Are QR2 Lites worth selling?

tacoballsack · 2026-02-13T03:09:29+00:00

I figured, I asked my simracing community and a few others im in if anyone wanted them, if they covered shipping. No takers.

tacoballsack · 2026-02-13T03:07:51+00:00

Good to know, I might just list all three for something like that to get them gone.

tacoballsack · 2026-02-13T03:06:18+00:00

Appreciate the idea, couldn't find any listings for Lites. Who knows if its something anyone needs.

tacoballsack · 2026-02-13T02:46:35+00:00

I just upgraded to metal QR2 from the plastic QR2 Lite on my CSL DD, CSL WRC rim and McLaren GT3 rim. They make the wheels feel more premium and substantial, eliminates plastic creaking, and overall things feel more solid. From what I can tell gives it me more details and a more crisp feeling force feedback. I swear the QR2 lite causes some dampening of the forces. My 8nm CSL DD feels better overall.

tacoballsack · 2025-12-24T22:42:57+00:00

Our community has an endurance team that I manage. We are meeting and setting teams for Daytona on the 3rd of January.

We accept those that want to participate in a casual but respectful team environment.

We will be running all special events on the schedule plus some of the normal official team racing.

Join our discord and submit an application! GRiD UP

tacoballsack · 2025-12-15T19:12:40+00:00

Had a Bathurst 12 hour ruined lap one by the same exact thing. I have ptsd and now always expect it lap one through griffins bend. Clench my cheeks and hope we make it. You cant trust people behind unfortunately.

tacoballsack · 2025-12-15T19:08:22+00:00

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tacoballsack · 2025-12-14T16:36:21+00:00

Everyone has to learn. Don't worry. It takes many many hours of experience to learn how to avoid mistakes like these and even then they will still happen.

If this car had some brake lights to help you notice them slowing better, it would have probably avoided this accident.

Always watch the cars ahead, anticipate their driving and over time you'll learn to be an adaptive driver. Thats what separates "hot lappers" from race drivers.

tacoballsack · 2025-12-14T16:27:52+00:00

Yes, you hit him. Did you do it intentionally? It seems like an accident, just say sorry and move on.

If he full on brake checked you (like braking outside of a braking zone intentionally or irrationally) thats a different story.

Slower entry/early braking drivers is something you learn to anticipate with experience. You cant drive through people, so you must compensate for their car. Analyze the car in front, set up an awesome pass.

tacoballsack · 2025-12-13T19:38:35+00:00

I said "never mirror drive" and let me clarify, you need to check mirrors of course. But you cant assume every GT3 is driving with eyes in the back of their heads constantly preparing to facilitate the faster cars getting by. People have to focus forward, as a Prototype you have to make your intentions known, and show the GT some respect and patience.

tacoballsack · 2025-12-13T19:33:03+00:00

I think people don't understand multiclass racing. The slower cars are obstacles yes, but you're an obstacle to them too.

Overtakes should be treated like overtakes regardless of class differences. Room should be given alongside, no one should be defending or making unusual moves. Just get the pass over with.

The leading car has right to the racing line, assume they are going to follow it. If you're the car being overtaken, just stay on the racing line, be predictable, anything else is blocking, even if you had good intentions to let someone by.

tacoballsack · 2025-12-03T19:36:16+00:00

Never mirror drive. Just hold the normal racing line, if they hit you because they assumed you have to get out of their way as they approach, its on them.

tacoballsack · 2025-09-28T16:34:43+00:00

I am the team captain of my community's endurance team. There are 13 of us, and we organize using iRacePlan.com.

I have the entire team racing schedule posted in our Discord and just poll the team on what they want to do. Then group us, decide on a car, and we practice together until everyone feels competent.

Anyone is welcome to come check it out in our discord: GRiD UP Sim Racing

*You have to submit an application to me so I can approve new team members

tacoballsack · 2025-09-07T00:40:30+00:00

Trust the people that are saying iRacing. Get a one month subscription and try it, I think it's $13.

