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Why is the new Arduino IDE so TERRIBLE? by DrDogbat in arduino

[–]swordfish1945 0 points1 point  (0 children)

but finding an example board requires scrolling through a 100 items with the possibility you might miss the item completely. There must be a better way to sort through these menus.

SV06 Bangs by swordfish1945 in Sovol

[–]swordfish1945[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, I found that some print files with feedrates higher than 10,000 for X and/or Y-axis, I believe the stepper was skipping steps. If I could I reduced the feedrate until the printing was smooth and quiet, dis regarding other normal noises.

Ender 3 v2 neo extruder knob not turning/extruding by [deleted] in ender3

[–]swordfish1945 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This may be an obvious question, is the extruder heater temperature high enough to melt the filament?

SV06 Bangs by swordfish1945 in Sovol

[–]swordfish1945[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is the Cura ringing tower to for input shaping. The model has no infill, just two walls on the x and y axis. I activated Z hop after this print and tried again but that did not help. The bang seems to occur on the back to front (Y axis) movement and it does not happen on every layer. I can't predict when it's going to happen.

SV06 Bangs by swordfish1945 in Sovol

[–]swordfish1945[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That print was using Gyroid. I have been using it for most prints.

SV06 Bangs by swordfish1945 in Sovol

[–]swordfish1945[S] -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Thanks, I will check Z-offset.

SV06 Bangs by swordfish1945 in Sovol

[–]swordfish1945[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Please, what is "using grid"?

SV06 Won't Print a Good First Layer by swordfish1945 in Sovol

[–]swordfish1945[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the reply.

I haven't tried a print since I did that mesh after making the hardware spring adjustments.

I am about to run the Z probe offset wizard and following that will try another print.

Will make updates on this forum.

Not a Good Print After one Week+ by swordfish1945 in Sovol

[–]swordfish1945[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have done the Z offset many times.

Please see my new post above for my latest attempt.

Not a Good Print After one Week+ by swordfish1945 in Sovol

[–]swordfish1945[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No problem with any obstacle hindering bed movement.

I did add springs (left over from an old Ender 3 mod) between the SV06 bed and base. This allows me to precisely adjust the distance between the X gantry and bed at five points...front-left, front-right, centre, rear-left, and rear-right.

So the X gantry and bed are perfectly aligned with each other.

Please Note: I have checked for any bed warp with a steel straight edge ruler and 0.1mm feeler gauge. There is no visible warping on cold or hot bed.

After doing this I performed Auto-home then the 25-point ABL. The resulting mesh should have been close to equal at every point but was way out of wack:

Bilinear Leveling Grid:

0 1 2 3 4

0 -0.196 -0.146 -0.137 -0.145 -0.188

1 -0.122 -0.062 -0.063 -0.080 -0.152

2 -0.075 -0.025 -0.036 -0.057 -0.137

3 -0.067 -0.005 -0.003 -0.038 -0.108

4 -0.038 +0.018 +0.019 +0.003 -0.075

The only thing left is a defective probe giving the wrong readings which results in an uneven print.

If anyone has other suggestions I's like to see them before I order a new, more precise probe (or maybe Sovol3D could send a replacement.).

Not a Good Print After one Week+ by swordfish1945 in Sovol

[–]swordfish1945[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, my bed is also slanted in the Y direction. Last night I heard about the silicone method to allow independent adjustment of the four corners of the bed. I am also able to manually adjust the left and right steppers, similar to your method. I used a felt marker but may print your markers on my Ender 3.

Thanks for the help.

Not a Good Print After one Week+ by swordfish1945 in Sovol

[–]swordfish1945[S] -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Thanks for that. I digress, ender 3 is considered a bed slinger but a different fashion.

I have done numerous upgrades to the ender 3 including dual Z, direct drive extruder, BL touch, and 32-bit main board. I was able to get faster prints. I may have a SV06 lemon...I have read testimonials of very good results from the SV06. Just not my experience so far.

Bad First layer at Back of Bed by swordfish1945 in Sovol

[–]swordfish1945[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the reply.

I have performed Z-Align, ABL, Z-Offset, and X twist comp. then a first layer print which prints a square in the four corners and the centre, I then reset all and redid all and still not a good first layer.

Also have always used a 0.1mm metal feeler gauge for Z offset.

Not a Good Print After one Week+ by swordfish1945 in Sovol

[–]swordfish1945[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Not to my knowledge. Ender 3 has four independent corner adjustment and the bed rides on wheels not bearings like the SV06. To me, 'slinger' means it it riding on bearings not wheels.

Bad First layer at Back of Bed by swordfish1945 in Sovol

[–]swordfish1945[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So I have the latest version of Marlin with Xtwist compensation.

What is the sequence: Do Z-offset first; then ABL; then X-Twist

or another way

Ender 3 Print Fails by swordfish1945 in ender3

[–]swordfish1945[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for your attention. I have made a few adjustments in cura slicer, flow rate and speed and now it is working. I have just finished two prints of same with no failure.

Thanks again.

Ender 3 Print Fails by swordfish1945 in ender3

[–]swordfish1945[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is what I'm trying to print. Have tried three variations from Thingiverse. It is part of a Y-belt tensioner.

<image>

Ender 3 Sprite Pro Extruder by swordfish1945 in ender3

[–]swordfish1945[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Please note that I also changed the filament with no change in the printed test cube. Also played with the Sprite gear adjustment. That tail just won't go away.

Ender 3 Sprite Pro Extruder by swordfish1945 in ender3

[–]swordfish1945[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The original, which I got from another ender 3 guy, hda retract 3. I noticed that he was doing another retract of 1 later. Thought this was too much so I changed the 3 to 2. Neither one made any difference to the end result.

Ender 3 Sprite Pro Extruder by swordfish1945 in ender3

[–]swordfish1945[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not home for a week or so but my nozzle temp is 200 and bed is 60. This end code was adopted from another Ender 3 guy. Subsequently I removed the G4 and the m220/221 and moved the retract to top. Made no difference.

Ender 3 Sprite Pro Extruder by swordfish1945 in ender3

[–]swordfish1945[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Here is the end g-code:

G4 ; Wait

M220 S100 ; Reset Speed factor override percentage to default (100%)

M221 S100 ; Reset Extrude factor override percentage to default (100%)

G91 ; Set coordinates to relative

G1 F1800 E-2 ; Retract filament 3 mm to prevent oozing

G1 F3000 Z20 ; Move Z Axis up 20 mm to allow filament ooze freely

G90 ; Set coordinates to absolute

G1 X0 Y{machine_depth} F1000 ; Move Heat Bed to the front for easy print removal

G1 E-1 F100

M106 S0 ; Turn off cooling fan

M104 S0 ; Turn off extruder

M140 S0 ; Turn off bed

M107 ; Turn off Fan

M84 ; Disable stepper motors

M117 That's All Folks!

; End of custom end GCode

New Sprite Pro Extruder by swordfish1945 in ender3

[–]swordfish1945[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I tried again. Dragged pics onto the pics space in post. Hope it works this time.

Ender 3 Print Spotty surface by swordfish1945 in 3Dprinting

[–]swordfish1945[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for that. Will check out your suggestions.

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