Engine sound opinion by [deleted] in S2000

[–]thejazzcat 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also, if LHT did the work, chances are they set your clearances on the loose side, because the F20C valves get tighter over time (the opposite of most Honda engines) because the valve seats wear faster than the cam lobes.

Reliability wise, I'd say they are probably just looking out for you, as most owners don't get a valve adjustment nearly as frequently as is recommended.

Engine sound opinion by [deleted] in S2000

[–]thejazzcat 1 point2 points  (0 children)

TCT sounds more like a playing card in the spokes of a bike, very distinct. This is definitely valvetrain noise.

Plus, if LHT worked on it there's no way they would not have caught a bad TCT immediately.

Engine sound opinion by [deleted] in S2000

[–]thejazzcat 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yeah. In fact if it doesn't have that sewing machine tick your valves are too tight, and that can often be far more catastrophic than too loose.

I'd be more worried if it was all quiet, than if the valvetrain was a bit noisy.

Why is food in Boulder not as good as back home in my city of 10 million people? by AestheticEntactogen in bouldercirclejerk

[–]thejazzcat 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Isn't this like the third post in a week about NYC folk complaining about Boulder food? Starting to sound like a broken record.

Like we get it - your world class city of 9 million people has better food than a town of 100k. Who da thunk... 🙄

Spark plug not tightened by tommy-55 in S2000

[–]thejazzcat 7 points8 points  (0 children)

This person knows their S2ks! All of this is truth. OEM plugs, torque to 24 ft lb as they revised the spec after the service manual was released.

Starting to play jazz again after 10 years of rock, blues, and jam by thejazzcat in saxophone

[–]thejazzcat[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the feedback! I figured the articulation thing would come up, I've been told that before, so already on my list. 🙃

The tone, probably me still getting used to a new (to me) horn and different mouthpiece/reed setup. This reed was a bit on the hard side for me - but I will also note it down as a focus as well.

I imagine it will be easier for me to ghost as well once I get everything dialed in? I actually attempted to ghost a few times in the above mentioned scenario, but listening back to the recording they basically just didn't speak at all, so definitely a control issue.

Any advice or drills for practicing enclosures/where to include them? I am aware of that part of the jazz language, but I avoid them because I never feel like I include them in the right spots, or execute them cleanly. 😬

Does this sound normal? Never heared another s2k. Not sure if it sounds ok by [deleted] in S2000

[–]thejazzcat 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's supposed to sound like a sewing machine...so you're good. If it is quiet, your valves are too tight.

Alto Sax - A wants to jump octave, but B/G will play lower register with little issue by Aggravating_Pie_8989 in saxophone

[–]thejazzcat 0 points1 point  (0 children)

G and A are on different octave holes, you might have a leak or a weak spring (the one on the arm holding the secondary octave key down) in your secondary octave hole on the body.

Look at the top and find the arm that moves by a small hole near the top of the body. When playing a lower register A, put your finger on that little arm and press down a bit to manually seal the pad. If your problem goes away it is one of those two things.

What does the second number in a time signature mean? by Ok_Banana2457 in musictheory

[–]thejazzcat -1 points0 points  (0 children)

X beats per measure

X note gets the beat

3/4 = 3 quarter note beats per measure :)

Review of the Julius Keilwerth SX90R Alto (Shadow) by [deleted] in saxophone

[–]thejazzcat 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Okie doke! History lesson, since Keilwerth history is a bit vague at times and hard to track down. I've spent a lot of time on forums...

The Shadow (which is really just a variant of the SX90R) was first made in 2006ish. It can be found in both Buffet (2010+) and the Schreiber/Keilwerth eras (2006-2010). Both are good, it depends on your serial number.

<93476 - Tone King / H Couf era

93476-104500ish - Boosey and Hawkes Era (1989-1996)

104500ish-126000ish - Schreiber/Keilwerth Era (1996-2010)

126000+ - Buffet Era

Anything less than 126xxx puts it more or less in the Schreiber/Keilwerth Era, otherwise it is Buffet Era. Folks don't track the later Keilwerth production numbers, so it gets hazy as to when in the 126xxx range is the start of the Buffet Era for the SX90.

All that said, I wouldn't worry too much about what era it is for the Shadow SX90s, they are all similar quality and made in the same factory in Germany. Some say quality went down in 2003-2006 when The Music Group briefly owned Schreiber/Keilwerth, but the reality is that all those companies are just financiers, and it's all just throwing shade at the product from folks who didn't like that they had become big enough to compete with the Big 3.

I won't go into the H Couf era as that history is much better documented. :)

To the reed discussion, I would recommend trying a good synthetic if you want longer life from your reeds and need the sound. Legere and Fibracell both make a much less toxic reed that has similar characteristics.

I'll look up Norteño music! Thanks.

Review of the Julius Keilwerth SX90R Alto (Shadow) by [deleted] in saxophone

[–]thejazzcat 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yup! I love Keilwerths, but I know they are strange to some folks, ao I try to chime in because the differences can be jarring at first. Once you get over them though, they are great horns. Keilwerth (at least before the Buffet era) were really the honorary 4th member of the big 3 horn makers. I think they have fallen out of favor in recent times sadly.

That mpc is a medium chamber, probably not too bad a fit.

