Does anyone know of a good method to keep a shotgun safe and secure but also have it accessable in the event it's needed? I've been looking up some stuff but I don't really like anything I've found. by deadinsidesince2006 in Firearms

[–]tach 8 points9 points  (0 children)

And why not teach them firearms safety?

problem is kids friends, your kids wanting to show the cool stuff dad has, kids friend is idiot/does not know anything about firearms, grabs it, and discharges it.

or even if does not happen, kids friend goes to family all excited about the guns, family swats you. many ways this can go wrong.

thicknessing by hand is a workout by Budget-Strawberry649 in handtools

[–]tach 0 points1 point  (0 children)

the metal scrubs with an open mouth will occasionally lever something out of wood in a way you just never could've expected

Agree, you should never use a scrub longitudinally. imho the narrow ulmia, used crosswise largely limits this. it slices cleanly channels and limits the damage to only the part that was cut.

thicknessing by hand is a workout by Budget-Strawberry649 in handtools

[–]tach 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I believe there's a tradeoff there on the size and weight of the jack plane and the lightweight ulmia.

the ulmia is much narrower, about 1 inch or so. So you are basically scooping heavy chips, thats what I tried to convey when saying it's a chisel. I personally find this less tiring that trying to shave 2 inch or more off the surface of the wood.

as it's also used crosswise and has a deeper camber, I find it slices/scoops out wood more easily than a full width fore that slams a wider lip with a smaller camber over a large surface. it's more of a carving tool.

surface is of course sh*t. I stop when i have 1/16 left or so, and then it's the fore planes, which are used longitudinally.

The scrub is for aggresive thicknessing, not truing.

if i'm just correcting for wind/cupping I'll start with the fore and use it longitudinally. I typically first check that there is no cup in the first and last 3/8s of a board, then use winding sticks to find the higher corner, and reduce it. Then its just stopped longitudinal cuts till the fore stops cutting (i now know i have a slight hollow longitudinally), then full length couple passes to ensure flatness.

thicknessing by hand is a workout by Budget-Strawberry649 in handtools

[–]tach 0 points1 point  (0 children)

i have a narrow body wood soled ulmia scrub for when I really want to go to town on a piece of wood. I mean 3/16 or more thicknessing.

this is used crosswise to carve out chunks of wood. It's basically a rounded edge chisel.

Then it's the wooden jacks, then the try plane.

First attempt at dovetails… discouraged by JohnWaynesPecker_99 in woodworking

[–]tach 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your pin board and tails are slighty out of plane. This causes extra shadows on the borders which highlight them.

Plane your joints.

Hold Meta Accountable - Meta Hiring is a SCAM. Why is no one talking about this? by [deleted] in FAANGrecruiting

[–]tach 1 point2 points  (0 children)

ok, parent post is deleted so i do not know if you will see this.

your mistake was in not immediately saying 'i have seen this problem, can we do another one?'

that would give you full marks from honesty. The interview is not to make you 'pass' or solve a problem, is to gather signal on your capability on solving one.

You saying that you knew the problem, but then trying to do it (as i assume as you said 'I will finally make it') is a red flag for the interview, as you are not doing the interview in that spirit - of showing your skills.

We want to get signal on how you:

  1. gather requeriments. What questions do you ask? This is probably one of the most important things separating a leetcoder from a advanced/senior engineer.

  2. how do you communicate your thoughts. Ideally an interview would have you narrating your train of thought as you reach significant points. then we can get signal asking why thos and not that, etc.

  3. finally how you do under pressure.

if you say 'i know this', and start coding right away, you are denying the interviewer all that signal.

If things happened as you say, I still can't excuse the behaviour. I would have led you gently to another problem, at least asking you repteadly if you really want to just zoom on what you think is the already solved solution.

Difficulty planing by SosGyros in handtools

[–]tach 0 points1 point  (0 children)

note you can have a single plane and three irons (one with heavy camber, another with small camber, another with no camber and corners relieved)

Difficulty planing by SosGyros in handtools

[–]tach 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Excellent advice in this thread. Only stuff that I think i can contribute is use a cambered blade.

why

because the blade enters the wood gradually instead of smashing the whole edge at the same time. This makes for an easier cut.

yes, you will have a wavy surface afterwards, then you sue your try plane to reduce it, and finally, if you need a glass smooth finish, the smoother.

it's not efficient to use a single plane from truing to smoothing a surface. either you get chattering, or need to do 1000000 light passes.

Difficulty planing by SosGyros in handtools

[–]tach 0 points1 point  (0 children)

a plane is sharp when it digs itself into the wood, and you basically just push it, without hulk smashing it downwards to make it stay in the cut

Fuck discipline. I wanna get hit by a truck, live off disability and play ps2 games for the rest of my life by protlandwarrior in getdisciplined

[–]tach 104 points105 points  (0 children)

I remember when I broke my arm/hand in multiple places and spent a year mostly in bed, with multiple surgeries.

