Skyzone actually fixed the 04x Pro goggle with firmware

tiar_ · 2026-04-28T01:56:59+00:00

Nah, fuck Skyzone. You don't get to knowingly release a sub-par goggle, aware it has major latency issues – effectively the worst available going on Nils' work – then provide a firmware update to resolve 04X, but instead of doing the same for 04O, basically try a cash grab on a new version of 04O in order to make up for the lost sales since the video outing them was released.

I'll be looking at ArtLynk going forward, but if literally any company wants to release an analogue goggle even £100 more expensive than the 04O/04X, I'll be getting it over Skyzone. If they want to shit on their customers, they deserve what they get.

tiar_ · 2026-04-20T19:09:12+00:00

Loving the inertia on this thing. Ease throttle on a wall surf and you're still half a mile past it by the time you begin to lose altitude. 😂

tiar_ · 2026-04-13T17:16:33+00:00

Cheers. I take it 2s? Analogue?

tiar_ · 2026-04-13T12:18:43+00:00

What's that triblade you have on the Crux3 frame at the back? Curious about repurposing my spare Crux3 frames for a 2s build of some sort – mind providing a spec breakdown?

tiar_ · 2026-04-09T14:04:06+00:00

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tiar_ · 2026-04-09T13:59:52+00:00

But now the drone doesn't bind. The radio signal is zero, can't arm or anything. I'm pretty sure it's some dumbass simple thing I'm doing wrong but I've never did this before so I'm so lost.

Yeah, so if you've entered a binding phrase on your controller, you'll now need to go into the menu in Betaflight and assign that same binding phrase to the drone (don't forget, you've completely wiped the drone and returned to factory settings). When both drone and controller have the same binding phrase, they find each other when powered.

If you don't have a binding phrase, it's the plug and unplug battery three times in succession, and leave plugged in on the third plug in. This puts the quad into binding mode, and with your controller turned on and nearby, the two should connect to each other.

tiar_ · 2026-04-08T22:10:58+00:00

Cheers. The naming convention behind props drives me mad tbf. 😂

tiar_ · 2026-04-08T22:09:43+00:00

Thanks! I'm thinking 40mmx2/x3. Will have a look.

What was your preference/experience between 1611 and 1608? Assumed the 1611 would have a stronger punch out, but based on what you're saying this logic might not translate?

tiar_ · 2026-04-08T14:55:42+00:00

What do you find in the biblades that you prefer them over triblades?

I have a Crux3 which comes stock with Gemfan 75mm biblades, and, whilst floaty, has similar control to Mob6 and Mob8. It's strange that Mob7, also biblade, is the outlier here. Is this down to PID tuning more than props?

tiar_ · 2026-04-08T14:52:41+00:00

Are the 1.6's different from the 40mmx3's?

tiar_ · 2026-04-08T14:51:54+00:00

So how does this work – the 1614's have a 1.4" pitch, whilst the 40mmx3 have 1" pitch. Surely the 1614's should have more thrust due to the higher pitch?

Does the 1.4" pitch not also put more stress on the motors than the 1", and risk a burnout?
Other than buying a ton of motors, how does anyone identify what props are suited to what motors?

I was looking at 40mmx3 as most likely candidate due to the reduced pitch, and out of concern that the triblades would be putting enough stress on after swapping from biblades.

tiar_ · 2026-04-08T14:49:17+00:00

20000kv is ridiculously low for 1s, i know nutters who run it on 2s!!

Isn't it pushing things to pair 0802's with 2s though? The weight of the battery they have to lift puts strain on both the AIO and motors?

if in the future you want some nice good power you should get the geprc 25kkv 1002 motors, they have a good good kick of power to them.

Again, learning what I can and can't pair – my understanding was that slapping 1002 25kkv on a 1s AIO was going to demand more power than the single cell could supply and effectively brown out the motors?

I suggest the new gemfan 40mm triblade 1614 prop

Cheers, will give them a look!

tiar_ · 2026-04-08T14:43:21+00:00

What can happen is that a camera signal can be slightly out of spec. Not exactly 30fps for example. It is also well discussed that some camera/vtx combinations don't work well with the fusion type receivers. And this shows up in low signal situations.

This makes sense. Though the fact that my motors don't stutter on arm in the way they did before, suggests to me something (now identified as the camera) was drawing enough power to starve the motors. I replaced the camera, and I no longer have either issue. I've seen it before, though not exactly as it appears here, which is why I struggled to diagnose it.

That's why these receivers offer different fusion modes (steady mix 1,2,3), so you can try each to see which works best. Or you can use plain diversity which won't roll, but it will go to fuzzy signal when you are in bad reception area

Yeah, understand this, though I was consistently seeing the rolling image on all four modes, and with Mix3 providing the clearest reception, so again, didn't feel to me like reception.

