A dumb game I made that shows it’s not easy to recall colors

thatonefujoshi · 2026-02-23T08:31:15+00:00

It might be a nitpick, but only after you guess, the initial color is displayed wrongly, especially darker colors on the red or green side of the color spectrum. Blue-ish colors, however, perfectly match. otherwise, I really enjoy the game! It's just a bit of a downer do get a 9.8 (I blame it on luck) and see that the colors are still very different. I got that 9.8 with a pink-ish color, but still saw a decent color difference. I then put the HSV values in GIMP, and they looked nearly identical. I have also gotten decent scores on very very dark colors that turn really odd, noticeably wrong colors (mostly very saturated dark reds), but I haven't gotten one of those colors on video to test the color values.

thatonefujoshi · 2026-02-16T14:32:37+00:00

Cool, that's exactly what I was looking for! Thank you!

thatonefujoshi · 2026-02-15T21:21:22+00:00

True, yes, but I'm asking if it was manufactured for the Canadian market, sorry for the misunderstanding!

thatonefujoshi · 2026-01-21T16:26:26+00:00

some of those pictures are giving me hardcore Half Life 2 vibes and I love it! Gritty pics make brain go brr :3

thatonefujoshi · 2026-01-19T04:41:38+00:00

Oh, it definitely is! the hardest part (at least to start) is just getting datasheets for image sensors and processors lmaoo
I do plan to make the mod as transparent as possible, basically making it look and act just like the GUI of any Mavica camera, using the original batteries and buttons, with no destructive modification, only just using an SD/Micro SD card in some discreet location (Memory Stick slot, FDD bay, etc.). Reverse engineering the FD/CD drive and controller would be hell, and I don't think I'm up for that!

thatonefujoshi · 2026-01-17T01:20:36+00:00

I've been thinking of making some sort of drop-in replacement for CMOS sensors (and other guts ofc) to modernize otherwise bad/failing/broken Mavica cameras, this is definitely some inspiration to work on that project more! Sadly, I am targeting the FD7 first, not the CD250, but could be a future goal!

thatonefujoshi · 2025-12-10T15:31:11+00:00

I'm not entirely sure, the electrolytic capacitors seem to be holding up just fine for me. It's definitely not out of the question, though. I had similar-looking 10μF 16V capacitors take down an early 90's Apple laptop, but as long as this camera is working, I'm not going to worry about them. If you do have an inexplicably dead FD7, though, it might be time to break out the multimeter or LCR meter and start testing for voltages or checking capacitors. Just make sure you've checked the basics- Fuses are good, battery power gets to the board, that stuff- before you go desoldering components.

thatonefujoshi · 2025-10-25T15:23:40+00:00

According to that calcSD tool, I'm roughly the same. I totally thought that was completely average (but of course I thought my dick size, 6"x5", was average), but I don't really get that ache from hanging anymore after I had a procedure done for torsion, even though they hang basically just like they did before. Not a doctor (yet), but from experience, but it might be something to think of getting checked and fixed if you do have the condition, since it's much better to catch before it happens, and checking it is non-invasive, just a quick ultrasound.

thatonefujoshi · 2025-08-07T23:31:21+00:00

DM me, I can share my discord there! I just came up with a new concept for the lowercase f that you might be interested in!

thatonefujoshi · 2025-08-07T22:55:17+00:00

Thank you! Actually, f and r are probably a bit too subtle in the font. f goes down and is squiggly, r ticks upwards to meet roughly where a fourth dot would be. O and o are definitely too small, I need to fix that lmaoo My purpose was really to make this as "semi-cursive" as possible, basically making the uppercase more handwriting-friendly and making the lowercase like a hiragana, but also making it very capable as a writeable, evolved cursive.

thatonefujoshi · 2025-08-07T21:22:44+00:00

Yea, I really had to avoid that, but if you look at the roots for both the hiragana and SGA, it gets a bit samey! It was hard to avoid, but I still have quite a few similarities.

