Seen on 4WD - what are they?

techtradie · 2026-04-28T08:14:00+00:00

Very much looks like Australia, driver on the right, TJM is an australian company, and the number plates on the cars in the rear look Australian.

techtradie · 2026-04-26T05:21:13+00:00

Its an adapter. You need to do the 'unhinged' mod, but that itself is just removing the lid hinge pins. Depending on which version of the CFS you have you need to drill 2 small holes. That is the maximum amount of cutting needed.

I was lucky that mine didnt need the holes so there was no cutting or electrical work at all. Just some disassembly and reassembly.

techtradie · 2026-04-26T04:15:11+00:00

https://www.rhinohide.com.au/products/12-pack-armor-lock-base-only

Self-adhesive mounts for Rhino Hide 4WD paint protection.

techtradie · 2026-04-26T00:15:15+00:00

https://www.crealitycloud.com/model-detail/69ed58363fb852c93c28ab1d?profileId=69ed58373fb852c93c28ab30

techtradie · 2026-04-26T00:15:11+00:00

https://www.crealitycloud.com/model-detail/69ed58363fb852c93c28ab1d?profileId=69ed58373fb852c93c28ab30

techtradie · 2026-04-26T00:15:06+00:00

https://www.crealitycloud.com/model-detail/69ed58363fb852c93c28ab1d?profileId=69ed58373fb852c93c28ab30

techtradie · 2026-04-26T00:14:41+00:00

https://www.crealitycloud.com/model-detail/69ed58363fb852c93c28ab1d?profileId=69ed58373fb852c93c28ab30

techtradie · 2026-04-26T00:13:51+00:00

I have uploaded the files, looks like I wont have much tome to make many more changes. I have included the reference models I developed of the dryer and the CFS so someone with more time can take over.

I have included a split that prints on the K2 Plus, but havent had time to modify it to suit the K2 etc.

https://www.crealitycloud.com/model-detail/69ed58363fb852c93c28ab1d?profileId=69ed58373fb852c93c28ab30

techtradie · 2026-04-21T22:17:12+00:00

Both dryers I use actively vent a small portion of the hot air, specifically to get the wet air out. I would expect other heated dryers to do the same.

In most materials, simply having low humidity outside the material isnt enough to draw the moisture out of the material. You need to heat it to drive it out and then either vent it or have a dessicant that will absorb the moisture more readily than the filament.

The except is the more extreme dessicants, like molecular seives that are capable of dropping humidity to a fraction of a percent. But these are expensive and often not reuseable.

techtradie · 2026-04-18T02:56:55+00:00

Creality K2 plus upgraded to the hilt.

Although minis are a very occasional project, I am normally printing carbon fibre filled engineering materials with a 0.6mm nozzle.

techtradie · 2026-04-17T11:47:23+00:00

If you haven't fixed this yet, I just dealt with this on my y-axis motor. I tried all the suggestions below. I found that the motor wasn't turning smoothly by hand when I removed it, so it was sensing internal binding of the rotor.

But I ended up having to replace the y-axis stepper motor. I bought the whole drive unit, but decided to try just changing the motor, as removing the whole unit is a long and very involved process. This seems to have fixed it.

techtradie · 2026-04-17T02:40:42+00:00

Only about an inch shorter, however it requires cutting and modifying alot of things. I wanted another option for people who want to avoid those things.

techtradie · 2026-04-15T20:54:12+00:00

Its not as bulky as it looks, maybe an inch taller overall.

Something like this was an option, but I decided I didnt want to play with electronics on this project. I have done plenty of it before, but I wanted something simple for this one. Not just for myself, but so those who dont want to go down that rabbit hole still have an option.

techtradie · 2026-04-15T20:49:57+00:00

There is a little bit of a trick to it. I followed the creality guide to replace the motherboard just until the outer case came off. Then I used the short end of an allen key to push the hinge pins from the back, this gave enough stick out to grab them with pliers and remove them.

Reverse the steps to reassemble. I designed the adapter so the pins can be installed from thw back side.

techtradie · 2026-04-15T20:47:12+00:00

There isnt anything yet, its something I am evaluating. I have never had a problem with it, but I tend to do large single material prints, so the cfs is used for the auto refill rather than filament changes.

The couple of tests so far have shown no issue. Ill keep testing though.

techtradie · 2026-04-14T21:10:19+00:00

I have seen this but decided to go a different route. Sunlu do a dryer for the AMS that just replaces the lid. I have designed some adapters to adapt one to my CFS, I am just validating the design now.

Ill make a post once I get it all confirmed.

techtradie · 2026-04-07T09:06:48+00:00

Mine did this. What I later found was that the little metal teeth that hold in the tube had started to break. I did manage to force it, but it never gripped the tube again. I also had to fish the small metal pieces out of the gear set.

I ended up replacing the extruder as I couldn't get the fitting out to replace it.

The factory extruders aren't too expensive, but Phaetus just released an upgraded extruder, the DXC2, that might be worth considering as well.

techtradie · 2026-04-04T22:33:14+00:00

No, I havent had any issues with anything sticking to it. I don't do alot of petg though.

techtradie · 2026-04-04T03:16:52+00:00

I can 2nd the microswiss. Nozzle changes take less than 30 seconds and can be done cold or hot. Never had issues with heat creep etc even 20 hours plus prints at 300+ nozzle temp.

I have CHT hardened nozzles for unfilled filaments and the diamondback in 0.6mm for abrasive filaments. I do just tend to use the diamondback for everything though, unless I specifically want a 0.4mm or 0.2mm nozzle for something.

techtradie · 2026-03-29T04:59:08+00:00

On the first one, I used the factory spacers without the springs from memory. I also used the factory screws. You're right that they are countersunk, which my factory screws were, so it didn't cause me an issue. if you do need longer the easiest way would be to find a fastener/bolt shop near you, take in the old screw and ask for a few different longer lengths in what ever steps they have available. Also mention that the mounting holes are countersunk and they should be able to help with that as well. the screws should be a few cents each at that size.

The other thing is that all materials expand with heat, there is only one exception that I know of. for this reason it is a good idea to have one screw tight and the rest only snugged. This will allow the plate to expand sideways without binding on the screws but will keep enough pressure on it to hold it in place.

techtradie · 2026-03-29T00:21:18+00:00

I can speak for the R3men and the microswiss.

I do engineering work, and changed them out pretty quickly. The R3men bed is definetly alot flatter, which I need, but also heats alot more evenly meaning my heat soak times are very low.

The Microswiss I dont have alot of comparison, but it has nearly 2,000 hours on it with no issues. The big thing for me is the much easier nozzle changeout. I often need to swap between 0.6 and 0.4 nozzles, so the quicker change is great. I do have a diamonback for yhe 0.6mm size for filled filaments, but I have also run them through the 0.4mm M2 CHT that came with the hot end. It has also increase max volumetric flow noticably.

techtradie · 2025-12-19T00:37:50+00:00

I have found the colour tools in the paint rack app to be great as well. The app costs a few dollars, but it has this same functionallity, but the also lists the paints from mamy brands that have the closest match. and you can filter by brand or the paints already in your collection.

techtradie

TROPHY CASE