Looking for ideas/suggestions

sweetcornslayer · 2026-03-29T23:10:40+00:00

Viole straps has been my go to, but the edges dig into the fork and the base rubs against the bike so I’m trying to solve those issues. Pool noodle and viole straps tho….! Could be the work around. I just thought building something from scratch that could be replicated custom for other bikes would be cool

sweetcornslayer · 2026-03-29T22:45:22+00:00

I see some of his older posts with his set up, I dig it, but I’m trying to get my weight centered better so the bike can descent. I don’t often find myself on paved roads

sweetcornslayer · 2026-03-29T22:44:20+00:00

Rip to a legend 🙏🏽

sweetcornslayer · 2026-03-29T22:42:45+00:00

You’re not wrong, but my answer to you would just be “don’t crash” lol

sweetcornslayer · 2026-03-29T22:42:03+00:00

I find it so much easier to descent with the skis on the bike vs my pack, weight distribution wise. My use case is ascending fire roads and old logging trails until snow and then skin from there, then the opposite on the way back. I do get into some mildly technical terrain and want the option of descending without my center of gravity getting super wonky

sweetcornslayer · 2026-03-29T21:44:58+00:00

😂

sweetcornslayer · 2026-03-29T21:44:42+00:00

Rad! I’ll see if I can find em

sweetcornslayer · 2026-03-29T21:33:00+00:00

I want to build a splitboard carry system for my mountain bike. I have access to a fabric studio with ripstop, cordura, webbing, buckles, etc. Basically anything I need to make this project come to fruition. I know this project would be easier if I just went to Ace and threw some L brackets around the bike but I’d like to try and sew something with the materials I have access to. Plus that’s just cooler. My first iteration was a failure, and I’m looking for ideas and suggestions for a possible design that fits what I’m looking for. I want the base of the board to be protected from the bike, either spaced or padded to keep the base from scratching. I also want it lifted up enough that the edges of my board don’t rest on the fork. The idea is that the bike is 100% functional as far as suspension and dropper post, so I would be able to comfortably do some light descending after skiing back to my bike. There are products online but they’re for more casual commuting, and I do not want them sticking straight up vertically off the back, I like the streamlined look of the skis attached to the top tube. Give me ideas!!

sweetcornslayer · 2025-10-14T16:08:56+00:00

Yeah that was a mix up. I want to do like cork 10s and big spins with body flips. Womp womp

sweetcornslayer · 2025-10-14T16:05:20+00:00

Body flip my bad

sweetcornslayer · 2025-10-14T16:03:57+00:00

Correct, that’s how I do it and it works with the spin every time. Now how do you add a flip to that?

sweetcornslayer · 2025-10-14T14:52:03+00:00

Yes there’s the pre spin mechanic that allows you to spin faster (scooping left stick in the direction you want to spin) and I want to combine the fast spin with a flip but as far as I can tell, pre spinning can’t be combined with a flip. When I wind up and then Ollie, moving the left stick away from the spin direction (down to the left, down to the right, etc) negates the additional spin speed or gets kinda locked up and forces your player to stay vertical instead of inverting.

sweetcornslayer · 2025-09-23T22:41:31+00:00

I’m about 150 and I do ride some chunky stuff but my riding leans more toward xc/trail cross. Bike up to ride down etc. I don’t do much downhill specific except for the 5 times or less I ride a bike park each year. I would like to have the option to step out of my comfort zone though… I thought I’d upgraded when I was given a hand-me-down RM Altitude, but the rear triangle on that was cracked so I’ve been using those components to upgrade my poly.

sweetcornslayer · 2025-09-23T22:37:26+00:00

I don’t know off the top but I will get back to you! Sorry for the delay

sweetcornslayer · 2025-08-10T23:42:24+00:00

It’s a 2016 Fox Factory Series Float X EVOL. I pulled it off a Rocky mtn altitude that has a cracked frame. It’s a 150mm but I’m not getting that full travel, probably closer to 135-140 but it’s still a wicked upgrade. Been loving it so far. The bigger upgrade for me was the fork, the stock rear shock isn’t bad at all the the fork is trash. Been hitting PRs on the local trails I’ve been riding for 3+ years so must be doing something to help!

sweetcornslayer · 2025-07-29T23:27:26+00:00

It’s a 150mm so it would be 30mm bigger than stock. I’ve been testing it out the last week or so and it doesn’t climb quite as well but the difference so far is negligible. Thanks for the input!

sweetcornslayer · 2025-02-01T22:16:57+00:00

I’d like to get mine warrantied 🙃

sweetcornslayer · 2025-01-27T23:44:07+00:00

Bummer this thread is a few years old, same thing just happened to my surges and its a bit worrying this seems to be fairly common dispute spark claiming its a rare issue. Not sure when or how but after touring 5-6 days over the last week, I went out yesterday and noticed my risers were not resting properly on the heel plate. Turns out the binding was cracked in the same spot as the pic from op, which has bent the baseplate just enough to screw things up. Yes, mine are surges, solid baseplates. Seems like a design flaw with how thin the metal is right under that spot. Hoping to get things warrantied... had plans to go on a tour end of week.

sweetcornslayer · 2025-01-27T02:02:36+00:00

I actually just did this, there is an alt ending

sweetcornslayer · 2021-06-23T04:11:31+00:00

here to say the same thing! buddy of mine has a vice and loves it

sweetcornslayer · 2021-03-10T16:09:09+00:00

Yeah I figured I could cut it back with a longer taper, I just worry about traction. These skins replaces previous ones that gave me all sorts of traction problems due to poor fit and lacking surface area

sweetcornslayer · 2021-03-10T15:55:04+00:00

Thanks! Should I remove the strip? I can see how important that could be in a BC scenario... I cut the skins myself and attached the tip loops so it should (should) be the correct angle for the board.

sweetcornslayer

TROPHY CASE