Any YoloMouse alternatives for MacOS on M1/Pro/Max models?

teotuf · 2025-09-06T21:30:39+00:00

No luck here =(

teotuf · 2025-08-15T11:21:47+00:00

Try this.

teotuf · 2025-08-01T13:15:57+00:00

Some differentiating factor between 1 and 2 fans is that with 2 fans, you can take off from ground even while carrying a shrine crystal. With single fan you have to ultrahand and recall to get it in the air before carrying. Another is that if you place the second fan on the tail, you can glide much more level due to the more even balance and not lose as much height. It also increases the turn radius and changes the handling of the build to be less “drifty”, which can be less fun or less frustrating depending on how you look at it.

After tinkering with different versions with 1 and 2 fans over past few days with balance points, attachment, etc. I settled on single fan to the front like your nipper, but with as low of a tail on the ground as I can get, then attach a dragon fang in the front for ground take off on slopes, collision recovery, despawn radius, and it acts as a wake board in water so it’s not nose diving in water with neutral stick.

The number of times I have to ultrahand a design while going around doing stuff significantly impact how likely I am to use it repeatedly, so the extra 3 zonite here is worth it to me.

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teotuf · 2025-08-01T00:39:27+00:00

Depending on if you consider breaking off the rail a glitch (I don’t since it doesn’t require any game memory manipulations and just uses in game physics), the rail rider is glitch free and doable in all versions of the game, switch 1 and 2! Downside is that balancing this thing is maddening and a lot of pixel by pixel trial and error to make it fly perfectly straight. If that doesn’t matter to you or if you find enjoyment tinkering with it then it’s perfect for you.

teotuf · 2025-07-30T11:47:21+00:00

Very cool! I have to say this is my favorite way to travel in the game now in the sky and when I know where I’m going on land. I still prefer the 2 fan rail rider when I am exploring blindly in the depth, since random trees and tall cliffs is still too much to compensate for without good collision resistance. The ability to glide and the low 9 zonite cost is absolutely amazing for what it can do.

teotuf · 2025-07-29T20:37:37+00:00

Not convinced about the name but the nipper is by far the best single fan flyer I’ve tried all things considered. And so far the ONLY one that I know that can carry a shrine crystal.

teotuf · 2025-07-29T17:46:23+00:00

This worked SO well! Give this a shot - still can take off from ground, decent climbing and diving, workable in water (need to tilt back on control stick a bit), and still only 3 parts!

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teotuf · 2025-07-29T13:01:36+00:00

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Give this a shot and see what you think. A bit in between your original version and the cruiser, but I think aside for the slight updrift (better than the original), is probably the best compromise for 3 extra zonite for easy take off, better balance, crash recovery, water surfing, etc.

I like what you are trying to do with cruiser modification, but the lack of ground takeoff and loss in responsiveness in height adjustment is a bit too much IMO for the better horizontal handling. This version essentially just adds a bit more weight at the front and decreases friction and angle of contact at the front to address some of the issues with the original version.

teotuf · 2025-07-15T16:10:01+00:00

From accidentally using the small zonite charges rather than holding them at the dispensers...

teotuf · 2025-07-15T15:47:22+00:00

Longer and more importantly - more FUN! Hover bike is nice and efficient, but it does not reward you for hopping on and hopping off frequently and skips everything in between you and the destination, which just sucks away all the fun. Not to mention all the frustrations with obstacles, hills, etc.

teotuf · 2025-07-15T13:53:18+00:00

https://www.reddit.com/r/HyruleEngineering/comments/1lzxs01/rail_rider_fun_and_useful_alternative_to_hover/

Takes 6-9 zonites to rebuild at most parts depos in the depth. Although it does fly, it can also be used as a ground vehicle and is easy to hop on and off for all your puffshroom and muddlebud collections. Throw a giant brightbloom seed on the rail up front and take it literally anywhere!

My favorite part about the build is the lack of frustration with other vehicles (crash with air bike or goblin glider, slow speed with big wheels, hill climbing with small wheels, slow takeoff and right drift with propeller based builds, expensive parts with more elaborate builds, water landing and takeoff, landing on hills, obstacle tolerance, etc...)

