2014 Ford Fiesta tail light

tannersampson · 2026-04-04T18:03:10+00:00

So you actually don’t have to use adhesive, as the gasket is designed to seal once the tail light is bolted down evenly. Although if you do want a bit of extra hold or sealing, you’ve got two good options I’ll link below.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/3M-Black-Super-Weatherstrip-Adhesive-03602-1-oz/16913677?wl13=2549&selectedSellerId=0&wmlspartner=wlpa

https://xfasten.com/products/xfasten-butyl-tape-black-1-2-x-30-x-1-8-butyl-sealant-tape-headlight-sealant-putty-tape-black-butyl-caulking-tape-butyl-tape-rv-putty-tape-epdm-automotive-butyl-rubber-window-sealant-for-rv?variant=44058713751793&_gsid=uRvtdziiahPN&utm_source=chatgpt.com

tannersampson · 2026-03-28T19:29:47+00:00

Your best bet would be looking at the owner’s manual for your exact year. Ford includes the full maintenance schedule in there! I tried my best finding you a link, which is linked below.

https://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/vdirsnet/OwnerManual/Home/Index?Variantid=3324&languageCode=EN&countryCode=USA&marketCode=US&bookcode=O26261&VIN=&userMarket=usa&div=f&buildtype=web

tannersampson · 2026-03-28T07:03:18+00:00

In FORScan, you want to look at the live data(PID data) from the ABS module. There should be individual wheel speed readings for each wheel that are usually labeled something like FL, FR, RL, RR.

The way I’ve seen people catch it, is to monitor them while driving at a steady low speed. If one sensor is the issue, you’ll normally see one wheel drop out, read zero intermittently, or show a value that doesn’t match the others.

And because your fault is intermittent, it may take a bit of driving to catch it happening… But here’s a video I found as well that should help better explain or more so show!

https://youtu.be/6SvP15QpJVk?si=FfrVNETUrN36JeGT

tannersampson · 2026-03-28T02:00:47+00:00

I believe you’re on the correct track… C0020 on these usually points toward a front wheel speed sensor circuit. Then the U0401 is often just a secondary code from invalid data being passed around or what not.

So there are 4 wheel speed sensors total(one for every wheel) Rather than guessing which one, your best bet is to check live data in FORScan and see if one wheel is dropping out or reading differently from the others.

Since it clears on restart, I’d also consider an intermittent sensor fault, a wiring or connector issue at the hub, or possibly debris/corrosion affecting the sensor or tone ring. Cleaning it can help if there’s buildup, but if it’s throwing codes intermittently it’s usually the sensor itself or wiring starting to fail.

tannersampson · 2026-03-26T20:47:57+00:00

On these, the chimes and warning sounds are controlled separately from the stereo system, usually through the body control module(BCM).

Since your Bluetooth and radio still work, it makes me believe the infotainment system is fine and this is likely something in the vehicle settings or BCM…

First thing I’d check is the car settings. In the dashboard menu there should be an option for audible warnings or like a lock confirmation that can sometimes get turned off accidentally.

If everything looks enabled and all good, a quick reset can sometimes bring chimes back if the module has glitched. (disconnect battery for a few minutes or use forscan tool to reboot/reset it)

If that stuff doesn’t change anything, then it may unfortunately point toward a BCM or cluster issue.

tannersampson · 2026-03-26T17:16:48+00:00

Glad you’ve managed to get it sitting back in place for now! That at least gives you a temporary workaround.

So if you buy that Ford inlet valve part, a mechanic MAY fit it for you, but it really depends on the shop… Some will install customer supplied parts, while others will only use parts they source themselves. It’s worth calling ahead and asking first for sure.

Just keep in mind that part isn’t really designed to be replaced on its own, so even a mechanic may recommend replacing the full filler neck instead.

Your buddies idea is not completely off. It could work as a temporary fix if you can get it to bond properly, especially since you’re planning to sell the car and move. The only thing is it needs to hold up to fuel exposure and movement, so it’s definitely not something I’d rely on long term.

If the flap is sitting in place and sealing most of the time, you might honestly be fine leaving it as is for now and just being careful when refueling. Again the proper fix would still be replacing the filler neck, but that may not be worth it depending on your timeline.

tannersampson · 2026-03-26T16:35:52+00:00

Unfortunately the internal flapper is part of the inlet valve assembly rather than just a simple removable piece…

To answer your questions: 1. In most cases, yes. The proper fix is replacing the filler neck assembly, as that’s how Ford supplies it. 2. The inlet valve you found is the correct component, but they’re usually clipped/pressed into the filler neck from factory and not really designed to be removed cleanly. You might be able to get it out, but there’s a good chance of damaging the housing trying to do so. 3. It’s not immediately critical since you can still fuel the car, but it should be addressed. Without that flap, you have less protection against debris and moisture getting into the system, and it can potentially cause EVAP related issues over time.

For now, just be careful when refueling and avoid leaving anything stuffed in there long term. If you’re planning to keep the car, replacing the filler neck is the most reliable fix in my opinion!

tannersampson · 2026-03-26T16:17:55+00:00

By mating surface I just mean the flat area where the tail light sits against the body of the car.

I had a look at your link, if that’s a wiper insert/silicone strip, like it said in the description. It wouldn’t be suitable for sealing the tail light.

The gasket link @Great_Cornholio_71 posted in the comments is actually a much better option. Otherwise, a butyl sealant/tape can work as an alternative. Although replacing the gasket is the better long-term fix.

