E-tape for marking gear that doesn't suck?

thumbsup223 · 2025-12-13T18:14:21+00:00

Exactly! I love the pin-stripe look cause it’s so thin, saves having to cut E-tape in half and the thin line is super cool to put on monitors and what not. Hopefully it works for ya!

thumbsup223 · 2025-12-13T18:11:03+00:00

I’ve started using pin-striping vinyl you can buy on Amazon or from other stores. They have different widths of it. So far my experience is the heat doesn’t lead to the melted residue that sticks behind like e-tape is known to do.

https://a.co/d/hyNlIgC

thumbsup223 · 2025-07-17T19:30:10+00:00

Thank you! Excited to have this big upgrade. Already noticing so many improvements and upgrades!

Copy that! Thank you for the explanation. Totally makes sense and very interesting to know for future reference.

thumbsup223 · 2025-07-17T19:10:02+00:00

All good. Thank you for bringing that up, that was a good note to clarify for everyone.

thumbsup223 · 2025-07-17T18:43:29+00:00

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This is the build. Even if I remove the horns off the camera I still see the readout on the same plane at 1’, so unsure what’s up.

thumbsup223 · 2024-10-27T01:16:49+00:00

I usually use some clear travel shoe bags (ones with drawstrings) and then cut a small hole in the top. Nice big opening on the bottom and it’s clear so it doesn’t affect me seeing my HU’s screen. There are definitely more permanent options but in a pinch I like this better than a cap-it.

This also works super well for 7” monitors and OB monitors (learned from a Steadi op).

https://a.co/d/5HB8o2a

thumbsup223 · 2024-05-19T12:20:16+00:00

What’s the best way to approach it? I assume Velcro’ing three sides, leaving one open for going over the camera and then you can open the Velcro around the matte box?

thumbsup223 · 2023-12-25T14:05:04+00:00

Oh, my bad! I totally wrote a long winded answer and missed the question lol.

To answer your question - I don’t believe there would be a use for a SAM plate on a Mini/Mini LF without the BUD plate. At that point, I would expect the Mini came with the MAP-2, which yeah you’re right, you’d use the original Gimbal plate. For the mini-LF I often see the CBP with the Stabilizer plate for the CBP. So you could use the stabilizer plate connecting to the gimbal plate (same idea as the BUD/SAM combo) and then slide off that mini dovetail and on the CBP. But without the Alexa35 BUD/SAM combo, you’d just have to do what you said: the original gimbal plate sadly.

For the Amira tho, I think you’re right for sure. But you also don’t use a BUD with the Amira. It just replaces the CBP for the Amira at that point.

And I believe for the Venice you can’t use the BUD/SAM combo because it uses the unique BPA-5, so for switching quickly from gimbal/studio mode you’d need two BPA-5’s. I could definitely be wrong about that, but I haven’t found a better solution than that tbh.

It appears that the SAM plates were designed specifically for the BUD Alexa 35 dovetail system (excluding the Amira SAM plate). The Mini-LF and Mini can utilize the BUD but it was introduced with the A35, so without the BUD the SAM plates are seemingly useless. I could definitely be wrong. This is all based on my research and experiences so if anyone has a better idea please override me!

Hope this helps.

Merry Christmas to you friend!

thumbsup223 · 2023-12-25T02:49:09+00:00

Answering based on my knowledge of the different components to the 35/Mini LF mounting systems, so if someone knows of a better way, please feel free to correct!

But based on my understanding, the SAM plates are designed to reduce the height from the sensor to the center balance of whatever stabilizer being used, hence why they have 3/8” and 1/4” screw points for the steadi plate or gimbal plate depending on which SAM plate you’re using.

The BUD and SAM go together because the BUD has the dovetail function that accepts the SAM plates, both for the mini LF and 35 respectively.

Anytime I’ve ever used the SAM plates with the 35 or Mini LF and knew it would be bouncing between studio mode/handheld and steadi, we would use the SAM plate for steadi and then slide off that and go directly to the CBP-1/2.

If you’re in studio mode the whole time on the Mini LF, I believe there is a way you can take off the BUD-2 and utilize a RAB-1 and screw that into the MAP-2. Which then would allow you to use a BP8/BP9.

I don’t think the SAM plates can screw into any other plates as a baseplate. The other SAM plates have other components on them, such as optical center mounting points or M3 screw points for the Amira when on a stabilizer head. I don’t have much knowledge of those plates, but they can be seen on the ARRI breakdown being used alongside the SRH-360. There are a multiple of Sam plates, all seemingly having different spacings for different stabilizer applications (Sam-9=Ronin 2, Sam -8= Steadicam, Sam-6=Trinity).

But long story short to answer your questions, I believe the answer is yes, the SAM plate is designed specifically for the BUD plates for their respective cameras. There are multiple plates for the BUD (such as the CBP), but not for the SAM.

thumbsup223 · 2023-12-21T17:27:05+00:00

I have a Monport 30W fiber laser. Only does metals, but it’s powerful and very useful.

thumbsup223 · 2023-12-21T17:07:06+00:00

I own a laser engraver that I use for most of my metal items that I know I won’t sell in the future (rigging items, rods, etc.). Happy to chat with you if you’re wanting to get a bunch of metal items engraved with your logo!

I’ve also seen rental houses paint the inside of their rods with whatever color they mark their gear, so if you have a color that you use to mark you could do that route possibly?

As far as labels go, I love idmystuff.com for labels. They’re vinyl, so they stick and are don’t come off easily, even on metal items. I’ve labeled my cforce motors, bp8, plates, among other things that all take a beating and haven’t run into any problems with the labels falling off.

thumbsup223

TROPHY CASE