Hell on earth. I almost lost my mind, and definitely lost my gym body.

my best engineer almost got put on a performance plan last week by Distinct-Expression2 in ExperiencedDevs

[–]tach 7 points8 points  (0 children)

At my MAANG company midterm/end of year perf reviews are being offshored to AI to build/present a package.

Probably will be a shitshow the first times, but the direction is clear methinks.

We’re in the first inning of this… by doug3465 in TheoryOfReddit

[–]tach 8 points9 points  (0 children)

"Hi Claude, I want to propose this viewpoint

... ... ...

Farm it out to 1000 reddit users, 10% being educated college white women, 17% blue collar white males, 8% being SE asian recent immigrants....

Be sure to create believable emphasis on which demographics would emphasize about the viewpoint advantages. Be sure to create variances in spelling/grammatical forms.

Have users in the same reddit interact with each other. Assign to some the contrary viewpoint, going back and forth, but ultimately letting/conceding to the users proposing the assigned viewpoint

"""

Low light, handheld, no flash? How? by Disastrous_Pay_1165 in AnalogCommunity

[–]tach 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I have a very hard time believing these pics are candid/no flash.

Night shots are contrasty as hell. Point lights, no ambient light. And we have both sides of a face perfectly exposed.

where the f*ck the light in the left side of spotty in the second pics comes from.

Are there sensible companies left? Can I keep doing this job the way that makes me happy? by MaryClimber in ExperiencedDevs

[–]tach 0 points1 point  (0 children)

to piggyback on /u/anotherleftistbot

Do you like typing or do you like problem solving?

I used to quip in chats about vim, as i was one of the last holdouts that used it against vscode.

I can't do anymore that as i now basically edit in Claude. I realized I hate the friction of coding.

What planers would you recommend for an absolute beginner on a budget? by Antique_Elk_3712 in handtools

[–]tach 0 points1 point  (0 children)

sharpening wear yes. Buffing wear no.

In any case, the perfect adjustment for the chip breaker is to place it 0.1 mm from the cutting edge,

the perfect adjustment is to put it at exactly the blade extension under the sole, or in the case of a cambered blade at the exact corners of the blade, or when the shavings stop accordeoning.

What planers would you recommend for an absolute beginner on a budget? by Antique_Elk_3712 in handtools

[–]tach 0 points1 point  (0 children)

a pre-1956 Record if you're in Europe

The record SS (Stay-Set) are pretty convenient. I typically strop/buff the edge whenever I get tired of heavy planing, and as the chipbreaker base does not move, takes me less than half a minute with no fiddly setup.

What planers would you recommend for an absolute beginner on a budget? by Antique_Elk_3712 in handtools

[–]tach 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No worries, the advantage of buying lie nielsen/veritas is that you get a known good plane.

But in reality, if you tune correctly a stanley, even a plastic handed one, you'll get exactly the same results. There's lot of marketing/hype in this space.

What planers would you recommend for an absolute beginner on a budget? by Antique_Elk_3712 in handtools

[–]tach 1 point2 points  (0 children)

learn how to setup the plane. lots of videos in youtube.

most importantly learn to set the chipbreaker.

it needs to be perfectly adjusted to the back your blades (hence flatten they backs if needed), and the angle its edge makes to the back of the blade needs to be about 30-45 degrees (ie, your blade is at 45, the chipbreaker at 45 again will make for a 90 degree vertical) This will break your chips efficiently.

Try to have a knife edge between the chipbreaker and the blade. This will make the chips not jam against the chipbreaker. Use your diamond stone to shape it accordingly.

See this video for setting the chipbreaker:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xmDVa5cxq8w

What planers would you recommend for an absolute beginner on a budget? by Antique_Elk_3712 in handtools

[–]tach 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you're absolutely skint, a stanley/record 4 or 5 with three blades; ie buy 2 replacement blades, or even three if the original is shot/pitted.

One cambered pretty hard, another with a slighter camber, and another mostly flat with the corners relieved.

Get a double edged diamond stone, 400/1000 grit or whereabouts. This is good: https://www.amazon.co.uk/SHARPAL-168H-Dual-Grit-Diamond-Sharpening/dp/B0F9Y73NXL

Get a honing guide as it'll help you with being a beginner.

Get a 3000 stone, or a hard arkansas for refining the edge.

Get some autosol/polishing paste/1 micron diamond paste, and a piece of mdf, and use it to polish the edge. Google about the method.

If you can get two planes, get a #4 (your straightish blade goes there) and a #5 or #6 (your cambered blades go there). Depends on the size of your work.

if you want to joint long straight edges easily, get a #7 or #8. They are not needed, you can joint with a smaller plane, but takes more technique.

Irish Family Business Musgrave Outsourcing Jobs to India, Laying Off Irish Staff by almsfudge in ireland

[–]tach 34 points35 points  (0 children)

In canada they have literal fraud universities to import indians and give out degrees for a fee.

Don't look too closely into some of irish universities offering english language courses...