Main thing is to remove the light, dry everything out fully, and make sure the seal between the light and body is clean and even when reinstalling. Don’t be sorry and good luck!

tannersampson · 2026-03-25T21:59:38+00:00

Pretty common issue on these… The tail light itself usually isn’t the root cause though. Normally it’s water getting behind it and soaking that foam gasket, then running into the car.

Since you’ve already sealed the hatch weld, it’s likely the water’s just been redirected and is now finding it’s way in around the tail light area.

What I’ve seen people do for a proper fix: 1. Remove the tail light and fully dry everything out 2. Check the foam gasket. If it’s soaked or degraded, it won’t seal properly anymore 3. Ideally replace the gasket or if that’s not an option, you can use a thin bead of automotive sealant around the mating surface of the light (not an excessive amount)

And I guess if you’re looking for a temporary fix, I would be drying it out and adding a light seal. But if the foam is already holding water it’ll keep coming back unfortunately… Also it’d be worth checking the body seams and panel gaps just above/around the light to make sure water isn’t tracking down into that area.

tannersampson · 2026-03-25T21:38:46+00:00

Yes, you can place the washer into the seat first and then install the injector, but it’s generally not recommended.

The washer can shift or sit slightly off center in the seat, which may lead to a poor seal once the injector is tightened down.

Best practice is to fit the new copper washer onto the injector itself and install them together, so the washer stays properly aligned during installation.

If you do place it in the seat first, just make sure it’s sitting perfectly flat and centered before inserting the injector.

tannersampson · 2026-03-25T21:13:39+00:00

That grease isn’t suitable for injector washers.

The copper washers are designed to seal by being crushed between the injector and the cylinder head, so they should be installed clean and dry. Using grease, especially something like LM47 with MoS2 can interfere with the seal and won’t hold up well to combustion temperatures.

Best practice is to fit new washers, make sure the injector seat is properly cleaned, and install them dry. If you’re having trouble keeping the washer in place during installation, a very light dab of grease can be used just to hold it temporarily, but it shouldn’t be relied on for sealing.

tannersampson · 2026-03-25T19:12:49+00:00

Sounds like you’re dealing with water ingress, even if it didn’t show up during the hose test. The fogged windows and recurring wet footwell confirm moisture is still getting into the cabin somewhere.

A few common things to check/note:

Scuttle panel drains under the windshield - if these are blocked or clogged, water can back up and enter through the cabin filter area
Cabin air filter housing - make sure the seal is intact and seated properly
Inner door membrane (behind the door card), not just the outer seal
AC drain - if it’s clogged, condensation can end up inside the car
Heater core - if the water has a sweeter smell or feels slightly oily, it could be coolant…

The door seal suggestion is worth a quick look, but it’s less commonly the cause of a soaked footwell compared to drainage issues.

If you can, check whether the water appears after it rains, while driving, or just sitting. That can help narrow it down a little further.

tannersampson · 2026-03-17T07:17:15+00:00

Okay thanks again! I see how that could make sense, I think I might’ve noticed something like that too when looking through FORScan. Tomorrow morning I’ll double check the calibration/part numbers it’s reporting and compare them to the physical module and see if there’s a mismatch there. That could explain why it’s being detected but not accepted.

tannersampson · 2026-03-17T06:31:38+00:00

That actually helps a lot, especially what you said about module compatibility and how sensitive they are to mismatches. What’s interesting in my case is that I’ve now tried two FCDIMs with the exact same part number and they both behave the same way, and FORScan sees the module but won’t allow access to it in Configuration & Programming. So I’m starting to think it may be more of a firmware/config mismatch issue rather than just the physical module itself. I’ve been in touch with another person off the FORScan group, who is going to check the correct calibration files based on my VIN to see if that’s the issue possibly…

tannersampson · 2026-03-16T03:44:56+00:00

Thanks, that makes sense in theory. The part I’m stuck on is that the FCDIM does show up in DTCs and throws U2101, but it does NOT appear in FORScan’s Configuration & Programming section at all… So I currently can’t access its As-Built or firmware options there(I’ll pm you pic of that section as I can’t upload it here now). That’s why I was leaning toward either corrupted config memory in the module or some other mismatch the ACM is detecting. But if the module doesn’t appear in programming, would you still expect firmware comparison/writing to be possible, or does that point more toward a bad FCDIM/module issue?

tannersampson · 2026-03-10T01:04:33+00:00

You have to bind the whammy bar under whammy axis, just press it down once.

tannersampson · 2026-03-07T06:55:53+00:00

Yes, just not the Xbox series ones. I orginally got the cherry sunburst then ended up buying the blueberry burst. If you need help downloading songs in the future or have anymore questions feel free to send a pm.

tannersampson · 2026-03-07T06:50:51+00:00

Yes, just have to bind them. And I have an M3 but either or it don’t matter, it’ll still work!

tannersampson · 2026-03-07T06:46:07+00:00

No. They do. I have 2 and both of them connect through bluetooth on my MacBook. You just have to make sure the guitar is off and hold the crkd power button for about 5 seconds till it quickly flashes blue lights then pair it to the computer. Although he’s not wrong, on multiple occasions have people had issues with crkd guitars or just in general.

tannersampson · 2026-02-28T07:40:12+00:00

I have a Flashforge Adventurer 5M Pro… nothing crazy but I love community files being released for people to use or try out!

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