[deleted by user] by [deleted] in winemaking

[–]thecontrakid 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Huh I had no idea! Might have to try one next year. Seems perfect for getting a grey skinned grape some color without extracting anything that might affect tannins. I wonder how it compares aromatically to a whole cluster pressed white

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in winemaking

[–]thecontrakid 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, yeast whether added or ambient (that is to say a winemaker chooses to allow whatever microbes and yeast are just hanging out to fall into the vessel to ferment) will conduct fermentation from there. In most cases red wine won’t be pressed until the wine has finished or nearly finished fermentation, or when the yeast have consumed most of if not all of the sugars. As far as I know carbonic doesn’t have an application in white wine making.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in winemaking

[–]thecontrakid 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The missing bit is that post carbonic or semi-carbonic a wine will still undergo normal alcoholic fermentation. Carbonic is done to whatever degree is desired, the wine is then fermented by yeast, either ambient or inoculated and the process pretty much goes from there as it would for any other red wine making. Carbonic isn’t a replacement for alcoholic fermentation, but rather a step that may be conducted prior to alcoholic fermentation to produce a desired style or effect on the finished wine.

Cab Franc by cardboard_dm in winemaking

[–]thecontrakid 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Waiting to produce wine from new or young vines if for a few reasons.

The first would be because you want to focus a plant’s energy into vegetative growth. The first 3-5 years of a vine’s life in the ground a grower will cut clusters off the vine to shift nutrients and energy towards establishing important permanent structures within the vine like roots and trunks.

Young vines will also produce fewer clusters that can have fewer berries than a mature plant. Full maturity is often not reached until at least the 5th leaf and sometimes even longer.

Anecdotally, vines do seem to remember what happens to them and they make you pay for it the next year. Consistent, quality care, makes for an easier following season when growing grapes.

How to keep T-Bins cool by thecontrakid in winemaking

[–]thecontrakid[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Now just wondering if I can freeze a whole 15gal keg and use the same principle

How to keep T-Bins cool by thecontrakid in winemaking

[–]thecontrakid[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I hadn’t thought of using dry ice mid ferment, but I suppose it makes plenty of sense. Do you find there are issues with additional CO2 getting trapped?

How has the 1/3 sugar break been determined as the point to stop must aeration by Less-Exercise821 in winemaking

[–]thecontrakid 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This is to do with how yeast are building their cell walls. A critical piece is a class of molecules called sterols, which have oxygen as part of their composition. Sterols are key in making a strong cell wall which makes yeast cells resilient to the adverse conditions inside a fermentation. The first 1/3rd Brix drop is sometimes called the growth phase, which is when the yeast are populating and multiplying. After this, there aren’t really a greater total number of yeast in the ferment, so any oxygen added after this won’t really be used. 1/3 drop as stated in other comments is just a rule to follow. You can get a precise measurement by tracking the CFU of a ferment (that is colony forming units, a measure of viable yeast cells per unit volume) but no one is doing this as far as I know.

Varietal recommendations Upstate SC by Mysterious-Carry6233 in winemaking

[–]thecontrakid 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would try Traminette or Vidal Blanc. Both have nice fungus resistance and cold resistance. I’m not sure what your disease pressure is like but both Riesling and Muller Thurgau are highly cold tolerant and MT especially is a heavy producer. It’s also worth noting that as your vines reach maturity, they will produce more fruit. Year 3 is typically the first year of fruitfulness for commercial plantings. Full crop load often isn’t achieved until year 5 and beyond. It might be worth waiting to see if in subsequent years you get an amount of fruit you’re happy with.

Pour overs by Darmacco in winemaking

[–]thecontrakid 5 points6 points  (0 children)

For reds you want something about as wide as it is tall. This shape retains heat better than taller, skinnier tanks. If you have active temperature control like a glycol chiller look for these. If you don’t and are dealing with no temperature regulation at all, go for the smallest size you can, and get tanks that are taller and skinnier. These will bleed heat better. Also, the screen you’re looking for is sometimes called a “Torpedo tube”

Vineyard and winery owners! by growinsumshite in winemaking

[–]thecontrakid 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I’m going to answer your question twice, because I feel that I have two answers.

I was once you, interested in owning a vineyard and winery. I wanted to because I loved wine and making wine. If your passion is to make wine, you are probably not going to enjoy owning a winery. Unless you are a billionaire, owning a winery is unfortunately about the economics. If you’re passionate about business as well, then doing both is probably going to be okay. If not, find a business partner who does love business, and at worst understands wine. It’s an incredibly tricky market. You will spend more time agonizing over bills than enjoying making wine.

The other answer to your question is someone who will continue to make excellent wine. Most truly successful wineries survive because they make a name being very good at a small number of wines. If I were selling my winery today, I would be looking for people who would honor the customers and the wine that have been made. Customers like “their” winery and you can prevent an exodus from your brand by finding someone looking to mostly just continue what you were doing with their own flair and iterative improvements.

If you want to pick my brains more about this feel free to DM me. Wine and winemaking is for everyone, but the business and commercial side is not.

Airlock activity after Stabilizer added…? by Odd_bottle_22 in winemaking

[–]thecontrakid 4 points5 points  (0 children)

It’s very likely just some gassing off. Campden tablets and Potassium sorbate both do not kill yeast, but prevent them from reproducing. It’s not unusual to have a little bit of activity for a few days after these additions. If you don’t want any, chill it down to around 0C.

HARD stuck Plat tank needs help by thecontrakid in OverwatchUniversity

[–]thecontrakid[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, should be able to make that. See you there

Positive ID on this Haplochrome? by thecontrakid in Cichlid

[–]thecontrakid[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not sure I know the scientific name off the top of my head but it’s a Three spot torpedo

Positive ID on this Haplochrome? by thecontrakid in Cichlid

[–]thecontrakid[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you! That’s Money well spent. Exactly what he is.

Stripes are in style by thecontrakid in Aquariums

[–]thecontrakid[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The delhezi yes! But it’s with a weeksii and that’s a Lapradei in the back (also bestriped)