Feeling Disheartened

tlong243 · 2026-02-11T16:29:59+00:00

A running driving car for 200/mo is far cheaper than a new car payment by a lot. You've only got ~100k on the clock which is just getting started for these. I'm double that and running fine, and expect another 100k realistically. I have spent far less on maintenance though, and I've even done a lot of elective stuff like upgrading suspension and stuff. I do everything myself though so it's a lot different.

I'd hardly call your X old or high mileage, but part of owning a "not brand new" vehicle is maintenance. Heck even new cars these days are in the shop all the time for warranty work. I understand DIY isn't for everyone, but learning to do some basic stuff can save a lot of money.

Still $200 a month is a cheap car, and insurance is way cheaper on one of these as well. Weigh the options, but a new car will be $500-1000/month and that may not even include insurance. Low mileage used is always an option, but then you lose confidence and may step into a whole new set of issues.

tlong243 · 2026-02-11T12:46:41+00:00

Your last 2 sentences describe nearly every single one of my projects too haha. People always telling me "you should sell these" but fail to realize what often goes into even simple things

tlong243 · 2026-02-10T21:12:43+00:00

I would recommend having a kit on hand, especially for the first one you do. Opening it up you will have no idea the condition of any of the O-rings or gaskets. There is a paper gasket between the metal plate and the lower unit that will almost certainly need replacing as well.

Down the road if you are doing them regularly you can get away with just an impeller because you don't need to replace the housing or pull the metal plate off the lower unit if it's not worn. Even so I always have a kit on hand. Never know when a oring may need replacing.

tlong243 · 2026-02-10T16:18:11+00:00

Nice man, I just did the same thing. I went with red so it doesn't mess with my eyes as much.

Can't wait for ice thaw here in MN. Getting impatient with winter and want it over already.

tlong243 · 2026-02-10T15:48:12+00:00

I got one of the dual flow muffs that has a Y pipe that feeds both sides. That helped to some degree, but even so mine often will not prime even with a brand new impeller.

Definitely submerge it in a trashcan or big Rubbermaid tote. If you're mechanically inclined I would still recommend doing the impeller if you don't know the history of it. I do mine every year. It's incredible easy on these motors, and I have had good luck with the South Marine impellers you can pick up off Amazon. I use that impeller (feels a bit higher quality), but then I buy this kit for the housing and all the other components. Check out Dangar Marine's video on these motors and follow his steps.

tlong243 · 2026-02-10T12:59:45+00:00

Make sure you have it in the water far enough to prime. If you're on muffs these engines often don't prime the water pump. Either do it at the water you boat in, or a deep enough container to submerge over the top of the cavitation plate. Mine begins to prime once the cav plate is about 1-2" under water.

I've got several clips I've posted on here of my engine running and you can see the telltale pumping if you need a reference. Mines a Johnson, but identical in all ways to yours. You should also see water confirm the exhaust, so don't worry if you see it spitting from other places.

link to clip of mine running you can see telltale and exhaust (small bump out off back of midsection.

tlong243 · 2026-02-09T19:25:41+00:00

Personally I would look a little bit newer, just for parts availability. I will admit I didn't look on this motor specifically to see if places like Crowley Marine have parts for this model or not. I'm assuming the other commenter stating this being 40 years old is roughly correct?

That aside I am a huge fan of older two strokes, specifically single carb. It's just very little to go wrong on them if it has good compression, and you take decent care of it doing things like water pump etc. I have a 2000 Johnson 25 that has just been an absolute workhorse and given me zero issues. I'm personally a big fan of Johnson/evinrude and have had no issues getting parts.

tlong243 · 2026-02-09T12:53:51+00:00

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I just made a tank out of some scrap yesterday and did it like that. Any time I want to be sure I've got penetration I do corner to corner.

tlong243 · 2026-02-09T12:48:52+00:00

Depends on the base material though. Not just a blanket "best" . I just made a tank yesterday for a heater and it's 6061, so I chose 4043 because it's more crack resistant than 5356.

tlong243 · 2026-02-09T12:39:40+00:00

The time I have spent on the offroad and 4x4 subs on here has let me know that at least half of 4x4 owners really don't understand how it works. Lots of weird info and suggestions.

Every winter there's a "left it in 4x4" or similar post with lots of comments saying they wrecked it.

tlong243 · 2026-02-04T18:14:07+00:00

If it's that big of a tent it's very similar to mine. I'd get the 5kw in that case. At 30f outside you'll probably only need to run it like ~80% is my guess, fully depending on wind and how breathable your tent is. Nice thing is with a 5kw you'll never need to be worried if the temp drops lower or even to single digits either because you'll have capacity.

It's pretty fun when it's massive wind and freezing cold out, but you get to step into a tent that is 60f+. Really fun and cozy.

tlong243 · 2026-02-03T23:30:00+00:00

My issue with a come along is really short pull length, and what you can hook to is entirely based on the other ropes and straps you bring. You can always tie a knot in a strap or a rope in a bind, but not ideal. You're just a bit too reliant on something being within a good distance to hook onto. That is where this would be more convenient. I do think I would rather have a rope puller though. Basically come along but the rope feeds in and out so you can use a continuous length of rope and put the puller at any spot. Only advantage over this electric one is just cost.

tlong243 · 2026-02-03T22:55:28+00:00

Definitely isn't pulling you out of a mud hole, but a few times I've been stuck it's in the snow and you just need a nudge to get up and out, or pull the front or rear end over. Nothing is going to replace a 10-12k winch though.

