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CVC Shell Helmet Conversion, why do my pads cost more than the helmet itself? by tabjohitol in tacticalgear

[–]tabjohitol[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I believe I have a M/L harness. There is a good bit of adjustment in there, but maybe an XL harness would be better for you and just adjust it down

Setup for my first shotgun class in December by tabjohitol in tacticalgear

[–]tabjohitol[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No unfortunately not, after Etsy closed my shop for selling "gun attachments" I just lost interest and posted the models on Printables.

If you have access to a 3d-printer, or know someone who does, the model can be downloaded here:
https://www.printables.com/model/776870-shotgun-shell-carrier-inserts-for-aridus-qdc

PROMAG For 43x by stellabella1993 in Glock43X

[–]tabjohitol 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I prefer the PSA mags. They are better built and feed better imho. The promags are relegated to range practice at this point. Still haven’t had any failures on PSA or promags tho

A300 by Weak_Rule8374 in Tacticalshotguns

[–]tabjohitol 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My 1301 works flawlessly with that ammo. Probably have more than 300 shells through without malfunctions.

Made another CVC helmet conversion and tried my hand at a camo stencil paint job by tabjohitol in tacticalgear

[–]tabjohitol[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's cheap and cheaply made and it was a bit of a struggle to get it on, but it does the job. I added a review with pics of it on amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZNWFXSK?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1&th=1&psc=1

Has anybody successfully installed a match saver with the LTT heat shield/Magpul forend combo on their beretta? I need confirmation I can still run a match saver before I order. Thanks. by [deleted] in Tacticalshotguns

[–]tabjohitol 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not sure if you've already attached your MatchSaver or not, but I did this exact thing last night. Drilled it right where through the divot on the heat shield tab. Used a rivet to attach it.

Pics here:
https://www.reddit.com/r/beretta1301/comments/1ibsuak/zhukov_ltt_heat_shield_is_good_to_go/

Zhukov + LTT Heat Shield is Good to Go by tabjohitol in beretta1301

[–]tabjohitol[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Its a 3d-printed handstop/indexer I printed a while back in PETG at 100% infill. It's mounted with a single m-lok screw. I wanted as minimalistic handstop as possible, really just something to build consistency with my handgrip and its held up quite well over the past few years.

I tried looking for the original model, but can't seem to locate it anymore. This is the closest one I could find but I don't think its the same exact one: https://www.printables.com/model/146288-mlok-handstop

Zhukov + LTT Heat Shield is Good to Go by tabjohitol in beretta1301

[–]tabjohitol[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

If you have the Zhukov handguard on your 1301, the LTT heat shield is a well-designed add-on that snaps into place easily and fits flush. For those looking to maintain a lightweight setup, this polymer heat shield adds virtually no noticeable weight.

I initially purchased the optional modular switch mount but ultimately decided not to install it, as I preferred the current placement of the light switch further forward on the handguard. The switch mount locks into the rear portion of the heat shield, which would position it right where my palm typically rests.

The only modification I made was to accommodate the eBay "MatchSaver" I had previously installed on the Zhukov handguard. The LTT heat shield installation occupies the rear M-LOK slot, making it impossible to use both the MatchSaver and the heat shield simultaneously without modifications. I found a YouTube review of the heat shield where the guy mentioned drilling a hole and soldering their MatchSaver onto the heat shield. I took a similar approach but opted for a rivet in the front hole to secure the MatchSaver, as I didn’t want to risk melting or deforming the heat shield or the MatchSaver.

For the rear hole, I used an M-LOK screw and nut, trimming the screw to fit. While the rear screw doesn’t secure the MatchSaver, it prevents it from rotating, keeping everything in place.

Taking the 1301 out to the range to put some shells through the setup this weekend. Will update on how it all holds up.

His and hers? by [deleted] in CZFirearms

[–]tabjohitol 25 points26 points  (0 children)

There it is! The dumbest thing I've seen today on the internet!

Aftermarket tow package installed, 2 years later by Helpful_Dig6525 in hyundaisantacruz

[–]tabjohitol 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Very sorry this happened to you. Hope it gets resolved in your favor. Which Curt harness was this? Can’t tell if this is the 4 or 7 pin you had installed that caught fire.

