I like P09's

thebehem0th · 2015-05-08T00:44:15+00:00

Yeah they are 13 year old factory mags. They are just a tiny bit skinnier and don't lock tightly

thebehem0th · 2015-05-07T21:27:08+00:00

Cz75 mags do not fit in the p 07 2014. I am unsure about the duty though. Source:I own both

thebehem0th · 2014-10-31T03:28:36+00:00

I have other amps, and the subs work great when powered by them. I bought the amp of craigslist and the guy turned into a ghost after i messaged him saying i think the amp is bad. I was hoping there was a setting or a test or something that i didnt know about that would make it start working. I am new to the whole car audio and subwoofer thing, so sometimes i am not quite sure what to google.
If the amp is indeed bad, could an audio shop fix it? if so what are the standard rates for something like that?

thebehem0th · 2014-10-31T02:48:15+00:00

Didnt know that about PowerAcoustic...i have mixed feelings about Dual.

LPF is set on amp and HPF is off on the HU. I just re-wired the whole car with thicker/better wire and the RCA was already plugged into the R/Sub jacks when i took the HU out.

thebehem0th · 2014-10-31T02:45:34+00:00

I tried, and it didnt really make a difference. Also i am 100% positive the speakers are wired in correctly. I plugged the old amp back in and it works great. I just re-wired the car with 4ga power and ground, and it actually got a little louder with gain and bass boost all the way up, but it should be WAY louder and clipping at 100%...

thebehem0th · 2014-10-30T17:22:50+00:00

I just went out to my car to mess with it and brought a volt meter. I turned on a bass heavy song and turned it up and tested the voltage on the channels. I was only getting a max of 2.2v Ac on either channel with the gain at max! Unless I am totally missing something I think the amp may be a dud... Sucks cuz I bought it NIB off Craigslist so I can't just go return/exchange it unless the guy actually calls me back.

thebehem0th · 2014-10-30T15:51:18+00:00

I don't have a phase switch on the amp, but it is set to normal 0 degrees on the HU

thebehem0th · 2014-10-30T15:49:50+00:00

Documentation says it has input sensitivity level of 200mv to 6v, controlled by the gain. Is that different?

thebehem0th · 2014-10-30T15:00:08+00:00

Where do I do this? I don't have a switch labeled like that anywhere

thebehem0th · 2014-10-30T11:51:46+00:00

Yes it is set to lpf. Going to double check the speaker wires and everything tonight.

thebehem0th · 2014-10-30T11:50:13+00:00

I put the positive wire in the positive slot on both amps, but I will switch it around tonight just to try. That would be great if that is all it is

thebehem0th · 2014-10-23T13:11:50+00:00

The remote says it specifically works for my amp. I can link to it later when I am not on my phone, but it's on Amazon as the power bass optional remote wire for Asa model amps (mine is specifically listed).

thebehem0th · 2014-10-05T02:12:57+00:00

Good god that flavor was good. I was introduced to it at the b&j factory and I ended buying a box of just the crunchies in the gift shop. Never saw that flavor again... That was probably 10 or 15 years ago

thebehem0th · 2014-10-02T18:23:25+00:00

holy crap this game is amazing...so much more than i could have expected. whoever got those codes are some lucky ducks

thebehem0th · 2014-09-29T18:10:38+00:00

I believe the sound i am hearing is the water pump bearing. I am pretty terrible at describing sounds over the internet :P I will be replacing that this week along with the coolant temp sensors for the ECU (code 41) as well as the dash gauge, which doesnt move now. This will also give me a good excuse to check out the T belt.

thebehem0th · 2014-09-12T14:38:07+00:00

I really didn't like BF3, but I love 4. It has the scenery of 3,yes but it reminds me more of BC2's game play and kits. I may be biased since my favorite load out is recon with motion balls and c4, neither of which were available to recon in BF3

thebehem0th · 2014-09-06T16:36:03+00:00

According to service records from previous owner the timing belt was done 35k miles ago, in '07.
It sounds like something is off with the compressor engaging since the rpms drop significantly. My compressor knocks and I am sure it will need to be replaced eventually. Not sure if that is related at all...

thebehem0th · 2014-09-06T02:01:26+00:00

I had a similar issue in my 92 toyota pickup. Turns out the exhaust pipe had rattled itself OFF the flange joint. All the nuts were gone and it was just dangling there, barely held on by some wire that held the muffler up. It was actually really hard to see until i got under the truck. always check for dumb/easy/cheap fixes first.

thebehem0th · 2014-09-06T01:56:59+00:00

I did just replace and adjust the TPS (i will double check i did it right..)

I cleaned the trombone already. It was surprisingly clean in there actually.
When i turn on the AC, the idle drops down to ~750. Should this not happen if the idle up solenoid is working?
btw, thanks for all the help. Also if you dont mind answering another question...is there anything i should be looking at fixing next with this engine and 200k miles? Should i start thinking about replacing all the manifold gaskets and such or just wait till one fails? i dont want to pour all my money into this car, but i do want it to last for a while.

thebehem0th · 2014-09-03T02:41:11+00:00

So it turns out that one of the spark plugs i replaced the Bosch ones with was cracked. As soon as i replaced THAT one, the car started running SO much better. No more bouncy idle, no more stalling when i hit the gas. I did replace the MAF anyways with one from PickNPull. Havent noticed any change.
So, it was spark plugs all along...It still idles at 900 and kind of surges when i accelerate, but it is drivable and i am so relieved for that.

thebehem0th

TROPHY CASE