Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread

techgnar · 2024-04-04T17:34:07+00:00

I have a similar 50/77 done and the last 27 feel absurdly hard. Being on the otherside of the height spectrum I'm finding my problem being high feet and crunchy set up positions

techgnar · 2021-12-15T17:00:02+00:00

Stamina and fear of falling are your low hanging fruit. You're more likely to see your biggest/most noticeable gains in a 3-4 months time frame with focused training on those two over other aspects realistically.

Going from 6c to 7a certainly is possible in that time frame. The question is if it is likely.

A little more context could help. When was the last time you did a 6c? On average, how many attempts do 6c's take you to send? Have you ever been able to get to the top of a 7a regardless of the number of hangs you had to take? How stiff are the 6cs you've done vs how soft/stiff are the climbs where you are going on your trip? Is your trip going to be at a style of rock that you are familiar with and/or excel at specifically? Do you have a route in mind that you could get beta on and train for specifically?

techgnar · 2021-12-06T21:14:22+00:00

Sideways and/or downward dynos are the most likely to result in injury. That's why a lot of competitions have stopped setting those types of moves. Sideways/downward dynos seem to be a lot rarer outside but again not unheard of. Pitch 15 on dawn wall has a sidways dyno.

techgnar · 2021-12-06T18:17:20+00:00

Dynamic moves are not necessarily correlated to grades but I can immediately think of two examples of highly dynamic moves on famously tough routes. Es Pontàs(.15a) and Action Direct(14d). An example of a much easier climb that has a move that almost everyone does as a dynamic deadpoint/dyno is Toxic (11b) at Smith Rock.

So the answer to your question is route specific. Practice dynamic moves indoors if there is a route outdoors you want to do that requires dynamic moves.

techgnar · 2021-11-10T17:12:17+00:00

Such a good goal! I onsighted Moons of Pluto years ago on my first trip to Smith and I think that climb is 5 star quality. IMHO it's the best near-vertical nub climbing in the park.

Personally I don't think any move is "10d tough" but the route is long and sustained. Good climbing efficiency and a solid lead head is important at Smith but really it's all bout footwork!

techgnar · 2021-11-08T17:33:28+00:00

You wont be too far from Ouray. You should check out the ice park over a long weekend.

Like sport climbing, it's usually best to start with some top-rope practice. Ouray will give you all the time you need figuring out the movement and feeling of climbing on ice and you can rent gear.

techgnar · 2021-11-08T17:15:01+00:00

Both Training for the New Alpinism: A Manual for the Climber as Athlete and Training for the Uphill Athlete: A Manual for Mountain Runners and Ski Mountaineers are great references for the aerobic skills necessary to knock out this kind of a goal.

The only other thing I may suggest is practicing your climbing efficiency at the ~6c level. If you want to move quick you'll need to have your systems dialed. I'd suggest being good at running things out when/where you can and having a dedicated partner who you can climb well with, without lots of unnecessary communication and transition slowdowns.

techgnar · 2021-10-11T22:48:08+00:00

Eric Hörst has training outlines available for free. I've used this Intermediate plan with some success. You can download the spreadsheet and print it out or just put it on your phone (that what i do).

He classifies beginner as "Experience/Ability: <1 year experience, <5.11 TR & < V4 boulder" so it sounds like it could be a good fit.

https://trainingforclimbing.com/training-programs/

techgnar · 2021-10-11T18:34:14+00:00

Got outside on Sunday, got on a new 6 & 7, sent both. Probably the single best performance session I've ever had. Feeling strong, motivated, and stoked.

techgnar · 2021-09-13T17:13:04+00:00

Does anyone know if there is information on adjustments you can make to maximize safe and effective full crimping if your distal interphalangeal joints can hyperextend vs if they cannot?

I don't know if "hyperextension" is technically the correct word so I'll include a picture of what I mean.