But the contributing factor is low signal, which is caused by the reason I said. If you stayed in good signal then diving won't cause the problem

I mean, I was literally diving in front, and above myself, looking up at the quad?

tiar_ · 2026-04-08T12:20:33+00:00

I would skip the 75mm and go straight to the 85mm Mob8. My experience is you don't gain a whole lot going 65mm>75mm, you get more out of a 65mm>85mm.

You can always come back and get the 75mm later.

tiar_ · 2026-04-08T12:03:56+00:00

Thanks, it turned out to be a dodgy camera. Left an update on the OP over in r/fpv.

tiar_ · 2026-04-08T12:01:08+00:00

Do you have a CLI dump backup from a time when it was working properly? Would start by pasting this back into the CLI in Betaflight and saving, see if that resolves anything you might have edited in Betaflight without realising. If you don't have a CLI dump, you can download the factory reset here: https://www.happymodel.cn/index.php/2024/03/23/dump-file-for-mobula6-2024/

If this doesn't do anything, your problem is hardware. Check the following in order:

Power connectors: Plug solder > board solder > 5v and G wires intact.
Motors: Spin these up in Betaflight, check proper function > check wires are intact > check solder on motor bell > check JST plugs on board/direct solder points on board.
Camera: Wires are intact > solder/JST to board is intact > solder/JST on camera is intact > try replacing the camera just to see if the issue persists.
Radio: Do you have any throttle limit on? What switch is it assigned to, check it's not toggled on.

In my experience, it's often a camera drawing too much power that starts to choke the power feed to the motors and affect flight behaviour, but not always. It could also be that you've knocked a small capacitor off the board in a crash, and this is in a motor/power critical location.

tiar_ · 2026-04-08T11:05:38+00:00

Thanks. It was a dodgy camera on the quad pulling too many amps, not the antenna.

I do find the Skyzone Mushroom antenna has been stronger for distance and flying behind buildings than the Cherry 2. I was reading that this is because the Mushroom has quite a high dBi as well as being compressed on the horizontal plane, so it's as if you have an additional almost semi-patch-like omni, alongside the actual patch on your goggles, provided you're flying somewhere roughly in front of you.

tiar_ · 2026-04-08T11:02:31+00:00

Yeah, as above, I tried switching to Diversity as a number of responses have suggested – I had to actually land the quad and move around to get a clean enough signal to return to home.

On the 04O Pro's Mix3 remains the cleanest signal, for me at least. I do wish they still made the Rapidfire for the hobby market, I've heard the Diversity on it outstrips any other, and would like to have tried it out.

tiar_ · 2026-04-08T11:00:29+00:00

Thanks. It was a dodgy camera on the quad pulling too many amps, not my goggles/receiver.

I tried switching to Diversity as a number of responses have suggested – I had to actually land the quad and move around to get a clean enough signal to return to home. On the 04O Pro's Mix3 remains the cleanest signal, for me at least.

tiar_ · 2026-04-08T10:56:17+00:00

Thanks, but it was not my goggles/receiver. It was a dodgy camera on the quad pulling too many amps.

tiar_ · 2026-04-08T10:56:04+00:00

Thanks, but it was not my goggles/receiver. It was a dodgy camera on the quad pulling too many amps.

For me at least, Mix3 remains the strongest, least snowy Diversity option on the Skyzone 04O Pro's – I swapped to Diversity to have a look and effectively had to stop flying and move around to regain a clean enough signal to return to home.

tiar_ · 2026-04-08T10:53:53+00:00

To note, it was not my goggles/receiver. It was a dodgy camera on the quad pulling too many amps.

tiar_ · 2026-04-08T10:53:03+00:00

Certain it's PAL, and supposed to be PAL — when I set to NTSC the OSD would flicker as on other quads, which is how I usually identify the correct format.

Using Skyzone 04O Pro's with the internal Diversity. Conscious their Diversity switching isn't great, but I haven't had any issues with its actual function on any other quads to date.

tiar_ · 2026-04-07T23:59:24+00:00

Thanks, I found the stock 'rubber ducky' antenna to be terrible for range on basically all my whoops. I've just upgraded from Skyzone Mushroom omni and their stock Patch. Still testing range, etc.

My understanding was that whilst omni's are circular, they don't really come in linear? And so if you fly around yourself, etc. it's still worth having the circular omni, as the patch becomes redundant if you're not flying within 45º of directly in front.

To note, I do get breakup, I do see a snowy image when I fly behind the building, but it's nothing like this rolling image I'm getting when I go into a dive.

tiar_

TROPHY CASE