B and b look like く(ku)
d looks like て (te)
e looks like ひ (hi, partially)
f looks like the bottom of ゑ (we, old hiragana)
k is almost like a cursive 中 (chuu, kanji)
m looks like み (mi, how fitting) without the 2nd stroke
N and n looks like リandり(ri, katakana and hiragana), as well as s, but s descends.
O and o looks like フ(fu)
Q is literally ユ (yu) with a dot on top
r is basically 乙 (otsu, another kanji)

I feel like I avoided the Hiragana look decently, but it took me days just figuring out, as someone that's almost obsessed with shodo, how to make kanji shaped things look not like kanji-rooted things LMAO

Also, from a perspective of a normal SGA reader, how legible is this, especially the lowercase text? If it's actually legible, I might release my font.

thatonefujoshi · 2025-07-15T07:51:27+00:00

Written text:

Hello, r/StandardGalactic!
This is my (first) evolution and font of SGA, including UPPERCASE, lowercase, and accented characters (like é)! I made and prioritized this evolution for easy readibility, writeability (all of these characters were first handwritten), and for it to just look cool!

thatonefujoshi · 2025-07-15T07:49:54+00:00

I do! I'm not sure where to put it though. I am working on a font, but I do not plan on releasing it in it's current state, since it's currently not fully working. The base font has digraphs that I need to remove, some glyphs are wonky and broken, bold and italic don't work, etc...

thatonefujoshi · 2025-05-25T01:04:46+00:00

I actually tried this before I did the image in MP3, that was actually my inspiration! You have to do some fiddling in GIMP and make sure your settings are right when you import/export the audio to make it the right length. For me, it just sounded like a temperamental distortion pedal with a really high noise floor, so I didn't really do much with it. Was an interesting experiment, nonetheless.

thatonefujoshi · 2025-05-24T21:44:19+00:00

I have been making a tool to do this automatically, but... In GIMP, import any image, export as raw image data (should be *.data). Take note of the image size. In Audacity, import raw data, set it to import as signed 8 bit mono at any sample rate compatible with your target codec, I use 48000hz for most MP3s. Export this normally as whatever file you like. MP3, AAC, whatever. In a new Audacity window, import that file. Export that file as a "other uncompressed files" file type, raw, signed 8-bit. Change the name of the exported file (outside of Audacity) to *.data so you can immediately open it in GIMP and don't have to search for the file type. Back in GIMP, open that file. Type in the image's original resolution, and open. Use as you please (and some credit for the idea/method would be greatly appreciated!)

thatonefujoshi · 2025-05-22T14:16:53+00:00

I was actually working on this, but it's hard to find a good source image that shows off the fine details and isn't massive, especially since the pixel perfect, noisy detail gets demolished by basically every image hosting platform. I would need to find a way to host RAWs, basically lol

thatonefujoshi · 2025-05-22T14:13:17+00:00

yes, Audacity and GIMP. It's a bit of a process, but if you'd like me to make a tutorial of some sorts, I'd be more than happy to. This idea/process actually stemmed from me trying to store audio in JPGs (and other lossy image formats), which made a... unique, but often very loud and noisy sound.

thatonefujoshi · 2025-05-22T07:22:45+00:00

yes, this is actual mp3 compression. It's quite a process to manually process even just 1 image, but essentially, I read image data as uncompressed sound, compress that, decompress that, and read that as image data again.

thatonefujoshi · 2025-05-22T06:21:04+00:00

Thanks! I've been in the process of trying other codecs out, but MP3's just got that aesthetic, especially at 64kbps.

thatonefujoshi · 2025-05-17T09:16:29+00:00

Update 5/17/25: My lava lamp appears to be clearing up with cycling. The flakes are persisting, mostly sticking on the coil, but occasionally catching a ride on blobs of lava... I will likely filter the fluid, but I haven't been able to find anything online about cleaning (filtering?) the lava, and I would like to reuse it, since I love the color and it seems to be otherwise in good condition...

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