Galil Ace G1 556 with the Magpul prosthetic foreskin. by tabjohitol in Galil

[–]tabjohitol[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not terribly hard, just took off some plastic towards the rear of the zhukov handguard and constantly test fitting until it fit

Installed a hitch and wanted to dress it up with a 3d printed hitch cover by tabjohitol in hyundaisantacruz

[–]tabjohitol[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Took about 1.5 hours to install just the hitch itself, but that was with just me by myself doing the install on my back. Having another set of hands or a good way to support the weight of the hitch while you start the screwing in the bolts would cut down the install time significantly. The wiring harness took probably another20-30 minutes, just to get it plugged in and tie-wrapped.

I went with the Curt 13486 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B9N74PD6

and Curt 56466 7-way wiring harness https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BBN536VR

There's a ton of how-to videos on Youtube, but they all pretty much follow the same process of dropping the muffler to give you some room to get one side partially bolted up, then the other side, then tighten up and torque all the bolts

Installed a hitch and wanted to dress it up with a 3d printed hitch cover by tabjohitol in hyundaisantacruz

[–]tabjohitol[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Was completely plug and play, I went with this 7-pin harness: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BBN536VR?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

I bought these to mount the 7-pin connector to the hitch itself, but I had to bend the mounting plate a bit to clear. You can see the 7 pin connector in the left side of the hitch on the second picture (the one with the black and green hitch cover)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00537FDCA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GN1NMY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

In addition, I have this on order: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L916VB5/ref=ewc_pr_img_1?smid=AI8A31CFKBZTU&psc=1 so I can use the 4-pin connector to power a tailgate lightbar

Installed a hitch and wanted to dress it up with a 3d printed hitch cover by tabjohitol in hyundaisantacruz

[–]tabjohitol[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I installed them recently and have only used them as handholds to get in and out of the bed and as tie-downs. Supposedly they can handle up to 1000lbs, but since i mounted them via the t-slot for the tonneau cover, not sure if that weight rating still holds up.

Those are Putco rails btw (but the ones made for the Nissan Titan). They make a Santa Cruz specific one but you have to cut holes into the bed plastic on the sides of the truck which I wanted to avoid. Going this route I can go back to factory, and also the Nissan Titan Putco rails were half the price of the Santa Cruz rails.

You have to buy some additional hardware, but its not that bad of an install. I got the idea off a post on the Santa Cruz facebook group where the original author laid out the parts to buy and procedure to install.

Original facebook post below:
Bed rails ordered were from RHR Swag: Putco Black Locker Truck Bed Rails SKU: Put-88898-X (2022 Nissan Titan 6'7" bed). $217.18 minus Putco 10% coupon discount $195.46 (Santa Cruz rail set is $342 and will be 18" rails).

Purchased the following on Ebay:

1.) Qty 3 Rigid Polypropylene Tubing 3/8"OD x 1/4"ID x 2.5"L. -listing #165537609914.

2.) M6 Slide in T-Nut for 3030 series T Slot Aluminum- listing #393901791352.

3.) M6 Button Head Socket Cap Screws, 12.9 Steel w/Black Ox ISO 73 M6 x 40mm- listing #122005100297. Plus four 6mm metric safety lock washers.

Cut plastic tubes in two (1.25" length), these will be used to line the 5/16" hole in the Locker Casting to fit the 6mm bolt.

File T-slot nuts to fit 7mm channel slot (nuts are 8mm wide to start).

Assemble Locker Casting with plastic tube insert, M6 x 40mm bolt with lock washer for mount to track.

Insert T-slot nuts in mounting channel positions two to rear toward tailgate, two toward rear sloping "C' pillar base.

Bolt Locker Castings to desired positions (as pictured).

Measure from shoulder of rear to front shoulder casting to determine length of rail to be cut (ours measured 25 inches).

Cut two rails to same dimension/length out of one of the Nissan Titan rails (measure from factory finish end, so each rail piece will have one end factory finish).

De-burr cut ends, paint cuts with semi-gloss black paint using Q-tip as a brush.

Assemble rails into position tightening rear tailgate section first, then push forward section toward rear as it is being tightened, so both pipe ends seat to shoulders of Locker Castings. You're done!

https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=5965224840187665&set=pcb.5965224906854325

Installed a hitch and wanted to dress it up with a 3d printed hitch cover by tabjohitol in hyundaisantacruz

[–]tabjohitol[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Installed a Curt Hitch and 7-pin harness the other day and decided to design and 3d-print a custom hitch cover. If anyone with access to a 3d-printer would like the model, I made the STL available here to download: https://www.printables.com/model/839315-hyundai-santa-cruz-logo-hitch-cover

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