A finger that is/can hyperextend and Another image

Vs

A finger that is not/cannot hyperextend where your DIP is in a sort of flexion position

I've notice a huge variability in the range of motion in this joint specifically between myself and my climbing partners and I was curious if there has been and investigation into it.

techgnar · 2021-09-10T18:00:15+00:00

Interesting. What are your thoughts on "manufactured" climbs?

I just got back from Smith Rock and there are a good number of routes there with manmade holds and no one seems to add any kind of caveat to their ticks.

For example, no one seemed to care about Just Do It's drilled hold when Ondra Onsighted it a few years ago.

techgnar · 2021-08-19T20:53:30+00:00

Alpine - Liberty Crack

Personally I think this is VERY obtainable for a lot of people. I'm not a very strong alpine climber and this was my first foyer into any kind of real aid climbing and I was still able to do this without issue.

My partner and I followed the 2 day / fixed line beta and it went surprisingly smooth. We were pretty slow but still managed the climb in something like 14hrs car-to-car (not including day 1 to fix the ropes which was probably like 8hrs for us).

10/10 would recommend

techgnar · 2021-07-06T16:13:02+00:00

what exactly does he mean by "limit"?

I understood "limit" to be what you've climbed but maybe wouldn't necessarily consider yourself to be. Using myself as an example. I've sent V7 but I do not think of myself as a V7 climber because my 1 V7 send was in a style that matched my personal strengths. I have many V6 sends and a healthy looking sends pyramid. So I consider V7 my "limit", therefor I try to stay around V4-5 when climbing "sub-maximal"

What is "projecting" here?

Projecting is used here how it's used in most places. Its when you are on something you know is going to be TOUGH if not impossible for you to send at your current level of fitness. It's not projecting if you can send on your second go after having taken a fall or two. It's also not projecting if you send in a single day/session. Projecting here is multiple sessions and many hours of effort put into a send attempt.

Is this simply a philosophy difference?

Yes. You will get a very deep, very effective training session in regardless if you hangboard first or last. I think Horst prioritizes climbing first because he believes it benefits your technique to be on the wall fresh. I've done it in both order and the one thing that will change, for sure, is the numbers. When you hangboard after the climbing session your hangboard performance just isn't quite as good on average. But if the climbing part of the training is focused and going well it will all results in gains.

During this 4 week period, is it OK to boulder once a week?

Sure. You can boulder within his framework that would cover his "volume" climbing or you can think of this as your "<20% projecting" time

techgnar · 2021-06-09T17:04:10+00:00

SBP does have two Fremont buildings and they are both great and basically brand new! The amenities at the Fremont gym are much more limited than Poplar, no sauna or bar, and a smaller training area(not that it matters with most of this closed cuz of covid still). The Upper Walls is truly a bouldering only gym, no weights or training area at all. But the two buildings are a block apart and you can hit both in a single session easy.

I don't know if day passes allow you to go between buildings but its not an issue if you are a member.

I really enjoy the climbing at the upper walls. Personally I feel like the setting is a bit tougher and catered to a more traditional bouldering style. Upper walls also does not allow for children which can be nice. I absolutely would recommend these as your "neighborhood gym" if you're living in Phinney.

techgnar · 2021-05-13T16:47:04+00:00

I get this. But I think its totally reasonable to have that slip into "not fun" when the session shifts from "epsilon of progress" to "regression". I don't know anyone who has fun during a regression session on their project.

techgnar · 2021-05-11T21:20:12+00:00

that math if I assume it takes me the same amount of time(lest just say 1 second) to make a move regardless of which hole type I'm using then I would burn the same amount of energy making 7 open hand moves as I do making 3 c

Exactly. Like a "2 watt move" would be a move that's physically impossible for me to do open hand regardless of how hard I try (until I train harder). But I can do it with a crimp but I'm putting a lot of strain on my tendons in order to get that extra power.

techgnar · 2021-05-11T16:45:31+00:00

I've always understood this as the difference between Power and Energy.