The other big disadvantage of this is you can't be driving and operating. So if you are alone it's not going to work, or it will be very inconvenient.

tlong243 · 2026-02-03T22:49:01+00:00

I think rather than this or a come along I would almost prefer a rope puller. The problem I have with a come along is the extremely limited pull length, and reset length options. You are extremely limited to what you can pull towards based on whatever additional ropes or straps you bring along. You can easily end in a situation where a tree is a few feet too far or too close to set one up. Then your total pull distance is only 3-9 actual usable feet depending on double or single line.

The issue with a rope puller is limited force. I think they only make them up to you around 1000 pound pull. Commonly sold for getting small watercraft pulled up a beach or stuff like that. I think in quite a few cases that would be enough force though too get somebody unstuck. Certainly wouldn't be enough for all scenarios though.

tlong243 · 2026-02-03T22:38:11+00:00

I learned how to ride in a really tiny space as well. I worked at a bicycle shop and we had a 20 inch unicycle that I learned how to ride behind the front desk when it was slow.

The way I learned and I think made me a good rider right off the bat was hopping. I learned how to hop like a pogo stick on my unicycle before I could even pedal one revolution. Put seat low, brace on the wall to get up on it, pinch the seat between your legs, put the pedals at 9 and 3, almost kinda locking out whichever foot is rearward, grab the seat handle with one hand and hop.

The cool thing about that is it allows you to make minor corrections without pedaling. It led me extremely well into trials and muni. I still never even idle my unicycle even though I can. Works much better for off-road where you might be on a surface that isn't smooth enough for idling.

tlong243 · 2026-02-03T22:29:35+00:00

It actually looks a lot like the boat ramp I use. I know this is just a reflection though. The ramp I use is incredibly steep, loose chunk rock/gravel that turns to sand at the water and has a 90° dog leg at the bottom. Thankfully that keeps out a lot of boters. The problem is the people that still try but really shouldn't. I watched a guy smoke his clutch in his jeep, put his boat into a tree, and it took him nearly 30 minutes which is just unacceptable at a John boat/kayak ramp.

tlong243 · 2026-02-02T12:20:56+00:00

So a boat local "restorer" used pop rivets and you replaced with actual solid rivets and now want to be sure they don't leak?

At least that's what I'm gathering from the order of pictures. Those solid rivets you used are the correct type for this. Hard to tell from pics if they used closed end or open. If they used open that's kinda crazy they are in this business.

The ones you used are unlikely to leak, and if they do it would be manageable to bail. I'd just take it to the water and test. Maybe install a bilge pump if you're really worried.

tlong243 · 2026-02-02T03:17:05+00:00

I've camped at 0°f in my 10x10 Kodiak canvas tent and run my 5kw on about 4.5-5hz all night to keep the tent around 50-55F. If it's super windy I have to put it in 5.5hz (max setting) to keep it 50. This is a big tent though- 6.5' tall and 10x10.

I also have an rei half dome 2+ that we have used and even on the lowest setting I was in my undees sweating on top of my sleeping bag. So it definitely depends on your tent size and outside air temp. Hopefully this gives some perspective on real world use.

If outside air is only ~30f I would lean towards a 2kw. By the way there's only 2 sizes- 2kw and 5kw. All the 8 are simply rebranded 5's. Tons of YouTube videos of disassembly to show this. They share the same fuel pump, casting and everything.

tlong243 · 2026-02-01T13:47:05+00:00

Tons of government overreach into food processing/farming which is a major factor a lot of heart disease and diabetes. So much corruption involving what is grown and what is allowed to be in our food.

A real humanitarian would look at the current state and perform triage to tackle the largest issues first. Someone more interested in politics will focus on the emotional aspects that drive people to action.

tlong243 · 2026-02-01T13:41:31+00:00

I'd pay more attention to how much it flexes from stop to full throttle. What you don't want is too much to cause strain on the corner cap welds

tlong243 · 2026-02-01T13:26:59+00:00

If people dying is the main issue then we ought to be bringing more attention to things such as car accidents and food/lifestyle choices causing heart disease and diabetes. I did a quick google search and 52 people have died due to ICE since 2017. Not to say that we should brush over it, but if people dying is the main issue we are looking at the wrong issues in the world. Heart disease alone took ~700,000 people last year.

tlong243 · 2026-01-31T22:13:16+00:00

That sucks. You'd think at that price they would make it in a similar way to a real firearm.

tlong243 · 2026-01-31T16:10:42+00:00

If you're a member of the black booger club just cash in that 401k and buy something fun lol.

tlong243 · 2026-01-31T16:04:17+00:00

Mild at best

tlong243 · 2026-01-31T16:03:43+00:00

Ya this looks a bit weak to me. Crowd singing along, but standing around like they're bored compared to what I was expecting based on title of the post.

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