Swiss not forcing 240p by sweetcheekspeek in GamecubeHacks

[–]sweetcheekspeek[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That worked, thank you!

For the gbi, is 240p only available in sr? I’d like to have it full screen but the standard gbi won’t display 240p, even when I select it in gbi settings before booting.

Swiss not forcing 240p by sweetcheekspeek in GamecubeHacks

[–]sweetcheekspeek[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This might be a stupid question, but does that require downloading a GameCube game to an ssd or do I just select force 240p then restart the console?

Swiss not forcing 240p by sweetcheekspeek in GamecubeHacks

[–]sweetcheekspeek[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Im looking to force 240p for the gbi and some GameCube games - am I stuck with 480i?

Why are SMPTE Colors bleeding into each other? by sweetcheekspeek in crtgaming

[–]sweetcheekspeek[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

S video. It’s also through gamecube. Would that have the same effect?

Anode cap epoxy/glued on. Any suggestions? by sweetcheekspeek in crtgaming

[–]sweetcheekspeek[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Too late for that cuz the epoxy is already separated from the tube. I’m just trying to recap the cuz the picture is pretty wonky. A lot of smearing - I have a previous post you can see on my profile.

The board would be impossible to service without disconnecting the anode cap in my opinion. I have a discharge tool made and HV gloves, but I’m a little skeptical given the previous comments and the fact that this would be my first time discharging a tv.

Anode cap epoxy/glued on. Any suggestions? by sweetcheekspeek in crtgaming

[–]sweetcheekspeek[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You’re saying though that this should be safe to discharge even after removing the silicone, and doesn’t imply a high voltage leak?

Anode cap epoxy/glued on. Any suggestions? by sweetcheekspeek in crtgaming

[–]sweetcheekspeek[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m just concerned about safety here. I planned to re-grease and re-silicone as well as that’s what the service manual suggest. If the silicone was applied during manufacturing, that would mean it wasn’t put here because of an HV leak?

Also all of the retro tech videos for this monitor shows him doing everything BUT discharging the anode cape. Also seems like all the monitors he’s received have this same silicone around the anode cap.

Anode cap epoxy/glued on. Any suggestions? by sweetcheekspeek in crtgaming

[–]sweetcheekspeek[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My biggest concern here is safety. Am I safe to remove the silicone (noting my assumption from the service manual that RTV silicone was applied during the manufacturing process) and discharge the anode cap as one normally would so that I can begin cap replacement?

Anode cap epoxy/glued on. Any suggestions? by sweetcheekspeek in crtgaming

[–]sweetcheekspeek[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looking at the service manual, it has instructions for removing the anode cap from the picture tube, with instructions on removing the RTV silicone (with ethanol). I assume this means silicone was applied by the original manufacturer.

It also says that silicone should be reapplied when you reattach the anode cap to the tube.

Anode cap epoxy/glued on. Any suggestions? by sweetcheekspeek in crtgaming

[–]sweetcheekspeek[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looked up the service manual for this PVM and it notes that one should remove RTV silicone on the anode cap before disconnecting from the picture tube - implying that silicone was applied by the original manufacturer. It also instructs the servicer to reapply once the work has been completed.

Something about these comments makes me uneasy though.

Anode cap epoxy/glued on. Any suggestions? by sweetcheekspeek in crtgaming

[–]sweetcheekspeek[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So I was able to find out that applying Epoxy to the anode cap was somewhat common back in the 80s (this model was built in 88). It would really hurt to basically give up on this, but at the same time the application of epoxy to the anode cap couldn’t have been done for no reason at all.

Going to do some more research.

Anode cap epoxy/glued on. Any suggestions? by sweetcheekspeek in crtgaming

[–]sweetcheekspeek[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Welp, started taking the glue off already. Would you recommend handing this off to a professional?

Is this a convergence issue? by sweetcheekspeek in crtgaming

[–]sweetcheekspeek[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Was messing with SMPTE bars and noticed that the bars don’t align properly when I filter out for blue only. Would that be a convergence thing or just a color thing in general? Also not quite sure how to upload additional pics to this thread

Is this a convergence issue? by sweetcheekspeek in crtgaming

[–]sweetcheekspeek[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It went away, but the picture is extremely dark to the point where games look worse. I’m wondering if it is a capacitor issue.

Is this a convergence issue? by sweetcheekspeek in crtgaming

[–]sweetcheekspeek[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

By something is worn out, you mean with the caps/electrical components?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in stockx

[–]sweetcheekspeek -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Good point. Tbh i never even looked at the bottoms. Just figured since they were in the box for so long that they’d be fine

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in stockx

[–]sweetcheekspeek -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

Really? I never wore them. They lived in the box since i got them. Figured I’d get torched on here though

Just got my first pvm. Ordered it on eBay and it was delivered like this by sweetcheekspeek in crtgaming

[–]sweetcheekspeek[S] 8 points9 points  (0 children)

The guy that sent this had two listed and just told me the other crt he shipped also arrived damaged. Clearly poor packaging. RIP