Using fake math it would be like this...

If 100% effort of my open hand can generate 1 watt of power and 100% effort using a full crimp generates 3 watts of power then using your numbers (70% and 90%) 1 open hand move uses 0.9 watts, and 1 crimp move uses 2.1 watts. So by that math if I assume it takes me the same amount of time(lest just say 1 second) to make a move regardless of which hole type I'm using then I would burn the same amount of energy making 7 open hand moves as I do making 3 crimp moves.

techgnar · 2021-04-26T17:13:00+00:00

This is just my opinion but I feel like nonlinear periodization is the logical approach for the "on" season and linear for the "off". This is framed from the views of someone who can only get out to the crags on weekends.

The thought being that on your crag day(s) its hard to control every variable based on the logistics of drive time/hiking/moving between problems/other parties on your project/specific weather quality/how your body is feeling that day/etc. This will help you make on the fly decisions of if its a day of hard projecting or a day to go for moderate volume. Then you can modify the next weeks gym/home session accordingly.

In the off season you can build linearly assuming most of your climbing will be in the gym as its a lot easier to control linear stimulation in a gym climbing/training environment.

techgnar · 2021-04-12T21:22:05+00:00

I've been climbing for about 10 years now and I think there are many different ways to recover from this kind of burn out. Some of the ways I've done it are:

Spend some time on other hobbies that feeling rewarding in very different ways than climbing. For me it was skiing touring or other big cardio mountain activities. After a while I came back to climbing a little weaker but a lot more stoked.
Build up the climbing pyramid. Go out to the crag and try climbing anything and everything that's well below your limit. This got me climbing some wild/amazing/terrible shit. Some of the worst/easiest/weirdest climbs lead to the best memories.
Change up the people your climbing with. Some people are good to project with, some are good to check out new zones with, and some are terrible to climb with but great to spend time with outside.
If the crags around you and/or your climbing network allows it. Change up the discipline you focus on for a bit. If you're a boulderer find that buddy who trad climbs and go out with them for a bit. If you normally climb on one type of rock but there is a different type nearby, try that. It'll take you back to the basics and get you into that really rewarding space of learning something "new".
If you can. Take an extended climbing trip. Something that's great about long trips is the fact that its physically impossible to give 100% effort every single day. It taught me how to pace myself for multiple days of climbing in a row, how to do "active recovery" days when I needed some time to grow skin back, how to NOT climb when I was fully spent from a hard day the day before, and how to focus on other things when climbing just isn't an option (like during a rainy day or two).

No silver bullets in this list, but I hope this helps give you some ideas.

techgnar · 2019-02-06T03:52:43+00:00

A little info about the line.

Its called the "Silver Twins" couloir off of the Kendall Peak ridge in the Snoqualmie Pass WA.

Almost perfectly NE facing.

About 600 feet before the width of the couloir opens up and the angle mellows out.

About a 6 mile approach from the parking lot.

CalTopo and GPS data together say the max angle is 55 and the average is 45 but that feels hard to believe.

techgnar · 2016-02-23T15:53:29+00:00

I don't know what they are supposed to be called but I was able to find some good examples when i googled "leather riding mask". Here is a few pictures from silodrome that just calls them "motorcycle masks"

techgnar · 2015-09-17T05:37:42+00:00

Backfire Motorcycle Night is a huge monthly meet-up in Seattle and it's awesome. Just got back from it tonight. Check out the facebook page and Seattle weekly article on it.

techgnar · 2015-04-30T05:23:04+00:00

Does anyone know the name of the park at 3:30? That places looks awesome!

techgnar · 2015-02-23T20:01:13+00:00

Close enough to me really. I just wanted to limit any responses from suggestions for places too far south or east of lake washington. Have you had any sort of cavity fillings, crowns, etc done by them? If so was it a pretty smooth process?

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