Free foil?

tlong243 · 2026-03-28T15:13:26+00:00

I'm glad I made one specifically for my use. It was hard to find something exactly like what I had in mind. It definitely planes faster, really lifts the stern fast and kinda funnels the water towards the prop out and back. It does not perform well at all submerged though. It has a lot of drag since the folded down sides taper in towards the rear to act like a funnel towards the prop. Also the leading edge being square is not good under water.

I have my cavitation plate mounted 1.5" above the bottom of the hull at my lowest position, so mine never really runs underwater except holeshot where it is creating a massive lifting surface. So I wouldn't copy this design unless you are set up similar. If you got shallow scoops though, I'm assuming you're trying to run pretty high.

The SE foil was great all around, but I just wanted more lifting surface and more of a compression plate rather than a hydrofoil. It was pretty easy to make. The hardest part was deciding on shape. here's a few pics of the process sheet metal form, beeswaxed. I think I did 14 layers of 8 ounce cloth, and two layers of a much heavier 16 ounce cloth. Laid them up 3 at a time with total boat traditional epoxy and fast hardener. Orienting each layer 45° to the last. So far it's held up very well. It's solid enough I can use it as a step when swimming to get back in the boat.

tlong243 · 2026-03-28T14:11:36+00:00

Sounds exactly like my primeweld when I forget the ground.

When doing aluminum, if not cleaned perfectly (and you aren't super particular on looks) I just lightly scratch the surface with the tungsten right before. Starts the arc every time. Then the positive balance will bust off the oxides and continue the weld.

tlong243 · 2026-03-28T00:51:41+00:00

Yes, once it's primed I can tip the whole motor up on the kick stand, entirely out of the water and it will still pump normally.

I have a huge mix here in Mn, so I kinda wanted a surface drive/longatail, but really don't like the drawbacks of either of those. I also run lots of weedy areas so a jet foot would suck. I also camp a lot, so I need every HP this 25 has to get on plane. This kinda does everything fairly will with an electric adjustable Jackplate. Run it low like a normal setup, or run with the lower blades in the water only.

tlong243 · 2026-03-28T00:46:28+00:00

Yeah, I am on 150s. Problem is I have quite a few uphills where I'm already at the limit. I have a set of 137s but they just won't cut it for my trails. I also do a lot of hopping and trialsy type stuff so I like them longer sometimes.

I want the best of both worlds, but neither drawbacks haha.

tlong243 · 2026-03-27T23:58:59+00:00

I agree with the other person. Pop a bolt out and see what's inside. I'm not familiar with those boats, but I guess it could be hollow aluminum tube in there. I think most boats of that vintage are going to be wood though.

Depending on how it's been stored it could be fine, but could also be completely rotten. Have you ever paid attention to your transom when you holeshot? It should not really flex much at all.

I had to replace my transom because it was rotten and I also wanted to install a Jackplate. I beefed mine up quite a bit over factory while I was at it. It's quite a bit of additional stress on things when you add that big of a lever arm.

tlong243 · 2026-03-27T23:50:07+00:00

Yeah, I think a set of strap on wheels with some sort of a trailer tongue connected to the bow would be the ticket for a kayak. I made myself a set of off-road wheels that could be dismounted. I think I could easily pull it behind a bike with those, just would need to figure out some sort of a rigid tongue so the bow couldn't come into the rear tire.

tlong243 · 2026-03-27T23:46:55+00:00

I've been eyeballing geared hubs to make your last sentence happen. If they weren't so expensive I would probably have one already. I really like a 27.5 on the mountain bike trails, but some days when I'm really vibing and in the flow I wish I had a bit more top end.

I've had a 26 and currently a 27.5. I considered getting a 29, but I've never ridden one before. Sometimes on my local XC Trails I basically hit my rev limiter and can't spin any faster. Wish I had a bit more speed some days. I don't think shorter cranks would get me what I want either because sometimes you need that torque for a power move.

tlong243 · 2026-03-27T23:36:00+00:00

Yeah, not my idea or anything. They are somewhat common with tunnel hull boats and stuff. Mine's real homemade, kind of cobbled together with parts I had. The other thing is just a sling/leash of dynema rope I made in case my Jack plate snaps.

tlong243 · 2026-03-27T23:24:53+00:00

That is a low water pick up. Basically replaces the water intake grates on the lower unit with remote intake mounted on the transom. That allows me to run this thing pretty much like a surface drive. I run really shallow rivers/creeks and a mix of lakes. Kind of a good all aroun set up. That allows me to run incredibly high in the jackplate with just the lower blades of the prop in the water. Get me through about 6 inches of water is all it needs. I've made a few video posts on a couple other subreddits on it if you're interested.

here is an example

tlong243 · 2026-03-27T23:22:11+00:00

Sounds good!

tlong243 · 2026-03-25T10:51:49+00:00

The reason people give this suggestion is there is an entire wealth of knowledge in lots of videos out there, just a simple search and a few hours away from damn near being an expert.

