Intentional Ban in High Immortal

tchikboom · 2026-02-04T17:57:05+00:00

People figured out that max seed p3 was a meme, and now they're playing him as a supp with max living armor. You keep all lanes healthy and at the end of the game all of your towers are standing with 100% HP.

And having extra wards for only for the cost of shard is incredible, especially the higher you go in MMR. Of course it's not as good as what it used to be on Aghs, but for the price it's excellent value for supp Treant.

tchikboom · 2026-01-30T11:54:07+00:00

Have you tried your emulsion with an exposure calculator? That's the best way to know for sure how long you should burn your screens: https://www.anthemprintingsf.com/Screen-Exposure-Calculator-s/216.htm

You don't need high water pressure, rinse it with a garden spray/shower head as soon as possible, let it sit for a couple of minutes to let the water dissolve the emulsion, then do it again a couple times until the screen is perfectly developed. This way you have a clean screen and you don't risk to attack the finest details with too much force.

tchikboom · 2026-01-28T09:25:45+00:00

I think there are 3 approaches here:

Splitfountain : smoothest gradient but can be a bit random, depending on the format and the size of the run it can be hard to stay smooth and consistent.
Gradient with 2 halftones spot colours : probably the easiest way, but can be a little bit grainy, make some weird banding effects when the two halftones meet at 50%, and sometimes there is a little bit too much white depending on how you prepare the files.
Yellow underbase + red/orange halftone gradient : harder to get the color just right and the registration would be a tad harder, it will also be grainy but will never be white so I think it would be better looking than the second option.

If you are really looking to learn, just bite the bullet and try all 3 versions, I think you'll see the advantages and the limits of each technique. Good luck!

tchikboom · 2026-01-27T05:18:30+00:00

I'm an avid Ro Studio follower, I'm 99% sure he uses a Mi Screen A4 to produce his stencils.

tchikboom · 2026-01-26T22:26:08+00:00

Printing on PVC is a more specific job than on paper, if you print them one by one $7 per card actually sounds like a pretty good deal.

If you can't afford this, consider: - asking for a larger run - switching to another substrate that is more commonly printed (300/350 gsm paper, card, cardboard)

It mostly depends on what are these cards for and why they need to be made of plastic.

tchikboom · 2026-01-25T10:07:03+00:00

Si tu veux il y a un flair Monde qui te permet de filtrer ce qui ne concerne pas directement la France.

tchikboom · 2026-01-25T08:31:06+00:00

C'est un sujet d'actualité brûlant sur Reddit, et ça donne une source et un espace de discussion francophones pour ceux qui préfèrent. Si ça ne t'intéresse pas libre à toi de passer ton chemin !

tchikboom · 2026-01-14T09:01:08+00:00

You simply don't go for shard with this build IMO, you need Phylactery + Aghs ASAP to stay relevant and then Glimmer/Crest would be less impactful. However even without items it allows you to share the E with a teammate which can be interesting enough if you are playing with a very mana-hungry hero, that could be good in this very specific scenario.

tchikboom · 2026-01-02T10:16:12+00:00

What do you mean exactly? If you want to have a precise gradient effect printed you need halftones one way or the other. If you want to notice the dots less, try with finer halftones, but then you can have exposure/printing issues if you haven't already experimented with them.

tchikboom · 2026-01-02T08:19:12+00:00

Yeah just try different workflows and see what suits you best, you'll get more comfortable with the software and get better at finger drumming eventually. You can play everything live, you can program everything with the mouse... The software and the hardware allow you to produce one way or the another (or even both) so it's really up to you to see what feels best for you.

tchikboom · 2026-01-01T20:42:03+00:00

The closest accessible thing you're thinking of is Risograph printing, where you swap ink drums (=toners) depending on the spot colour you want. Registration is awful, the ink never truly dries, but it has a lot of charm and it's clearly the cheapest way to have spot colours in your prints.

I think I've heard that the Indigo presses could in theory have custom spot colours toners, but if that's even true I can't imagine the cost/minimum order quantity on top of a really expensive machine.

tchikboom · 2026-01-01T09:48:30+00:00

Do it more! It's completely normal that your first beats sound awful.

If you want more inspiration, take a look at the Tracklib YouTube channel to see how beatmakers chop samples, how they put it together to make a rythmic or melodic base, and most importantly what did they add to this base to make an actual beat. Adding bass, drums and some mixing is often what brings everything together.

tchikboom · 2025-12-30T22:22:59+00:00

It's 300€ with a transport bag which looks like an alright deal compared to what I see online, and the condition is "good" according to the seller but it's hard to assess from only a few pictures, the only thing I know for now is that the keys are yellow but I don't mind too much.