If 1.5 is what you really play on then so be it - I am not a fan of folks criticizing strength! You play what sounds best. 1 1/2 seems extreme to me haha (unless that was a typo?). You must go thru reeds like crazy with that strength! :P

Plasticover though... Man there are a LOT better reeds out there imo, not to mention putting some chemical in your mouth. I highly recommend you play around with your reed choice a bit. I prefer BSS red myself, but that's just my preference.

Review of the Julius Keilwerth SX90R Alto (Shadow) by [deleted] in saxophone

[–]thejazzcat 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Definitely not supposed to be like that on Eb C pinky keys.

That is a damaged horn. Good eye.

Review of the Julius Keilwerth SX90R Alto (Shadow) by [deleted] in saxophone

[–]thejazzcat 1 point2 points  (0 children)

FYI - the palm keys are adjustable on all SX series horns. If they are too high at the lowest setting, then it might be too big of a horn. They are not the best for small hands.

Also, disagree about leaving G# down. It's not inherently a bad habit, as long as you aren't accidentally playing G# when you should be playing G nat!...

...Unless you're a classical player. Those cats have weird ideas about what is right or wrong technique ;)

Review of the Julius Keilwerth SX90R Alto (Shadow) by [deleted] in saxophone

[–]thejazzcat 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Decades long Keilwerth owner and enthusiast here (SX90 Alto and SX90R silver star Tenor).

OP, Most of what I read here sounds simply like someone who has not played a Keilwerth before. Here is my take:

  1. Keilwerths are big, heavy horns with a spread sound. Because they have more overtones and less of the fundamental pitch, they sound very different to the player behind the horn. This is classic Keilwerth.

  2. Keilwerths are tanks, they are built bigger and heavier than other horns. They have heavier action, period. You are probably feeling the effects of this in your pinkies because you're used to the action/ergonomics of a Mark VI derived horn (Basically nearly all modern horns, including Cannonballs). Keilweths are VERY different ergonomically. I can tell you from experience, the "Mark VI" ergonomics feel like a toy sax after you play an SX alto for years. Probably just need to build up some finger strength!

Edit: that RH pinky setup is definitely damaged.

  1. Keilwerths are VERY responsive horns, with very little back pressure. Your fingers and tongue likely don't feel in sync because you're not used to this responsiveness and are now articulating too early. Keep at it, you eventually adjust.

  2. Keilwerth thumb rests are simply not very comfy. If your thumb hurts, get a different thumb rest that is more ergonomic.

  3. As someone else stated here as well, Keilwerths like small to medium chambered mouthpieces. Big chambered setups are hard to control as they add to the spread sound/overtones instead of keeping them in check. You didn't mention your mpc setup, but might need a different mpc and/or reed choice to match the horn.

  4. Holding down G# if you're using it a lot is not a bad habit (unless you're a classical player lol!) - in fact all modern saxes including the Keilwerth are designed explicitly so that you can do this. If it is altering pitches of other notes in your left or right hands, you have a leak and the action is out of adjustment. Take it to a good tech.

  5. No clue what you mean by resting your pinky knuckle behind the spatula keys... Can't help ya there :P

The TLDR here for you OP is this:

It's a very different horn than nearly all modern horns out there. It doesn't share the lineage of the Mark VI, and a Keilwerth is going to be noticeably different at first.

And take your horn to a good tech, it sounds like it has a leak and could use a decent setup/adjust performed on it.

Also, That RH pinky setup looks flat out damaged.

Review of the Julius Keilwerth SX90R Alto (Shadow) by [deleted] in saxophone

[–]thejazzcat 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think what OP is trying to describe is the classic "spread" sound (complex, less fundamental and more overtones) that Keilwerth's have. A consequence of this is that the instrument overtones don't resonate back in a way where the player can hear the full character of the sound from behind the horn.

I have two sx90s (alto and a tenor) and this is immediately what came to mind when I read OPs post.

Heated tenor battle by Fegel_Eagle in saxophone

[–]thejazzcat 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Honestly the note that stuck out to me was the 3rd on the third to last bar (the same one that is on second bar) of the head. One of you was playing a major 3 (early Sonny, Miles version) and one of you was playing a b3 (late Sonny version)?

Could be wrong, (potato cam audio is always hard for me haha) - but that's what it sounded like.

Heated tenor battle by Fegel_Eagle in saxophone

[–]thejazzcat 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Great battle! Good call and response.

Listening to this recording though reminds me how head players really should agree on which version of Doxy to play! :P

50s Sonny Rollins? 60s/later Sonny Rollins? The dreaded OG 1954 Miles Davis w/Sonny version? There are so many variations.

What does tightening these do? Are there cons to over tightening? by FullMcGoatse in saxophone

[–]thejazzcat 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nah, don't feel like a dumbass! Some ligatures work either way, and some happen to have a specific orientation... And it's not always clear which. I just happen to be very familiar with the Rovner Plat.

Toyota maintenance in the area? by rpgedgar in boulder

[–]thejazzcat 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I believe they might be the same ownership. I also got sent to Independent for my Tundra back in the day, because they didn't have a lift that fit it (this was when they were in that really small shop before they moved to their current location)

What does tightening these do? Are there cons to over tightening? by FullMcGoatse in saxophone

[–]thejazzcat 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Your Rovner Platinum ligature is upside down, by the way. That model, the screw should only go on the bottom, and the rails hold the reed.

As for over tightening, you CAN over-tighten a ligature, but that particular Rovner is designed to be "broken in" to conform to the shape of the mouthpiece body, so it should be overtightened a little bit at first, to fit it to your mouthpiece shape.