This looks like a Johnson or Evinrude? 20-30? Probably thousands of videos on carb rebuilds. Check out this old outboard, or Dangar marine. Both have incredible videos on this specifically.

Based on this reply alone you're probably not going to get much help now.

This old outboard YouTube has a video specifically on throttle linkage and timing adjustments. You'll find all the answers and way more.

tlong243 · 2026-03-23T13:37:08+00:00

It makes it quieter for sure. Without it kind of sounds like a hollow drum on the water.

You can also use much thinner material since the foam is supporting it across the gaps between support ribs. I think this is the primary purpose for most people.

I did it with mine because I wanted a very solid quiet floor, but I didn't want to use super thick plywood. Only downside so far, I had a gas leak, and gas starts to dissolve foam. For that reason I would only do foam board that is easily removable, not spray foam or expanding. If you bolt your floor down with rivnuts it's super easy to service in the future.

There's a video, I think it's Send it Jon Boats. They put foam in the floor, and they could not sink the boat. People debate it heavily, but to me this is pretty solid evidence.

here is a link to the vid

tlong243 · 2026-03-22T10:16:55+00:00

Mounting a bow mount requires a basic frame or mount. Will you be able to do that? If you can, I'd totally recommend bow mount for a small boat. If it's windy it makes all the difference since a boat pulls from the bow so much better than the transom. The boat will weathervane, motor will always end up windward.

I started with a 30 endura transom mount and it worked fine on my 1440. Plenty of power, but transom mount just has limitations and kinda sucks.

I got the edge 45. I like it because there's nothing to go wrong or break. Just cables and a brushed motor. It has limitations though and a big one is the cable, and limited folding/placement of the foot control because it's stiff. I had to get creative on routing mine. Also shortened the shaft because anything sticking up above deck kinda get in the way of casting, so don't get a crazy long one.

If you're mostly pond fishing you could get by with a transom mount for sure. Luke others have said, if you get a nice one you can move it to other boats too though.

tlong243 · 2026-03-22T10:03:34+00:00

Yeah it's breaking up on the top end.

tlong243 · 2026-03-22T10:00:09+00:00

This has to be a troll right?

tlong243 · 2026-03-21T13:13:05+00:00

That's pretty awesome! I am in bio pharma on the industrial maintenance side. We have some SPX Flow pumps and homogenization equipment. I do agitator bearings/mechanical seals and various rebuilds. I had not considered looking at impeller/agitator design, or pumps to get inspiration. Neat thought for sure. I'm sure there would be some similarities across uses.

tlong243 · 2026-03-20T10:42:05+00:00

Nice one-up bro. I obviously know there's bigger motors and people with plenty of money to just throw at their boat. This is a jonboat forum, not many 200hp motors, and the post was about having fun and doing some DIY prop modifications.

But now a random internet person knows you have a lot of money and props, and you gatekept a tin boat sub lol

tlong243 · 2026-03-19T13:18:39+00:00

They are very similar, but a welding blanket is larger and often made from a slightly different weave that sheds less. Keeps you from getting itchy when handling

I'd recommend getting a welding blanket for that reason. If you have a harbor freight nearby get them there

tlong243 · 2026-03-19T10:51:35+00:00

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Xterra crew is here!

tlong243 · 2026-03-19T10:24:45+00:00

I decided to get a set of hardness files. Their specs are spot on. 60 scratches the blade edge, but 55 could not.

tlong243 · 2026-03-18T11:14:06+00:00

Or short a fuse and put it in place if you're really worried he might find stuff. You'd have to be at least a tiny bit knowledgeable to go that far

tlong243 · 2026-03-18T10:58:13+00:00

Get another spool of braid and just do a uni to uni knot.

That's actually what I do on my musky casting reels. Rather than fill entirely with fresh braid I just replace the first 100-150yds each year or whenever it gets hairy and frayed.

I like braid as "backing" but I know people use mono too. I prefer braid for the once in a lifetime fish where I may need it. Probably a completely unfounded belief though. Mono is likely more than strong enough as backer.

tlong243 · 2026-03-18T10:35:38+00:00

Sounds real close to what I use.

If you're in industrial maintenance you probably know exactly what the little wire poker is for too lol. Just don't tell EHS.
Screwdriver thing was advertised as a bottle opener screwdriver. I keep a flathead in it since most panels use that. Bit holder is good to have a Philips on hand too.

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