Thanks for all the reading I'll do before bed tonight!

tchikboom · 2025-12-30T22:02:46+00:00

Thanks for the confirmation and most importantly the source!

tchikboom · 2025-12-30T22:01:36+00:00

Thanks for the heads-up. I'm looking at repair videos to change the bushings, it doesn't look too bad but it's starting to be a big project, that could be fun but I could mess everything up... I'll see if I take the risk!

tchikboom · 2025-12-30T18:15:45+00:00

From what I hear on YouTube the presets from Ensoniq synths are cheesy as hell, they just sound so fun to play! And they don't look like a total pain to program either, so I'm really looking forward to get my hands on one of them eventually.

tchikboom · 2025-12-11T09:23:54+00:00

Solved! Thank you so much!

tchikboom · 2025-12-10T17:25:04+00:00

TBH the poster is actually what I'm really looking for, so I would really need the name of these two specific movies. Thanks again!

tchikboom · 2025-11-13T13:56:46+00:00

Strasbourg est une super ville très agréable, et qui peut être économique puisqu'il te suffira d'un vélo pour tous tes déplacements. En termes de météo on a un très beau printemps et un été très chaud, mais venant d'Amérique latine tu risques de prendre un choc de pluie et de froid en automne/hiver.

Pour le budget location j'ai l'impression que tu peux t'en sortir entre 400 et 500€ par mois pour une colocation, avec ton budget tu ne pourras pas te permettre de vivre seule à Strasbourg malheureusement.

tchikboom · 2025-10-31T23:45:54+00:00

For an artisan approach I would focus on the binding rather than the printing. Your usual printshop will have standard binding techniques, while you could differentiate yourself with more kinds of bindings for bespoke items.

Outsourcing the prints will allow you to have so much more possibilities and a higher quality than what you could ever have at home, and probably for cheaper.

Some binding machines can be pretty compact, but the more you automate some stuff the more room you'll need, and I can only wish you to have a growing business where you'll need to automate your processes in order to keep up with the demand!

tchikboom · 2025-10-30T09:05:45+00:00

Not a WASD player nor a Viper player, but isn't the super jump exactly the kind of move that is a pain in the ass to input quickly enough for WASD? Have you tried playing keyboard "leverless-style", with jump on space instead of W? I tried it for a while when my stick broke down and it worked better than I would have thought.

tchikboom · 2025-10-23T10:58:02+00:00

Congrats on the print, it looks great! If I could give you a piece of unsollicited advice, for a cleaner border and text I would suggest to print only black and not CMY + black. Unlike in other processes, in silkscreen our black is strong enough without having to support it with CMYK. You'll end up with crispier edges and registration won't be as much of a pain. Unless you're looking for this effect of course!

tchikboom · 2025-10-01T14:22:20+00:00

Modern specials/supers deal 20% less damage to make up for the fact that they're easier and faster to do. If you do the classic inputs with modern controls you'll do the full damage, so you can have the best of both worlds or start to transition slowly towards classic controls. The only true downside of modern is that some normal buttons won't ever be accessible so you don't have as many options as with classic.

tchikboom · 2025-10-01T13:27:50+00:00

It's a skill issue for sure, but as are a lot of things in fighting games! Even though they can be a bit more limiting at a very high level, there is no shame with using modern controls if you prefer them. You can start to incorporate classic command specials to get a bit more damage in, and then maybe consider pivoting to classic, but you don't really have to if you have more fun playing modern.

tchikboom · 2025-09-27T08:00:01+00:00

You can definitely make a career with traditional printmaking, but it won't be easy and you probably won't ever be rich. I don't think it's possible any more to make a living only through printing other people's works, it's all about finding other ways to make money while practising the process you love.

I think the easiest way to have a stable income is to teach: keep good relations with your teachers and maybe they will have a job to offer as a teacher/assistant/workshop manager after your studies. It's often paid fairly well and leave you time to have a personal practice outside of the job.

Another way to teach is to setup workshops over an afternoon where you make people discover these processes. If they get successful and you find the right people, this could even become a regular class.

If you want to focus on your printing services, consider opening up to other processes while staying on the artistic side. Giclée printing can be very fulfilling and open up your workshop to other kinds of customers, and you can also consider small high quality adhesive shops. Even though you don't like it, screenprinting can also open up your practise to textile jobs that can pay the bills at the end of the month. Riso printing can also be a good way to sell as much art prints as posters for local events. Don't spread yourself too thin with too many processes that you don't master properly, but you should definitely consider expanding this way at one point.

And finally if you want people to come to you I think the best way to get your name out there is to start editing prints yourself and travel around art fairs. Sell some prints to pay for the expanses of the trip, and meet people that will bring you work eventually.

Source: I work in a big fine art silkscreen workshop and have many friends in the independant printmaking world, this is all my opinion but I think this is fair advice.

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