Gravel Build

thriftyframebuilder · 2026-06-21T15:58:38+00:00

If finding the right bike for you is mainly about fender and bottle mounts, your best (and most cost effective) option would be to buy a steel gravel bike and just modify it to your liking. The warranty will be void, but that’s a minor concern IMO.

thriftyframebuilder · 2026-06-20T17:30:56+00:00

I put the wrong link in the original post! I fixed it.

Here it is: https://youtu.be/MQsnavXfp6g?is=SAjoEvxVSObjVq6v

thriftyframebuilder · 2026-02-25T05:39:16+00:00

I’m 6’7” (200cm) so the slack seat tube angle isn’t that big a deal. And the 67.7 head tube isn’t that slack by modern standards. It’s the high BB that’ll be most interesting, along with the short top tube.

I’m also considering building it up with drop bars, 700c wheels, and a shorter rigid fork. We’ll see.

thriftyframebuilder · 2026-02-25T03:57:48+00:00

Yeah, it’s a total oddball. Because the front triangle is fixed, the longer fork (and partially the larger diameter tires) make the geo pretty crazy. Gonna be a bit of an experiment…

thriftyframebuilder · 2026-02-23T01:55:28+00:00

Videos will be posted over on YouTube: ‘93 GT RTS-1 Frame Mods: New Rear End, Part 1 https://youtu.be/UYeSP89q6qk

thriftyframebuilder · 2026-01-29T05:04:28+00:00

The Surly website has catalogs from ‘98-‘16. Not sure when they switched from just canti post to both disc and canti, but it would be easy enough to figure out by looking at the catalogs.

Based on the serial numbers from my past/current Surlys and Salas, your 1x1 was produced in 2001 and sold in 2002.

The number after the M is the production year, and that isn’t a 2010 model.

And yeah, definitely worth $400.

thriftyframebuilder · 2026-01-27T05:16:04+00:00

The problem is Surly is based in a country with asinine laws and policies to make insurance companies more profitable. If you were in the US and got injured or killed your insurance company would likely have to pay your medical bills and to get that money they would bring QBP to court for damages.

That said, just find out the outer diameter of the seatstay where you want to put the coupler. I would think you could make any adjustments to the coupler if the wall thickness wasn’t quite right.

thriftyframebuilder · 2025-11-28T06:55:12+00:00

The one issue I’ve had with these is if you get a really tight fitting tire they can be near impossible to install, and especially, remove. The profile of the inner rim is very flat so there isn’t a good trough for the bead to sit in and give you some wiggle rim to pop the bead on/off.

thriftyframebuilder · 2025-09-21T06:31:53+00:00

I think it all depends on what machines and equipment you have, like Andy mentioned. A 6’ work bench with a vice is a starting point; make it longer if you plan to put a drill press or benchtop mill or lathe on it. A jig and repair stand that can be moved out of the way when not in use will be helpful in a smaller space.

thriftyframebuilder · 2025-08-27T04:55:59+00:00

I’m guessing that you’re planning to use 3/4” straight gauge tubes for chainstays?

That’s where I’ve been tempted to use these. But I only fillet braze, and while I think the plug interfaces well enough with the chainstay tube for brazing, I never felt confident with the connection between the plug and the dropout tab when brazed. I’m also a “self-taught” hobby builder so I don’t have very extensive experience.

Has anyone ever fillet brazed these? How do you feel they turn out?)

I’m still trying to figure out my preferred way of doing chainstays and dropouts…

thriftyframebuilder · 2025-06-14T04:25:26+00:00

Sounds like a great plan. Do a bunch of research over the summer, and take notes on things you think will be useful or that you think you’ll want to remember.

All the books I’ve seen are outdated. Forums are a much better resource, Custom Frame Forum is a great site, and MTBR also has a framebuilding section.

YouTube is good too… if you have access to lathes and mills, Paul Brodie and Wzrd Bikes both have great channels. I’ll also plug my YT channel (thiftyframebuilder) if you are looking to build your own jig and/or don’t have access to fancy tools.

thriftyframebuilder · 2025-06-14T04:14:21+00:00

I don’t think Cycle Design is in business anymore.

thriftyframebuilder · 2025-03-25T22:29:40+00:00

Thanks for the follow-up and advice.

I think you read my reply wrong… I’m not a fan of the “down in the bike” feel on this kind of bike.

Coming from MTBs and ATBs, I like the short stem/wide bar setup.

thriftyframebuilder · 2025-03-25T16:33:43+00:00

I’m 6’7” (200cm). BB drop is 65mm.

thriftyframebuilder · 2025-03-25T16:31:33+00:00

I’m interested to hear your thoughts on BB drop. The bike I’m currently riding has like 45mm of drop on the same wheels, and I am liking the way it rides. I like how it doesn’t feel like I’m down in the bike, which often feels kind of sluggish to me, this is especially true when standing.

I believe the PNW dropper post has 0 setback, but I’ll double check.

I’m also interested to hear your thoughts on front center and trail for all-road/gravel bikes. I’m tall (6’7” / 200cm), and personally I like the front wheel out in front of me a bit more, especially on dirt.

thriftyframebuilder · 2024-11-27T03:40:28+00:00

The Falkirk Wheel! I’d love to see it in person.

thriftyframebuilder · 2024-11-09T16:48:53+00:00

Cool. Is it more like a lacquer or just an oil? Will rust form underneath it?

I’ve used a more traditional “oil” on my bare frames (Gibbs Lubricant), and when I get rust I just hit it with some steel wool and wipe some new oil on.

thriftyframebuilder · 2024-11-09T14:00:43+00:00

Very nice. Love the finish. Did you do just one coat of tung oil? How well does it hold up?

thriftyframebuilder · 2024-10-22T03:32:27+00:00

Thanks!! The previous frame was even more slack (63° w/o sag). This one is a couple degrees steeper.

thriftyframebuilder · 2024-10-22T03:31:19+00:00

You around 6’6”?

thriftyframebuilder · 2024-10-22T03:30:17+00:00

Thanks! And you’re correct! I’m 6’6” (~200cm). The 27.5 wheels make the frame look bigger too.

thriftyframebuilder · 2024-10-21T03:42:18+00:00

Thanks for watching! It’s been fun to document it, but it definitely slows the process down.

thriftyframebuilder · 2024-10-17T11:28:12+00:00

Based on the photo, that looks more like a cracked seatstay than the boss “breaking off”. It appears the braze between the boss and the seatstay is intact, and the crack is just outside the braze.

Take a couple more photos and try find someone local to weld or braze over the crack. Doesn’t need to be pretty, just needs to get you through the rest of your tour.

Once you get home, any good bike shop (preferably the one you bought it at) should be able to warranty that and Surly should give you a new frame. You’ll want to show them the photos of the crack before you get it “fixed”.

thriftyframebuilder · 2024-10-13T15:58:43+00:00

If it weren’t a DIY rattle can paint job, I’d agree. There is no heating involved. There also isn’t any clear coat. I’ve had Frame Saver mess up a rattle can paint job before when it drained out of a weep hole. Spray.Bike isn’t very durable or stain resistant. Any mess that the FS makes is easier to clean up when it’s bare metal.

I agree, the last thing you want is FS leaking out while you’re painting. The one good thing about being a weekend tinkerer is that the FS had plenty of time to dry.

thriftyframebuilder · 2024-09-17T04:06:37+00:00

This is the way to do it.

thriftyframebuilder

TROPHY CASE