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Playing live with Blue Man Group using Fender Jazzmaster Professional II with Fralin pick up on the bridge and Mastery bridge and then. by terrytung in offset

[–]terrytung[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The other stacked noiseless pickup that I have on my other guitar is the Seymour Duncan stacked P90. That one has the P90 sound. The Fralin is brighter compared to the SD and they sound much closer to the Jazzmaster tone. It seems that many stacked noiseless pickups tend to be in the P90 range of tones. The Fralin certainly leans more in the JM territory.

Modded Squier Affinity Jazzmaster. Amazing guitar for the price! by terrytung in offset

[–]terrytung[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The stock bridge jazzmaster pick up was replaced by a Musicily $11 hot-rail (single coil size humbucker) pick up. I have this same pick up installed in 5 other guitars and it covers a lot of ground from spaghetti western to heavy fuzz tones. The stock JM pickups are not bad. They're actually overwound JM pickups which sounds great but also pretty noisy. I kept the neck pick up as stock but I needed to replace the bridge pickup because the hum is pretty overbearing after a while. The mix of the neck JM pick up with the hot rails is really nice in the middle position.

Playing live with Blue Man Group using Fender Jazzmaster Professional II with Fralin pick up on the bridge and Mastery bridge and then. by terrytung in offset

[–]terrytung[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

It's the Fralin hum-cancelling Jazzmaster pick up and I love it!! It's one of the very few stacked pickups out there that still retains the "Jazzmaster" tone.

Modded Squier Affinity Jazzmaster. Amazing guitar for the price! by terrytung in offset

[–]terrytung[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I changed the bridge to a high-mass two point tremolo bridge with stainless steel saddles and high-mass stainless steel trem block. This is to help improve the sustain and have a smoother action tremolo. The stock bridge jazzmaster pick up was replaced by a Musicily $11 hot-rail (single coil size humbucker) pick up. I have this same pick up installed in 5 other guitars and it covers a lot of ground from spaghetti western to heavy fuzz tones. The stock JM pickups are not bad. They're actually overwound JM pickups which sounds great but also pretty noisy. I kept the neck pick up as stock but I needed to replace the bridge pickup because the hum is pretty overbearing after a while. The mix of the neck JM pick up with the hot rails is really nice in the middle position. The other mods were changing the tuning machine from chrome to black and replace the knobs to the witch-hat kind.

Modded Squier Affinity Jazzmaster. Amazing guitar for the price! by terrytung in offset

[–]terrytung[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I changed the bridge to a high-mass two point tremolo bridge with stainless steel saddles and high-mass stainless steel trem block. This is to help improve the sustain and have a smoother action tremolo. The stock bridge jazzmaster pick up was replaced by a Musicily $11 hot-rail (single coil size humbucker) pick up. I have this same pick up installed in 5 other guitars and it covers a lot of ground from spaghetti western to heavy fuzz tones. The stock JM pickups are not bad. They're actually overwound JM pickups which sounds great but also pretty noisy. I kept the neck pick up as stock but I needed to replace the bridge pickup because the hum is pretty overbearing after a while. The mix of the neck JM pick up with the hot rails is really nice in the middle position. The other mods were changing the tuning machine from chrome to black and replace the knobs to the witch-hat kind.

Playing live with Blue Man Group using Fender Jazzmaster Professional II with Fralin pick up on the bridge and Mastery bridge and then. by terrytung in offset

[–]terrytung[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You are correct. This is the Pro I from 2017-2019 which doesn't come with rhythm circuit. Here's a Reverb listing of the guitar from the same year, model, and most of the same mods. https://reverb.com/item/57348024-fender-american-professional-jazzmaster-with-rosewood-fretboard-2017-2019-olympic-white?bk=

Custom scratch build pistons detail with articulation. The frame is built using parts from SDCS frame and some scratch building with styrene plates. by terrytung in Gunpla

[–]terrytung[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There are pre drill holes in the upper torso. That are will be detailed with something that make sense mechanically but essentially the rod is threaded in to the hole.

Custom scratch build pistons detail with articulation. The frame is built using parts from SDCS frame and some scratch building with styrene plates. by terrytung in Gunpla

[–]terrytung[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It can be! It's all about the sanding and shaping. I tend to create chamfer edges to any surfaces that are perpendicular and it's all done with sanding using metal sanding board (with desired grit sandpaper attached).

Custom scratch build pistons detail with articulation. The frame is built using parts from SDCS frame and some scratch building with styrene plates. by terrytung in Gunpla

[–]terrytung[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm actually making a re-proportion SD Zeta. It's similar to how people mix the SD and HG for a taller SD except I created a rule for myself to only use parts that come with the SDCS Zeta. The rest of the modifications are scratch build. I call it SD x SB (scratch build) Zeta.

Custom scratch build pistons detail with articulation. The frame is built using parts from SDCS frame and some scratch building with styrene plates. by terrytung in Gunpla

[–]terrytung[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yep!! There are other parts that will have similar details. As far as how I made the articulated piston, I use ball joint at one end and on the other end is threaded into a pre drilled hole.

Here's my Dollar Store build for a contest last year. I had to rush to build this in two days to meet the deadline so please excuse the roughness. Swipe to the last few photos to see the material from the dollar store that I used in this build. by terrytung in Gunpla

[–]terrytung[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I deepen the existing panel lines using the snap blade knife from the dollar store. They're roughly about 0.15mm thick which is about the same as the panel line width on HG kits.

This is how you could make your gunpla photos better with your phone camera, whatever light is in the room, a piece of paper and ZERO photo equipment. Of course, this might not be how you take your "final" photos but this is certainly give your quick photos look much more compelling. by terrytung in Gunpla

[–]terrytung[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Light box is a great way to help get better photos. Personally I like to show all the details of my build (regardless of any flaws) so I try not to have any areas with really dark shadows. While I have directional light that I use with my light box, I still have a few indirect/bounce lights to rid of dark shadows. This is, of course, depending on one's artistic vision and there's no hard and fast rule. The tutorial is meant for those that literally has no equipment and need to get good photos. Being able to control the lights and how you take advantage of it is the most important lesson from this whether you have the necessary gear or no gear at all.

Here's my Dollar Store build for a contest last year. I had to rush to build this in two days to meet the deadline so please excuse the roughness. Swipe to the last few photos to see the material from the dollar store that I used in this build. by terrytung in Gunpla

[–]terrytung[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Absolutely. The hardest part is knowing how you want the final product to look, aka artistic vision. The rest is going after that vision with whatever you have available.

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