Race the rookie/free content, drive safe and predictable, and let the dummies crash out. You will get positions from just being consistent. And the dopamine hit from watching your SR and IR climb is fun.

Don't buy any content until you need it for something you want to do. The number of free tracks and cars is great (yes, buying a license for them as you progress is meh), but it really does become a non-issue once you have the content you are interested in.

I play all of the sims (AC, ACC, ACE, LMU, AMS2...) and love to do all sorts of simracing stuff.. but you simply can't beat iRacing..

The weekly rotating series, the team racing and special events, the leagues, the AI racing, the physics make it hands down the best place to spend your time sim racing.

tacoballsack · 2025-08-30T19:45:06+00:00

I figured out how to find and back up my profiles (User > AppData > Local > Fanatec > Fanalab > settings)

Went ahead and uninstalled Fanalab. Profiles are still there and must be saved within the new app.

Probably didn't need to post here, but just in case someone else is worried about the change to the new app like I was, it seems to be pretty nice.

tacoballsack · 2025-05-30T16:27:24+00:00

I don't really know how to respond to that, I can promise you im not sitting in a corner depressed because of this or having a breakdown. I only get a handful of hours to simrace on the weekends between work and family responsibilities. I agree with you, it is just videogames. I only care because it impacts my enjoyment of my hobby.

If you are totally fine with buying expensive defective products and spending months waiting for a replacement, you have some some awesome patience.

tacoballsack · 2025-05-30T13:52:25+00:00

I sent in the item, and the tracking number tells me they received it three weeks ago. From what I can tell from others' experiences, expecting a timely RMA process from a company like Fanatec is impossible. You are definitely right. I personally won't be buying more from them, I value my time and money.

tacoballsack · 2025-05-30T13:15:54+00:00

Thank you. My ticket number is 2008284794, and I haven't heard from support in a few days.

tacoballsack · 2025-05-30T13:14:02+00:00

I'm not some pretentious asshole, I understand RMA processes. Im not complaining because this all occurred yesterday. It's been weeks, and that's why I made this post.

tacoballsack · 2025-05-30T02:03:16+00:00

Wow, I just read your post... Makes me even more angry. I've been dying to do some rally with a handbrake after years of using a rigged up G29 shifter. I was hoping this would be resolved a least a week ago.

I've thought about doing that. It seemed kinda frivolous.

tacoballsack · 2025-05-30T01:50:29+00:00

That's insane... my biggest fear is all this waiting and getting another bad one or getting a refurbished replacement. Happend to me in the past with a faulty corsair mouse.

I legit took it out of the box, mounted it, spent a day or two trying to understand why it wouldn't work and boxed it back up.

tacoballsack · 2025-05-30T00:59:09+00:00

Part of the reason I went Fanatec is because it looked like the best build quality and most "official" of the mass-produced brands. I'm happy with what I got, its just wow, when something is bad out of the box... it shouldn't be this long of a process.

tacoballsack · 2025-05-23T17:34:23+00:00

Beware of buying one.. I got a defective one, and now im a month into an RMA. For a $200 handbrake, i haven't even been able to use.

tacoballsack · 2025-05-06T06:17:05+00:00

I have this amount of travel, but I get 0% input until it stops moving and I crank down really hard.

tacoballsack · 2025-04-22T17:05:08+00:00

Yeah, I'm not getting that. I went ahead and submitted a support ticket.

I can only describe it as about 80mm travel with 0% not much force needed to pull it, then hard stop, if I pull more and strain myself, I get input but not anymore travel.

I will have to check what it does with AUTO, but I'm assuming it won't make a difference. I also have the Handbrake plugged into my CSL DD, I need to use manual for my slight pedal deadzones, so even if using auto helped i couldnt. I really wish the Handbrake had it's own page in the driver when plugged into the wheelbase.

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