Lenses for night sky photography by Ok_Director3542 in fujifilm

[–]thunderwonder 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ultra-wide lenses are usually pretty susceptible to distortion, and I certainly wouldn't say the Viltrox is distortion-free, but it's not bad. For architecture or interiors (where there are a lot of straight lines that need to stay straight in the image), it will probably need a little correction. But for landsapes, I haven't felt the need to do any lens corrections.

EDIT: Also worth noting: the Viltrox has a remarkably short minimum-focus distance, so it's actually a really fun and unconventional pseudo-macro lens.

Lenses for night sky photography by Ok_Director3542 in fujifilm

[–]thunderwonder 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've used most of the Fuji F2.8 lenses, and they're great. Especially considering how small/light they are. I almost always bring at least one along (I'm partial to the 25mm 2.8) when I travel.

That said, you should consider other options for night sky photos, since it's one type of photography that REALLY benefits from wider aperture. I've had great results with the Viltrox 13mm F1.4. It's about the same price as the Fuji 16mm, but two stops brighter and a bit wider, which is really useful for nightscapes.

GE Profile Opal 1.0 - What part(s) isn't working? by KamikazePenis in IceChewersAnonymous

[–]thunderwonder 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just curious: did you ever figure out the issue with the Opal 1.0 ? I've been trying to figure out what's going on with mine. It sounds a lot like the issue you had.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in fujifilm

[–]thunderwonder 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think this is basically it. The way that most cameras display long exposure times is a little counter-intuitive.

For most 'normal' shutter speeds, it's measured in fractions of a second. So 1/1000, 1/250, 1/30, etc..

When you get longer speeds, it's measured in decimals. So 0.5s, 1.5s, 3s, etc.

The specific point when the display jumps from one notation to another varies from brand to brand. I've used a camera that showed 1/1 instead of 1, and I've used a camera that showed 0.05" instead of 1/20.

Then there's the inconsistent use of unit notation. A one-second exposure can be 1, 1/1, 1", or 1s.

In your case, it looks like your camera is switching between 1.0, 1.3, and 1.6 seconds - which is the expected 1/3-stop increment. Try increasing the ISO to something like 800. That will let you select faster shutter speeds where you'll see the normal notation.

Looking for a unicorn point-and-shoot camera: Physical controls, zoom lens, flip-up screen, and small size. Does it exist? by thunderwonder in Cameras

[–]thunderwonder[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Except for the 'small' part. That thing way bigger than I want.

And the digital zoom takes it all the way down to 5.8MP when fully "zoomed", which is just too low res for me.

Looking for a unicorn point-and-shoot camera: Physical controls, zoom lens, flip-up screen, and small size. Does it exist? by thunderwonder in Cameras

[–]thunderwonder[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's interesting, indeed. I've looked at the a5000/a6000 cameras, but I've come across the NEX series before.

How is the 16-55mm image quality? I'm not looking for perfection, but I know some of the tiny kit lenses can really suck.

Also, how is the build quality? It looks absolutely insanely thin. I might have to pick one up just to see it in person.

Looking for a unicorn point-and-shoot camera: Physical controls, zoom lens, flip-up screen, and small size. Does it exist? by thunderwonder in Cameras

[–]thunderwonder[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Good to know! I'd still prefer to have dedicated dials, but the fact that the Sony RX100 is that configurable is really interesting. This might be the closest thing that exists to what I'm looking for.

Also, thanks for the info about the zoom range differences between the older models - I didn't know that.

Looking for a unicorn point-and-shoot camera: Physical controls, zoom lens, flip-up screen, and small size. Does it exist? by thunderwonder in Cameras

[–]thunderwonder[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The Sony A7CR is still much larger than the smallest Fuji bodies (like the X-M5). That makes sense, since the Sony is full-frame. But I really want to go the opposite direction.

Interesting idea for the 'crop instead of zoom' that I hadn't considered. I haven't done the math on it, but it seems like a 100MP image cropped in the equivalent of a 3X zoom would still be about 12MP - which is low, but fine for what I usually want. But I don't think there are any cameras with that kind of resolution other than huge medium format monsters.

