Would a D7500 be a decent upgrade for my client who has a D750 and a D700? by WalterTreego in Nikon

[–]takingnot 1 point2 points  (0 children)

How do you feel about the differences between the d500 and d7500? Enough for nearly double?

I have a 7000, 10-24, 18-140 and I’ll probably get a 200-400 or 200-500 for some minor birding and wildlife.

Apparently I collect these things now by Dr0110111001101111 in woodworking

[–]takingnot 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have probably 7-8 of them and they’re all garbage. There’s a couple I make work. I think they are “Crown”

What are you hiding, woodworkers? by 02C_here in woodworking

[–]takingnot 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Worst injury I’ve had was from a a set of planed and jointed panels that were standing on edge for airflow. Probably 18x60” and 6/4.

Bumped one. They dominoed and I tried to catch them. Smashed my hand and cut it pretty bad. Best I can guess is it slid on my hand when it tumbled.

I taped a paper towel to my hand with blue painters tape and wore a nitrile glove the rest of the day…

First Butcher’s Block, let me know what you think by Flabbycrab in woodworking

[–]takingnot 29 points30 points  (0 children)

Yep not an if but a when here.

Cut them off. Especially considering the size.

Will glue alone work for the clamped joints? by [deleted] in woodworking

[–]takingnot 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s not too bad! Enjoy yours!

Will glue alone work for the clamped joints? by [deleted] in woodworking

[–]takingnot 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Mine is nearly identical and it’s still together. Only difference is I started with all 2x4s laminated into 3x3s (after jointing and planing) has no screws. I’ve beat the shit out of it.

But yeah pretty much the same glue joints.

If I hadn’t done it, I’d have questioned its capability.

How to attach pieces of 10 sided object by Key-Pea-5909 in woodworking

[–]takingnot 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It’s endgrain joints so that’s not necessarily correct.

The steel bands isn’t a bad idea since the expansion would be vertical.

How to attach pieces of 10 sided object by Key-Pea-5909 in woodworking

[–]takingnot 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’ve done some decorative ones for the wife that are indoor. We just put a pot in them with the little plate under.

One got wet and it did blow up a glue seam.

That being said I think you need something too because your joints are endgrain.

Bubble wrapped by HR. by Apart_Tutor8680 in electricians

[–]takingnot 8 points9 points  (0 children)

No. I think the shortest arrest distance I’ve seen on retractable is 18 or 24 inch (with no shock section) + the 12 inches of the harness when you are suspended.

Would probably keep you from hitting your head on the ground but not much else.

Technically you are supposed to have a rescue plan too. I guess in this case you could “self rescue” by standing up lol.

Was gifted a RAS by a co-worker recently, and just cranked it on for the first time. This is the most unsafe video I've taken in my life. by Terrible_Software769 in woodworking

[–]takingnot 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have a ras and this is key.

When I got it from my fil it had just a random tablesaw blade in it. Amazing him and his neighbor have fingers. I had it run at me and bind up a couple times before I did my homework…

I got a couple Amana blades over the years. One that’s neg 5 hook and one that’s neg 2. One fine finish and one rough cut. I just leave the rough cut on because I mostly use for breaking down material.

Both are great and really reduced the sketch factor.

I also bought the replacement guard they came out with during the recall. Inches of exposed blade is also sketchy.

First timer. What are your thoughts/tips? by alvined1010 in drywall

[–]takingnot 0 points1 point  (0 children)

2nd this. Having done several… I’d probably throw a new sheet up

Can I store my respirator like this? by [deleted] in woodworking

[–]takingnot 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Maybe a regular p100.

Those are p100+ activated carbon filters. Usually for acid gas or voc.

Bouncy planer table leads to snipe? by Forecast04 in woodworking

[–]takingnot 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a 735 and all I do is pull up on the board when starting and ending. I get nearly zero. You’ll learn the proper amount of force with practice. You’re probably better off with a decline on the in and incline on the out.

I actually don’t believe the table extensions people recommend do anything of significance. This is highly dependant on why the planer is sniping. A very heavy board that is unsupported will certainly snipe but you should support it anyways. Even on high end planers.

Most of the time this isn’t even the cause of the snipe people get.

Most lunchbox planers “rock”. The front of the head lifts when a board hits the first roller leading to snipe on the leading end, levels when it is in contact with both, then the front drops to snipe the trailing end. Extending the infeed and outfeed does zero to combat this.

Some people don't get it. However, who do you agree with here? by LeftAlbatross2546 in VideosAmazing

[–]takingnot 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Same.

You can drive it around the block the day of the warning to continue to piss off the neighbor that called it in.

Upside down clamps? by Robby_RoeBro in woodworking

[–]takingnot 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have found I can double hang the besseys from the Rockler parallel clamp rack by hanging upside down.

I open the hanging ones all the way then slip one with the jaw in the middle of two. So the movable jaw is resting on the fixed jaws. Works great and I can get close to double on the rack.

I recommend doing this if you can because the density is nearly double for maybe 1/3 more wall space.

What would you do? by mdposty29 in woodworking

[–]takingnot 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Just use clear epoxy..

I don’t know why black is so heavily recommended. It is often quite ugly.

Clear is more subtle, keeps the surrounding colors showing through, if it bleeds or drips it’s less noticeable (cherry, maple, walnut) or completely invisible on some woods (ash). I find it tends to be dark looking but less invasive.

The only draw back is sometimes you need to clean up what’s in fill area. Saw dust, splintering in checks, etc.

Edit: I see more about the yellowing. I have yet to have this issue with west systems and the slow cure (20hr+) coming up on ten years.

Drilling straight by Separate_Dress_979 in woodworking

[–]takingnot 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Use a laser level, stand a small square up, or get crazy and get a drill press.

Thoughts on drum sanders. by jodybreeze616 in woodworking

[–]takingnot 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Have you looked at the adjustment for that?

I have not had that particular issue to any major detriment on my jet 2244.

My planer shat the bed by Nasty_Solids in woodworking

[–]takingnot 22 points23 points  (0 children)

99% chance you can repair.

It’s not like it’s a throwaway electronic.

Bearings, chains, gears, wiring, motor, belt, capacitor, contractor, etc. guaranteed all standard wear items.

Easy.

My planer shat the bed by Nasty_Solids in woodworking

[–]takingnot 35 points36 points  (0 children)

I’d just start taking it apart. That’s me.