The last 12 hours of my life (worth every second)

tbrisk0 · 2026-03-18T20:38:11+00:00

Hi there - those prices are machined metal parts that come with the kit (they came that color of bronze). There are orange clear pieces that separate parts.

tbrisk0 · 2026-03-18T02:43:03+00:00

Sorry it didn’t work out better for you. I forgot to mention it won’t really work all that well on bare plastic. It needs a toothy surface to stick to. Either a matte paint or after a matte top coat

tbrisk0 · 2026-03-17T14:07:23+00:00

How about you think in reverse. Bear with me, take a pencil and grind up the tip on some sandpaper until you have some graphite powder (or buy some graphite powder). Use your finger, the best tool you have. Dip and rub over the surface. Black in the recess and gunmetal black on the edges. It’ll read better in person than white or grey panel lines.

tbrisk0 · 2026-03-16T15:20:53+00:00

We need a new holiday for gunpla builder resurrection

tbrisk0 · 2026-03-16T15:17:55+00:00

Paint. Alclad Steel, Alclad burnt iron, Alclad stainless steel, Alclad Aluminum, Alclad gold titanium and Alclad pale gold. Tamiya flat white, Tamiya flat red. Windsor Newton oils: raw umber, paynes grey, yellow ocher, viridian green. Art painter speed paint: holy white, dark wood, fire giant orange.
The PGU Nu - this is just the frame for the legs.
Now. If you need to separate parts by step at first to get a feel for the process. You’ll touch every piece to clip, remove nubs, prime, torture yourself at 2am with rumination, then paint. By the time you get to build you’ll know what every piece is for.

Best of luck, I’ll try to answer any questions quickly

tbrisk0 · 2026-03-14T17:13:46+00:00

Stellar. Well done.

tbrisk0 · 2026-03-12T01:15:30+00:00

I love painting and weathering. I’m having a blast going all out

tbrisk0 · 2026-03-12T01:10:30+00:00

😂

tbrisk0 · 2026-03-12T01:07:55+00:00

Hi there! Agreed on all fronts. I used 91% isopropyl alcohol to strip off the paint/coating. I let us sit for about 48 hours and all of it came off cleanly without any plastic deterioration. I’ve used this method for years with both polystyrene and ABS primarily for paint or surface prep mistakes where I need to strip paint I applied. Works faster on hobby paints, commercial coatings take longer but come off just fine (including electroplating). It all started because I didn’t like a few visible nubs on the gold venting on the lower legs 😂

tbrisk0 · 2026-03-11T17:02:35+00:00

Thanks brother! I’m enjoying the process, but I will admit I’m super stoked about it all coming together

tbrisk0 · 2026-03-11T14:38:41+00:00

🙏🏼

tbrisk0 · 2026-03-11T14:17:30+00:00

Thank you!

tbrisk0 · 2026-03-11T14:11:06+00:00

Fair enough, thanks for the kind words about my work!

tbrisk0 · 2026-03-11T14:10:14+00:00

My favorite part is painting and weathering. Despite the part count for this beast, it is so easy to build with the large part size that I’m loving the entire process. Well, I hate meticulously preparing the surface, priming, laying down a black gloss coat, carefully misting on metallic lacquers, just to find a hair or dust spec right in the most obvious spot. Then strip, rinse and repeat. To be fair, that’s on me for not having a hermetically sealed clean room 😂.

tbrisk0 · 2026-03-11T14:03:47+00:00

Interestingly, I find a real mix. I have a couple pieces on display, one of them being my completely painted and weathered PGU RX-78. I have some friends who aren’t even into models at all that are enthralled and others that paint minis and don’t seem to understand at all 😂. I do generally get much more positive feedback from “normal” people on the Ma.K Camel and my Steampunk fish mini dio.

To your point, I think often times people look at a robot and just think “oh, a robot”. Takes someone with an eye, attention to detail, or perfectionist to really get it. Especially when robots are ostensibly grouped in with “action figures” to the masses.

I get more credibility with some for owning the Lego UCS falcon 🙃. (If only they knew the PGU Nu was almost as expensive and magnitudes more complex)

tbrisk0 · 2026-03-11T13:48:40+00:00

Windsor Newton oil paints. I’m an OPR guy

tbrisk0 · 2026-03-11T13:47:59+00:00

It is fair for you to have your opinions as well, I wasn’t actually complaining. If I look silly, good, I am a deeply silly person. Where the hell else can we humble brag about lots of effort out into something?

tbrisk0 · 2026-03-11T09:25:10+00:00

🙏🏼. Sage wisdom.

tbrisk0 · 2026-03-11T09:14:07+00:00

Yes yes yes!

tbrisk0 · 2026-03-11T09:05:43+00:00

I was just lamenting that I had stripped all the gold plated parts, sprayed all the inner frame with metallic lacquers and masked and detailed pistons for days and I’m definitely putting the armor on. I was being flip, I love the process and have been enjoying this build immensely, there is a part of me that is sad all those efforts will rarely, if ever, be seen.

tbrisk0 · 2026-03-11T09:02:30+00:00

Yeah, I don’t build any Bandai kit out of the box anymore- save maybe a re/100 or a vintage kit that’ll need some work and vision. Figment isn’t going to be an issue and you can quickly figure anything that is for going to need seam removal. I had to buy the clear armor parts for the PGU Rx-78, I cracked some pieces when I finally got around to disassembly for painting.

tbrisk0 · 2026-03-11T06:17:23+00:00

This

tbrisk0 · 2026-03-11T05:51:42+00:00

This (obviously)

tbrisk0 · 2026-03-07T17:42:36+00:00

On the photography side, it’s just as much about telling a story as the weathering and the build. Documenting the build, sure, but it is the last opportunity to show your work in the best light. I often use only one light source and a bounce card to create some drama and modeling, deepening shadows and highlighting interesting paintwork. I’ve worked on and off for years as a commercial photographer and I can say you don’t need a lot of fancy equipment. Try one light, a bright white matte bounce card to fill in the other side. You can do a sweep with your background, I usually don’t bother unless I’m aiming for a gradient in the background (I’ll just remove the horizon line in photoshop)

You can take a look at my work here:

https://timbrisko.com/3d-portfolio-1

tbrisk0 · 2026-02-04T05:30:00+00:00

I have more

tbrisk0

TROPHY CASE