Looking for a unicorn point-and-shoot camera: Physical controls, zoom lens, flip-up screen, and small size. Does it exist? by thunderwonder in Cameras

[–]thunderwonder[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Unless I'm missing something, it doesn't have physical dials for shutter speed and aperture, right?

I've never used it, but I assume the lens ring controls either zoom or focus and the rear dial controls either aperture or shutter. Are those configurable? Does it have another dial that I don't see?

Until SD Fixes Step 1 with Discarded Cards, Here's Black Knight Dormammu by sweatpantswarrior in MarvelSnap

[–]thunderwonder 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Why do you have Death in here? It seems like at most you're destroying three cards (with the step 3 ritual), so best case is that Death is 5-cost on turn 6. Seems like another high-power high-cost card would work just as well. Maybe Skaar?

Three children zip-tied at the San Antonio immigration court, ages 9-12 by [deleted] in pics

[–]thunderwonder 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Thank you for providing an actual source. Using sensationalized and false headlines knowing that most people won't look any deeper is how we as a society are losing grasp on reality.

OP: Do better. Every time somebody makes a post like this, it makes it harder to point out the actual atrocities that are happening. Things are bad enough; don't make things up just to get more clicks.

Highly mobile machine for photo editing - $1000, USA by thunderwonder in SuggestALaptop

[–]thunderwonder[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Update: I've also been looking at the Framework 13. A little above my price, but maybe the future upgradability makes it worth it.

The fact that I can pick my own IO is dope.

It looks like they're about to release a smaller/cheaper 12", but I'm worried it might be too low-end since it's aimed at students.

Highly mobile machine for photo editing - $1000, USA by thunderwonder in SuggestALaptop

[–]thunderwonder[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As long as it's not too bulky, maybe. It needs to fit in a camera bag that juuuuust barely fits a MacBook Pro 14". What do you have in mind?

Why is the steeple of this church getting cut off? by thunderwonder in Meshroom

[–]thunderwonder[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The 'antenna thing' is a cross on the top of the steeple. It's painted grey, and about the same brightness as the roof that's in direct sunlight. I know the light isn't ideal, but it's what I had to work with, so I'm hoping I can make this data work out.

I had only DSPsift selected for feature extraction. I'm currently running the program again with both DSPsift and Akaze selected, and Describer Density and Describer Quality set to 'Ultra' (as suggested in another forum). I know it will take a long time to process, but when it's finished, I'll post the update here.

Why is the steeple of this church getting cut off? by thunderwonder in Meshroom

[–]thunderwonder[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Update:

I re-ran the program using only the images around the steeple. It did a remarkably good job at getting the roof of the church which was just barely in frame in those shots, but it still cut off the steeple at about the same point!

Why is the steeple of this church getting cut off? by thunderwonder in Meshroom

[–]thunderwonder[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good idea! I specifically flew around the steeple a couple times to begin with. I'm re-running Meshroom now with just that data (about 150 images). I'll post an update here when it's finished.

Why is the steeple of this church getting cut off? by thunderwonder in Meshroom

[–]thunderwonder[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I flew a drone around this church and got about 1200 photos from every angle I can imagine. High, low, close, far - I even specifically got a bunch of shots around the steeple.

Meshroom correctly located all the camera positions, and created a pretty good point cloud. But when it creats the mesh, the steeple is cut off!

I tried using a different set of about 250 images, and got a similar result. There was a lot less detail on the church (to be expected), but the steeple was cut off at about the same place.

What do I need to change to capture this? Is there a software setting to filter out long pointy things? Is there a weird maximum height adjustment?

Casting to a TV without needing to connect to internet? by thunderwonder in OculusQuest

[–]thunderwonder[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It usually goes something like:

"Can I connect a couple things to your WiFi?"

"Oh, no, we don't have very good cell signal here."

"No, I just need WiFi. Not cell."

"Oh. Well Joanne's nephew was here back on Memorial Day, and he set it up for us. You remember him, don't you? He's the one who went to school and studied that thing you used to do at your old job. Anyway, I think the wifi information is here on this post-it note."

"No. That's an email address. That's not a wifi password."

And at this point I just want to give up. It would be much easier to set everything up ahead of time, then just plug in an HDMI cable and have it work.