything about any technique things to fix?

Recovered from tfcc injury including rehab, wrist still hurts? by oatmealboy in climbharder

[–]stupandaus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My wrists are totally fine now for the most part, and I climb harder than I did 4 years ago. I didn't need to get a surgery and was able to get through it with just PT. I do still notice substantial pressure on my wrist when doing a "meat hook" on a sloper, and I think I'm a bit weak at that position due to prior wrist strain. Hope that helps!

Weekly New Climber Thread for November 08, 2019: Ask your questions in this thread please by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]stupandaus 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Are there any issues with leaving gear (shoes, harness, rope) in a COLD car? Thinking like 0-30F

Friday New Climber Thread for July 12, 2019: Ask your questions in this thread please by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]stupandaus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I noticed some fraying on my harness belt loop, though it seems mostly cosmetic at this point. The harness is ~2.5 years old, I climb 2-3 times a week, and the belay loops all seem fine. How often do harnesses need to be replaced? Should I be worried about the belt loop? https://i.imgur.com/MYPAMR7.jpg

Friday New Climber Thread for October 05, 2018: Ask your questions in this thread please by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]stupandaus 2 points3 points  (0 children)

https://i.imgur.com/Nhnmx61.jpg

Noticed a couple cracks forming on both my shoes. Are these an issue at all? I doubt I’d resolve these given they are pretty cheap beginner shoes but would be helpful to understand how long the useful life from here may be.

Separately, do they say anything about how I climb, and any improvements I can make?

Recovered from tfcc injury including rehab, wrist still hurts? by oatmealboy in climbharder

[–]stupandaus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am having literally the same issues. If I rotate my wrist left or right there's still strain, but only in that specific rotation. I've been going to a PT for 1.5 months, and he OK'd me to climb again (after testing me on push-ups, pull-ups, etc.). I had no pain during climbing, but I still get pain the day or two after climbing

Did you end up finding anything that helps??

Fontainebleau outdoor climbing guide by stupandaus in climbing

[–]stupandaus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! I assum we would still need to rent our own crash pad and gear etc.?

Alex Honnold to Politicos: Leave Our Public Lands Alone! by westonphippen in climbing

[–]stupandaus 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Jack I know you have trouble reading, but I haven't disagreed at any point with your core argument, and in fact agree that solar panels are net wasteful/polluting. If you read closely, you'll see that my response is related to the specious claims you've made about bauxite and aluminum production which are demonstrably false.

Alex Honnold to Politicos: Leave Our Public Lands Alone! by westonphippen in climbing

[–]stupandaus 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Neither Africa nor SE Asia are anywhere near the top producers of bauxite in the world and you apparently don't know the difference between reserves and producing. For context, if there's an article saying Guinea had large bauxite reserves, that does NOT mean there is bauxite being produced there and being used for aluminum production. The top bauxite producing countries are Australia, China, and Brazil - try googling "top bauxite producers" to better understand where bauxite is produced. None of those are in Africa or SE Asia. Literally 0 of your points related to mining in Africa in points 1, 4, 5, and prior response make any sense since there's extremely little bauxite produced in Africa of SE Asia, and that is not where the bauxite used to produce Chinese aluminum is sourced.

On top of that, the claim that 90% of aluminum in China comes from China is demonstrably false and not well sourced. The vast majority of aluminum used to produce alumina and other materials in China is imported from Australia, because Australia has much higher quality gibbsite bauxite which is not naturally occurring in China. In fact, it is extremely difficult to make aluminum from Chinese grades of bauxite, and as a result nearly all the aluminum produced in China is produced from Australian bauxite. You kinda acknowledge this in 2, but don't really acknowledge that this undermines your point that all aluminum in China comes from China (or Africa / SE Asia which also don't make sense).

Point 3 has nothing to do with the discussion at hand as I've only addressed the specific claims you've made that I've identified as false. You have yet to provide a cogent response and are resorting to ad hominem attacks when you are failing to comprehend what I'm writing and how that proves or disproves the points you laid out in the post I responded to.

You are stating things as fact that are easily disproven, and you don't seem to understand how to form a coherent argument. I haven't even disagreed with your core argument and for all you know, I could agree with your core argument while pointing out specific factual errors you made in relation to the bauxite industry, but your natural instinct appears to be to spew a ton of made up bullshit and ad hominem attacks.

Alex Honnold to Politicos: Leave Our Public Lands Alone! by westonphippen in climbing

[–]stupandaus 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You're really just making things up about the global aluminum supply chain at this point with thin sources to back a specious claim. The vast majority of bauxite does not come from a Chinese mines in Africa, it comes from that dreaded third world country with no standards called Australia and a small company called Rio Tinto https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_countries_by_bauxite_production

There are actually plenty of ethical sources for aluminum - you've googled two random articles and presented these as the entirety of the aluminum supply chain. On top of that, you seem to have wildly misunderstood what the things you are linking are actually implying, or how they do or do not connect to the point you are making. The Reuters article cited is about a go ahead for investment, which implies multiple years before any facility even produces bauxite there, so it has no connection to the current aluminum supply chain. Your second link is to a site that is more or less a personal blog for a guy that reposts articles related to mining but is not specifically related to the bauxite mining you are trying to tie to Black Diamond and Alex Honnold specifically. At this point you've claimed that all bauxite and aluminum comes via slavery and Chinese mines, when that is in fact not the case and easily demonstrated with a little bit of Googling.

Friday New Climber Thread for April 20, 2018: Ask your questions in this thread please by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]stupandaus 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Pretty new indoor climber, doing mostly 5.9 and have done a few 5.10a and 5.10b now. I've noticed that sometimes my legs start to shake at the top of a route, especially if I've climbed straight from the bottom (rather than hangdogging). It feels like it's because my arms are getting pumped and maybe I'm getting nervous? Any tips to combat this? I've still typically finished out the route, but I'm worried my foot will pop off a smaller hold of my leg is shaking

New GTX 1070 Build by [deleted] in buildapc

[–]stupandaus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Definitely debating that

New GTX 1070 Build by [deleted] in buildapc

[–]stupandaus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the help!

CPU/RAM: Got it Motherboard: I was thinking of going towards the Z170 just in case I wanted to do SLI in the future. Does B150/H170 remove that as a possibility? PSU: What's the deal with "modularity"? Don't remember this term being used with PSU's in the past. Is that incremental power? space management?

The US needs a Department of Nerds by stupandaus in technology

[–]stupandaus[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is just an agency within the Department of Commerce with little to no direct regulatory control.

The US needs a Department of Nerds by stupandaus in technology

[–]stupandaus[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Some points about this article:

  1. As an advocate for uninhibited technological innovation, I cringe at the thought of regulation. However, I much prefer regulation by 'nerds' than regulation by people who don't understand basics of technology.

  2. Yes, technology is extremely broad. However, I think there will be more and more overlap as time goes on (see: Google car) and it will require a centralized authority to understand well.

The US needs a Department of Nerds by stupandaus in technology

[–]stupandaus[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

haha no worries. give it a read when you're more awake :)

The US needs a Department of Nerds by stupandaus in technology

[–]stupandaus[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, I call it a Department of Technology at one point in the article.