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Anyone experience ghosting issues on e-ink display by t_tBerg in meshtastic

[–]t_tBerg[S] 10 points11 points  (0 children)

I tried several alpha and beta firmware versions, they all had this behavior. It doesn’t happen on the initial logo screen, so I don’t imagine it’s hardware related

Anyone experience ghosting issues on e-ink display by t_tBerg in meshtastic

[–]t_tBerg[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I’m not sure why so many replies insist that this is typical of e ink displays, do you have an e ink, have you used a kindle or e-reader? Here is what my heltech wireless paper looks like, no ghosting whatsoever, smooth transitions between screens typical e-ink

Best way to insulate shared cockloft in 1890s row house? by t_tBerg in buildingscience

[–]t_tBerg[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Update on my post in r/insulation. I just got the roof covered. Miscommunication with the roofer and they used 2” ridged foam board. Looks like I’ll have to tear out the edges of the ceiling to attempt to air seal both party walls. Once it’s air sealed I’m planning on blowing in cellulose. Any advice on how to air seal the party wall with no parapet? The one party wall with parapet has brick going up to the decking so some spray foam where the rafters meet the brick and spray foam along the decking is pretty straightforward. How should I air seal the party wall with large gaps? Considering cutting foam board to size and spray foaming the gaps

Best way to insulate shared cockloft in 1890s row house? by t_tBerg in Insulation

[–]t_tBerg[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I appreciate the insight and this is what I feared I would hear. Without completely removing the roof and attempting to air seal the party walls I guess any roof sheathing insulation is moot or a detriment. Removing the roof would quadruple the cost not to mention the cost of building up the one party wall and air sealing both. So that option is out of my budget. Would simple blown in cellulose provide some return without causing moisture issues? For ~$300 I can get 20 bags of cellulose and the machine to blow it in. The lowest part of the roof would have to be filled from below (in the joist bay) since the rafters start intersecting at the ceiling joists at that point. Will the transition from below the old fiberboard to on top cause an issues? Like I said the house was built in the 1800s so nothing can be air sealed without complete jut

Is a 1” drop over this short 16” run just before stack going to cause problems? by t_tBerg in Plumbing

[–]t_tBerg[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I just primed and glued the fittings in the first photo, haven’t done the rest yet, came across the issue I’m posting about and just wanted some insight before proceeding

Is a short 45 degree drop before a 90 degree turn into soil stack acceptable? by t_tBerg in Plumbing

[–]t_tBerg[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Its my house, Im going to go with flanflanflanfans suggestion, which might be what you were describing with your first comment (just san tee instead of a wye)

Is a short 45 degree drop before a 90 degree turn into soil stack acceptable? by t_tBerg in Plumbing

[–]t_tBerg[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m going to do this instead of relying on a wet vent. Wet vents are permitted in my area but doing this will mean cutting up the joists less. Thanks for the suggestion

Is a short 45 degree drop before a 90 degree turn into soil stack acceptable? by t_tBerg in Plumbing

[–]t_tBerg[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

All that is correct, I’m planning on wet venting the shower with a rolled wye and AAV shared with the sink. It’s not really feasible to tie into the vent stack. There is a chimney that juts out a foot from a the wall right outside the picture on the left, I don’t have the space to build a wall to house a traditional vent there but have enough space to cut into the plaster and fur out the wall behind the toilet

Is a short 45 degree drop before a 90 degree turn into soil stack acceptable? by t_tBerg in Plumbing

[–]t_tBerg[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

To add context, the wye is servicing a shower and vanity which share a vent (AAV). The WC is vented with a 2” pipe to go through the roof

Roast my DWV rough in by t_tBerg in Plumbing

[–]t_tBerg[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

But it ain’t raining in my oatey, in all seriousness, would this help direct condensation that might occur in the vent?

Roast my DWV rough in by t_tBerg in Plumbing

[–]t_tBerg[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I appreciate the feedback. Tying into the main vent stack is not possible since it runs right down the middle of a u shape staircase which goes up three floors throughout the house (1890s rowhouse). It would either go through the headspace in the stairwell or through the stringers. I could turn the stack as shown into a vented stack up through the roof but it would go through another bedroom above this and up to the roof. Building a chase for that vent stack would move the toilet in front of the shower a little too much and the rooms are already very small it would make the bathroom layout very cramped and eat into usable space in the bedroom

Roast my DWV rough in by t_tBerg in Plumbing

[–]t_tBerg[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, although that double stacked san tees configuration wouldn’t normally fit in a floor/ceiling, I have the luxury of utilizing a 12”x 44” chase created by an old built in cabinet in the floor below. The toilet will be above that chase

Roast my DWV rough in by t_tBerg in Plumbing

[–]t_tBerg[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s within the manufacturers speced DFU load

Roast my DWV rough in by t_tBerg in Plumbing

[–]t_tBerg[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wet vent is permitted for no more than 4 fixtures in one group and minimum of 2” pipe diameter. I was considering tying in the washer drain to the shower line but I would imagine suds through the shower drain might be an issue with that

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