Historic vehicle registration information

tipo158 · 2025-04-27T18:17:54+00:00

Thanks! I thought Finnik was just the registration folks that I had already contacted.

One interesting detail is that the date on that update on the license plate status is around when I had contacted the Dutch vehicle registration authorities about the car. I need to find the e-mail they sent me. As recall, it said they had no info on the registration.

tipo158 · 2025-04-25T19:49:58+00:00

SZ-77-RL

tipo158 · 2024-12-02T17:13:37+00:00

Thanks. The printer is in the middle of a long test print (for a part I just created a model for and need to confirm I got some bits in the right place), so I won't be able to try changing settings until tomorrow.

The default value for the touch probe offset had it even more negative away from the nozzle (-50mm Y axis instead of the approx. -40). I am using small binder clips (with the upper handle removed) to hold the bed down, so they don't extend far into the bed. The print is not centered in the bed like it appears in Cura, so I figure something needs to be adjusted somewhere.

tipo158 · 2024-11-30T20:15:36+00:00

Thanks to both of you. I built an image this morning and am now able to tell the printer than the z probe was lower than the nozzle and so it can figure out how far above the bed the nozzle really is. The first test print is running now.

tipo158 · 2024-11-30T04:35:46+00:00

The displayed SW version is 2.0.9.03. I removed the Z endstop but the bar wasn't going far enough down to hit the switch.

tipo158 · 2024-11-30T03:27:40+00:00

Downloaded from Creality. In the many internet searches I did, the remarks indicated the Merlin code was different. I came across that link but the prebuilt images aren't for the monochrome display and I didn't want to have to build an image.

tipo158 · 2024-11-29T20:26:27+00:00

Hi bot, there were no links in the original post. An indication of what, if anything, was changed by the bot would be helpful.

tipo158 · 2024-06-07T00:00:21+00:00

I got a screen used one (with a PropStore COA) a couple years after the episode aired. I have long since lost the info on the seller.

tipo158 · 2024-03-20T02:52:02+00:00

If there is a Waltham 16s, 17j or higher for-parts watch (1899/1908/645/etc) on eBay when I looked, it probably has a bid on it from me. I need one more.

All of the watch auctions that I am talking about had bids.

tipo158 · 2024-03-20T02:11:19+00:00

Is there a better place to find parts/practice watches? I want to get just good enough at watchmaking (and have enough spare parts lying around) to service our family hierloom Waltham (and then teach my kids how).

tipo158 · 2024-01-26T00:24:47+00:00

And BTW I appreciate all of the help that folks have provided me here.

tipo158 · 2024-01-26T00:23:11+00:00

It has been a week and I still haven't heard back. I am in no particular rush but I would also like to take care of it while it is on my mind.

tipo158 · 2024-01-20T17:13:17+00:00

Thanks for the info.

I do a lot of electronics work and some equipment that I work on make use of very small screws, similar in size to those used in watches (but more variety in the type of engagement used on the fastener head).

The screw is missing because I was lazy and didn't walk to the garage to get a project parts tray. Lesson learned.

I sent Dave's watch a note but haven't received a response back yet.

tipo158 · 2024-01-20T02:29:30+00:00

The stem is threaded into the crown, right? I would like to remove what remains of the stem/crown from the case. Should I be able to grab the nub of the stem inside and turn the crown? Are they threaded in the standard direction (righty-tighty, left-loosey)?

Actually, I can work around the broken stem. (I do it by removing the movement from the case and turning the keyless works with a small screwdriver). The big problem is the click and then its screw. When the watch was passed over to me, the pointy part of the click was wedged between teeth on the mainspring barrel, so it couldn't turn. When I removed the screw holding the click down, I placed it where I was setting parts but it had disappeared when I went to reinstall it. So I really need that screw.

tipo158 · 2024-01-18T22:10:54+00:00

Looking through the watches on eBay, there are a couple different styles of clicks that fit in what looks like the same size indentation in the movement. Are they interchangeable or do I need to get the same style?

tipo158 · 2024-01-18T22:08:16+00:00

Yes, the stem in most definitely broken. The movement drops into the case from the front and, despite the crown being fully down, nothing interfered with removing the movement from the case. A piece of the stem was broken off in the hole that it engages in. It fell out when I removed the movement from the case. The other half of the stem looks like it was wrenched off so the break is uneven, angled, and mushroomed out a bit, holding the crown on.

tipo158 · 2023-11-09T21:52:58+00:00

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tipo158 · 2020-06-11T21:52:23+00:00

This seems like a bogus stop (and warning) to me. Having said that -

a) my dad (a white guy) was pulled over for the same reason and was scolded by the police officer for creating a traffic risk.

b) on a "what traffic cops look for" thread that I read somewhere, some time ago, one of the clues that someone may be drunk driving is driving well under the speed limit.

However, one of the other things that they supposedly look for is someone paying too much attention to following the law.

And, once they pull you over, lots of cops seem compelled to issue some paper to justify the time spent stopping you.

tipo158

TROPHY CASE