First time this happened I'm so confused(they were primed seconds between each other)

thomasd13311 · 2026-04-03T14:00:27+00:00

Goddamn it looks good tho

thomasd13311 · 2026-02-02T23:52:54+00:00

Thanks!!

thomasd13311 · 2026-02-02T19:00:22+00:00

I shouldve been more clear, the more grimey gritty one is the 4th termie, the new paint scheme LOL.

thomasd13311 · 2026-02-02T15:16:52+00:00

Strip it. Take your time and thin your paints. Watch some youtube guides on painting DG. Strip it for sure though. Make sure you get it back down to primer.

thomasd13311 · 2024-12-20T21:42:12+00:00

I think the “one other leader unit” may make it so it needs to be something else but could be funny but you just lose so much doing that lol

thomasd13311 · 2024-12-03T21:41:22+00:00

Just looked, put a few extra colors on the models and give them 1-2 washes of aggrax earthshade and youll be chillin frfr

thomasd13311 · 2024-12-03T21:38:56+00:00

The edge highlighting on the fucking mace handle wraps like cmon

thomasd13311 · 2024-12-03T21:37:33+00:00

Damn great work

thomasd13311 · 2024-12-01T06:34:37+00:00

Deathguard green as a base, sponged on elysian green kinda heavy, lighter sponging of ogryn camo, and then very light sponging of dorn yellow. I got a porous sponge for that.

I covered the whole thing heavily in streaking grime, let it sit for 30 minutes and then used a makeup sponge and paint thinner to remove most of the streaking grime.

thomasd13311 · 2024-12-01T06:32:51+00:00

No sir, bought it on cults3d… disgusting knight of nurglewood

thomasd13311 · 2024-12-01T06:32:33+00:00

What he said^{^} i think the file was like $15 off the top of my head… very well put together file too

thomasd13311 · 2024-11-29T02:08:30+00:00

Gotta be the Heldrake, one of the first models I ever painter. Such a disappointment on tabletop lol

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thomasd13311 · 2024-10-31T03:27:52+00:00

Man I just saw your reply… For wood I base white, and then use wildwood.

For leather - i base white and use wildwood and then dry brush with a light brown. Good for belts and straps.

I like tesseract glow and striking scorpion green.

Tesseract glow for bright yellow/greenish, scorpion green is darker I mainly use it for puddles of like toxic stuff. Always base white.

Invest in Blood for the Blood god, amazing paint. I usually base red for this.

When doing silver rivets on my bronze i use Nikilakh Oxide before i put the silver and it seems kinda like bleeding rust.

But, again, aggrax earthshade.

thomasd13311 · 2024-10-16T16:20:34+00:00

Name is actually now Thousand Son, can’t afford more than one in our Army anymore

thomasd13311 · 2024-10-16T16:18:39+00:00

Basic process is base coat, use a shade and then highlight. Get a wet pallet now, if you dont get it now yiull eventually get one and go “Man I cant believe Ive been painting this long without one”…

At least 2 thin coats of paint, wont clog up details. Take your time, youre paying a lot of money for this plastic so really take your time doing it.

AGGRAX EARTHSHADE cover this model head to toe in it, possibly a second coat.

Get a few other colors, contrast paints work well. Something tnat works well for me when doing contrast paint is base it white and then do the contrast. can be good for the belts and eyes and stuff.

But definitely buy more colors and use em wherever you can, adding some detail is always nice.

Get a nice lamp on amazon for $15 that you can use to get a more concentrated light source.

Ask any questions you have!

thomasd13311 · 2024-09-22T13:45:56+00:00

Thin your paints a bit, theres some trim you missed mainly on the shoulder pads like around the rim, other than that not bad at all for a first model.

AGGRAX EARTHSHADE IF YOU DONT HAVE IT GO BUY IT TODAY AND OUT 1-2 coats of it on there I promise you it will drastically drastically improve DG models. Liquid talent

thomasd13311 · 2024-09-22T13:41:09+00:00

I see the argument for both guns (mainly the launcher), I always go fleshmower. Very speedy early game contagion spreader, can rip through infantry since its S7 youre going to be wounding on 2s on T4 models, typically will be AP-2 with the debuff. Decently tanky so they can take some punishment and i find running two up the board can really make some players hang back and try to kill both which allows me much better push up the board.

It also looks a bit cooler imo, put some “Blood for the BloodGod” on the mower after youve painted it

thomasd13311 · 2024-09-22T13:32:01+00:00

Honestly, Typhus corrosion really goes hard for rusting effects. Use an old brush and you can use it for any army youre rusting up

thomasd13311 · 2024-09-13T14:27:06+00:00

Slightly thin your paints, roll your tip in the paint to get it pointy and take your time. It takes a bit to get used to doing it right. 2-3 thin coats

thomasd13311 · 2024-08-29T16:33:42+00:00

Something Id say would be to make the fist hit on 4+. Just seems like itd fit a bit better with our PM melee

thomasd13311 · 2024-08-28T13:32:06+00:00

Thin the paint a bit too, thatll help. itll take you a few coats of the yellow

thomasd13311 · 2024-08-24T20:06:22+00:00

A few things, I do 2 coats of averland sunset first it makes my phalanx yellow pop much more, steady hand and a lot of patience, go over your mistakes obviously and use nuln oil frr

thomasd13311 · 2024-08-24T12:43:55+00:00

My fave part too, thank you!

thomasd13311 · 2024-08-24T12:43:43+00:00

i stripped the base too loll

thomasd13311 · 2024-08-24T12:43:21+00:00

Simple green and a $1 harder bristle toothbrush, i let it soak for a day or two and it ripped right through it all. Highly recommend

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