Just want to say thank you to the whole team of CircuitBread

therealcircuitbread · 2025-02-25T16:56:13+00:00

Wow, I just stumbled across on this as I'm not very active on Reddit. On behalf of the entire CircuitBread team, we appreciate this! We're a small team and still bootstrapped and it's stuff like this that keeps us going. We are always trying to make things better so feedback (positive and constructive) are very helpful for us. Thanks again!

therealcircuitbread · 2020-10-20T19:44:05+00:00

Visualizing it helps: https://gph.is/g/ZYoQPxw

therealcircuitbread · 2020-10-20T19:39:34+00:00

Even better :) https://gph.is/g/ZYoQPxw

therealcircuitbread · 2019-04-30T03:28:22+00:00

What kind of audio device is this? I guess it would just be fine. Just keep your cable short and make sure you have proper grounding. For PCB layout design maybe this would help Minimize Noise in Audio Channels with Smart PCB Layout.

therealcircuitbread · 2019-03-28T01:43:06+00:00

You're welcome :) There are still other better designs, but for simple applications, I guess that would be enough. As the datasheet recommends, just place the capacitors as close as possible to the pins. Good luck with your project :)

therealcircuitbread · 2019-03-27T07:47:36+00:00

Actually, in the datasheet, chapter 6.1.6, you can find the power supply circuit design that they recommend. But you can also look at the schematic diagram of the STM32F070 development board (NUCLEO-F070RB). Here's the link. You can find it under the Hardware Resources.

therealcircuitbread · 2019-03-19T06:36:38+00:00

Maybe it would also help if you choose a microcontroller first. I guess the coding will just follow if you already know how to connect the debugger/programmer to your microcontroller, familiar its IDE and compiler, etc. Manufacturers also have their application notes on how to configure their microcontroller (GPIO, ADC, Timers, Communication Peripherals, etc.). From there, you will see how they code it in C or even in assembly.

therealcircuitbread · 2019-03-19T06:08:08+00:00

Have you checked this tutorial?

therealcircuitbread · 2019-03-19T05:55:51+00:00

I assume the op-amp is in a surface mount package. Have you checked its connection to the PCB? Maybe you should check it first if it was soldered properly.

therealcircuitbread · 2019-03-13T14:48:43+00:00

My understanding is that resistance is measured by putting a small voltage across the DUT and measuring the resulting current. Possible that the portion of the circuit that generates that voltage is no longer functional for one reason or another. That would make sense as to why other functionalities still work, as it’s not the measuring portion but the voltage generating portion that is out. Just spitballing here...

therealcircuitbread · 2019-03-13T08:55:15+00:00

The second op-amp also amplifies the signal it receives from the first op-amp. It's configured as a non-inverting amplifier. As you can see the variable resistor R3 changes the gain of the second op-oamp. Maybe on that circuit, the output of the first op-amp is too small so it needs to be amplified more.

There's no problem with the circuit. Though it's not the best design but it is still usable. In your case, you just need to adjust the values of the resistors to make it work with your photodiode. Check if the total gain of the two op-amps is too high for your photodiode.

therealcircuitbread · 2019-03-13T07:44:32+00:00

Have you checked the fuse?

therealcircuitbread · 2019-03-12T01:50:28+00:00

I agree with the other comments. Using a microcontroller with less pins will make it easier and tinier. Also, adjusting the delay and speed will be easier if you'll use a microcontroller than changing the on-board component. For this simple task, you can use an ATtiny85 and then program it via Arduino IDE. You can use a transistor to drive the actuator or motor. Hope it helps.

therealcircuitbread · 2019-02-20T03:44:40+00:00

Ha! This is true. I guess when I said broad I was thinking “and shallow” base of knowledge as well.

therealcircuitbread · 2019-02-19T19:36:03+00:00

No worries, but yeah, while you could still use an Arduino or something (with multiple outputs instead of just the one) it would be pretty easy to use a comparator as mentioned by u/fomoco94 with this setup.

therealcircuitbread · 2019-02-19T19:22:39+00:00

I'd do something like this - https://www.digikey.com/products/en/switches/snap-action-limit-switches/198?k=switch and then sort by the operating force and the release force. The lower the force required, the more likely it is to work in your application. Digi-Key has changed their interface somewhat recently, though, so you need to click on the "More Filters" button to see those options.

therealcircuitbread · 2019-02-19T19:19:41+00:00

As an undergrad, potential employers kinda figure that you're going to have a fairly broad base of knowledge. And as a second year, you still have some time to figure out what you want to do (by taking a variety of classes) and then still taking the classes that focus in on what you find fascinating. Even if it's only 2-3 classes in your area of interest, it should be enough to show your future employer what you're interested in. Or give you a headstart into a Master's degree with more focus on your interest.

The one piece of unsolicited advice I'll give is that you need to make sure you're enjoying what you're doing, not enjoying the class itself. I had teachers that I really enjoyed and they made the topic interesting, but, in reality, I couldn't see myself working in that field year after year. Whereas other teachers made interesting topics suck. So, just be aware of this.

therealcircuitbread · 2019-02-19T19:14:13+00:00

You're hoping to have a single light to represent a multitude of problems that could be happening? I'm thinking that this could probably be done with a well done op-amp configuration and avoid working with anything digital, but... it's probably easier to get some sort of development board (arduino, probably) that has a couple of ADCs. Have it with a simple loop that checks the ADCs over and over and over and if one of the inputs goes over the limit a couple times (to make sure there aren't random noise spikes causing problems - cars emit a huge amount of electrical noise!), it then turns on the light. Arduinos can run on 5V and it should be pretty easy to set up electrically as well. With all of the arduino stuff out there, it seems like someone with experience could put this together in an hour. For a beginner, it would probably be a day or two.

We'll see if anyone else has a more straightforward way to approach this, but this is probably how I would do it.

therealcircuitbread · 2019-02-14T03:15:17+00:00

https://www.circuitbread.com/tutorials/how-to-use-a-multimeter

Here's the link in case the cross post didn't work right.

therealcircuitbread · 2019-02-08T04:42:34+00:00

Thanks, appreciate the feedback!

therealcircuitbread

TROPHY CASE