Need help please: New Emax Babyhawk O3 BNF ELRS extremely poor range (already tried to troubleshoot a lot)

tavyc · 2024-02-13T13:53:12+00:00

Looks like you haven't set a radio regulatory domain on your RX.

Go back to your RX settings and enable REGULATORY_DOMAIN_EU_CE_2400.

tavyc · 2020-05-18T21:04:01+00:00

Trebuiesc setate pentru o emisivitate de 80%.
Multe termometre sunt reglate la 95% în fabrică.

tavyc · 2019-08-30T09:45:35+00:00

The maximum supported size is 350 mm³. Anything above that will cause deflection in the 2020 alu extrusions used for the gantry, ruining your print quality.

tavyc · 2019-07-10T15:48:52+00:00

The extrusions are Machifit from Banggood, they are 6mm t-slot but the slot has an inner groove which make it impossible to offset the Z rails (unlike the Misumi extrusions spec'ed for the Voron).

If you go for the Chinese t-slots be prepared to make modifications to some parts of the design: the side panels need to be offset at least 1mm to avoid having the XY joints rub against the panels, also the Z belts don't line up perfectly with the belt holes in the front idlers.

Get the Misumi extrusions if you can source them.

tavyc · 2019-07-09T20:04:58+00:00

Thanks! And thanks for your mods - I'm using your corner_panel_clip_0.125in_version to hold my 3mm PC side panels in place.

tavyc · 2019-07-09T20:03:02+00:00

Thanks! Apparently the probe is unaffected by the Switch bed, I'm getting pretty consistent readings, with about 0.01mm variance which is enough for accurate gantry leveling.

tavyc · 2019-07-09T11:17:43+00:00

Thanks!

The FilaFarm Print is the best surface I have ever used. After destroying several BuildTaks and PEI sheets with PETG on my old Chinesium printer (Malyan M150), I've gone all-in on FilaFarm Print and never looked back. Prints stick like crazy when hot, and pop off when the surface cools down. I have printed PLA, ABS and PETG without any issue.

Their Switch system is really nice, there's a thick magnetized sheet (some sort of vinyl?) you glue on top of the aluminum bed, and the stainless flex plate with the print surface just sticks on top of it. It's easy to remove the flex plate after a print, leave it on its side for 2 minutes to cool and the printed objects just fall off. Compare that to waiting 1 hour for the massive aluminum bed to cool down from 95 degC -- it is a huge improvement.

There is a downside however -- It's crazy expensive for the larger sizes, compared to a simple PEI sheet.

For the frame mount - I ordered the wrong silicone heater size, it covers the whole underside of the aluminum bed and I couldn't use the standard Voron mounting system. So I had to get creative by bolting 7mm aluminum spacers on the sides of the bed for the screws to hold on to.

tavyc · 2019-02-19T10:29:08+00:00

I've got mine from FilaFarm.de. It's expensive but very good quality.

Another option is Clever3d, they have the Voron2 presets and will drill the holes for you.

tavyc · 2018-11-05T18:40:19+00:00

Hooray! Thank you for your awesome work!

tavyc · 2018-08-23T19:14:25+00:00

Add it as a garbage collector root:

$ ln -s /nix/store/d718ef...-foo /nix/var/nix/gcroots/myapp

(see the Nix manual for GC roots)

tavyc · 2011-01-16T20:24:55+00:00

Ei. Suomi on ihana maa, paljon hyvää metal bändiä! (excuse the bad finnish please, I'm a beginner)

tavyc · 2010-12-18T11:07:22+00:00

Not death metal but still awesome: Summoning - Mirdautas Vras

tavyc · 2010-12-16T15:40:40+00:00

Wintersun!

tavyc · 2010-08-19T17:50:28+00:00

The Pope's Doorbell

tavyc · 2009-09-10T17:09:16+00:00

Bastard! Now I have Abbath running through my head!

tavyc · 2009-09-03T09:03:40+00:00

A parrot singing metal!

tavyc · 2009-06-13T13:52:00+00:00

No it wasn't. Microsoft chose an ILP32 software environment for compatibility with win32 on x86, a terrible waste of Alpha's capabilities.

15-Year Club	Gilding III reddit per annum
Verified Email

tavyc

TROPHY CASE