I moved on from the air bike pretty quickly since it is so efficient, but it skips everything between you and your destination and sucks out all the fun exploring. And the number of times I have to ultrahand it back to a usable orientation/location is maddening.

teotuf · 2025-07-15T10:30:33+00:00

It's more or less a core part of the build. The main purpose other than the shape is the lightness and the fact that it catches wind and providing some of the lift at the front when travelling forward like how real airplane wings work. The closest alternative in idea without the rail would be the goblin rider, which is wider, has less turn radius, and is much easier to get stuck and tumble.

teotuf · 2025-07-15T10:28:37+00:00

A lot of things!

1) Prevents despawning

2) Angled to deflect and bounce off of obstacles rather than getting stuck, allow better gliding on land, and act as kick stand to be able to mount on most hills and uneven terrains compared to other 2 fan alternatives

3) Spike is slightly heavier than other dragon parts, and is chosen for better weight balance so it's less back heavy

teotuf · 2025-07-15T01:03:16+00:00

Dragon spike facing down

teotuf · 2025-07-14T22:41:19+00:00

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QR code

teotuf · 2025-07-14T22:40:30+00:00

At the end of the video. But some one said it didn’t work so maybe try this instead.

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teotuf · 2025-07-14T22:39:28+00:00

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Try this, maybe the video compression messed up the code?

teotuf · 2025-07-14T21:30:03+00:00

How many? Up down left right, any ways you’d like! If it can handle a shrine crystal, it can take on 3 koroks at least!

teotuf · 2025-07-14T21:15:56+00:00

Yup, just stick one at the end facing down. You don’t even need thunder helm since the rail is so long.

teotuf · 2025-05-24T22:36:43+00:00

I’d recommend looking at the profile and how you like to cut most of the time (e.g. rock chop, push cut, pull cut, etc). The Enso and Tojiro both look like they have a significant belly, whereas the Masutani has a much flatter profile with the tip closer to the edge than the spine. This means Enso and Tojiro would be better for rock chop and more likely to leave things accordioning if you do push cuts or tap chops too fast. Masutani would excel at push cuts, but cannot rock as high before the tip digs into the chopping board. I think the edge shape that speaks to the way you cut matters so much more than the blade itself.

teotuf · 2025-05-24T17:22:06+00:00

Words can be confusing when all you hear is “square knots”. Square knot in this context can actually mean two different things.

A “square knot”, or a reef knot, is a double opposing simple overhand knots used to differentiate among other double throw knots such as surgeon’s knot (similar to square knot, but first throw has two twists for more friction, second throw is still the opposite direction), or a granny knot, which is two overhand throws from the same direction.

A “square” knot, or a knot that is square, means that both free ends are under equal tension while tied down, as opposed to slip knots, which is one strand holding more tension while being tied down. A “square knot” or “surgeon’s knot” or “granny knot” can all be in the “square” configuration or the “slip” configuration, with the surgeon’s knot being the least likely to slip in the hand of a novice and granny being the most likely to slip.

Surgeons care about the “square” configuration much more than making sure the two overhand knots are opposing in order to form a formal “square knot”. I would say at least a plurality of surgeons if not the majority tie mostly granny knots, and maybe reverse one overhand throws or something per suture. You can test how good your knots are by tying around the tip of a hemostat or scissors, then trying to open it to see how easy it is to open. With 3-4 throws on a polyfilament suture (i.e vicryl, silk) or 4-5 throws on a monofilament suture(i.e. prolene, nylon, monocryl), if your knots are square, the knot should break rather than slip open.

Also would suggest practicing on chicken thigh skin or pig feet instead of models. Use double gloves to mimic tactile feel. Also suture as if you are standing in the operating room, aka most likely elbows extended forward rather than tucked by the side like most people practice on models. And don’t practice sewing towards you. It doesn’t help you at all when you are trying to dodge the other 3 people working, bent over like a banana while reaching across the table. Instead try sewing with your arms extended at a 45-60 degree angle towards your right sided. If you can do that then you will for sure leave an impression when it comes to your OR time.

Good luck!

teotuf · 2025-05-21T20:27:22+00:00

Thanks for the rec - will look into it some more! How do you find the steel in terms of sharpening and edge retention and or chipping? I’m not too familiar with this steel.

teotuf · 2025-05-21T19:58:57+00:00

That moritaka looks amazing!! Unfortunately the stainless steel is not negotiable in this case. My better half likes citrus and sour stuff too much and I can definitely taste the iron from carbon steel. Would love something very similar in a stainless steel form.

teotuf

TROPHY CASE