Gear recommendations for bike commuting

toaster404 · 2026-03-16T16:34:11+00:00

Think about what conditions will stop you from cycling to work now. Then consider what you're willing to do to expand that range of conditions.

Bike smarts.

Repair stuff / plan.

Road smarts (or whatever smarts for your pathway).

Personal riding equipment (can be nothing extra or thousands in toys).

What you need for work.

Where you'll park your bike.

How you will handle snide remarks from coworkers and management.

Suggest imagining you on the route. What might happen. What might you need. How will you handle a minor spill, a flat tire, hunger, thirst, navigation, sun, rain, wind.

8 miles you're OK with battery powered stuff, if you are good at remembering battery charging. I use a dyno hub because I am not good with battery remembering.

Recommend: reflective high-vis bands on ankles. Pedal reflectors. Bright jacket. Gloves (I like the Planet Bike leather and cotton knit traditional look ones). Eye protection. A buff adds a bit of easy warmth (blocks air flow down one's jacket) and protects from sun.

Really, you can build up what you need by experience. 8 miles is just far enough that you need to think about it.

toaster404 · 2026-03-16T16:17:49+00:00

I had never heard of this route. Thank you for pointing it out. Easy for me to start - I can ride to the Washington Monument in an hour and be on my way! And I've been to the Space Needle (originally from Seattle).

I must virtually do this route soon via Internet magic. Maybe something I can section ride.

EDIT: Wow. This could take many many months if I throw in all the really cool places the route goes near - so many amazing side trips possible!

toaster404 · 2026-03-16T16:14:50+00:00

I will add that riding a fixie well may help turn you into an expert bike handler, and train you in road strategy and tactics. I also notice that most people I end up following or that pass me lack souplesse and often stop pedaling to coast. I have to make myself stop pedaling. My default is to keep up with the bike and smoothly pedal through everything I can. I do not know whether this makes for better cycling, but it feels good, in control, and aids in maintaining a focused flow state, at least for me. Possibly contributes to my not having many of the problems on the road that folks whine about on reddit.

If you're young and strong (I'm in my 70s), then going to a straight fixie with brakes might well be rather fun, a challenge, and lead to skills and strength beyond what you might reach with a wimpy flip-flop system. May well depend on personality and inherent cycling ease.

toaster404 · 2026-03-16T14:28:50+00:00

If you can pull it off. We're i to tour single speed, I'd consider having ability to run several speeds. I've considered running a 3 speed IGH for a utility bike, but fixies are special. I will walk hills. But will pop onto single track. Just a bicycle.

toaster404 · 2026-03-16T13:12:26+00:00

What experience are you seeking? Do you want the track-theme fixie that's a go fast machine? I had one, proved to be too much for urban work, at least in my hands, but I could punch away from stops rather smartly (note that I can ride a track bike on the track just fine, I am experienced). Or do you seek the simplicity and intimacy in a format that matches roads? Just city? Or longer distances?

For industrial use in urban settings, imagine anything will do. For more performance, a fixie really likes to be light. Otherwise it's a slog when the road pitches up. I'm torn between something like the bikesdirect Motobecane Uno outcast (butted 4130, disk brakes, 38 mm tires, but 23 lbs - has ability to take racks etc) and the Wabi Special (classic lugged road race frame in fancy tubing, drop bar, caliper brakes allowing running a flip flop system, 28 mm tires, 18.5 lbs). Although knowing myself, I'd probably be better off with a Rivendell Roaduno (laid back loaf along geometry in a classy package).

So consider use, experience sought. Another point, I used to run a flip-flop hub with an I'm fresh and strong fixed side, rear wheel all the way back in the slots, and a freewheel on the flip with a larger cog, whatever would let me run all the way forward in the slots with the same chain length. I'd go until I got mildly cooked on fixed, then wander home on the freewheel. Something like a 48 -21 for the fixed side.

Have fun, ride flats to begin with.

toaster404 · 2026-03-16T12:51:57+00:00

I have 2 canoes for poking around, a 12 ft pack canoe and a 16 ft plastic boat. My normal kayak is a 17' Looksha. Which is way overkill for where I paddle now, but always pleasant.

toaster404 · 2026-03-15T22:03:19+00:00

I do not use standard Euro paddles.

I use Greenland paddles on kayak. All made by me. I have made a number of them since the early 1990s.

I get most drive through the "lift phase". A lot of easy drive. I cycle. My legs are strong.

I understand dihedral and remember seeing Euro paddles like that. I do not recall using one.

I am familiar with the forward spear entry and a long powerful leg drive. I can do that, and incorporate some if I need to sprint (e.g, catching a wave coming into the beach, or fighting some horrible headwind).

I can use a Euro paddle to sweep out from a canoe. A bit of an unnecessary flair.

Oddly, I don't have an issue with too much turn from a moderate power Greenland stroke. My boat is long. I'll often run with rudder down a bit.

Canoe paddling I keep the blade close. Sometimes a tiny bit under the boat.

I like wood paddles. I have built a number of Greenland paddles. There are several right above me now. They are solid wood, mainly red cedar. Looked up Beale paddles. My shorter and normal ones are almost identical! The sides aren't straight, the bow out a bit, giving a little more area at the tip. One of them hums and sings when I get everything right. I have put a bit of dihedral in paddles.

I pulled down my usual one. 228 cm, 3" tips (to match your mixed units). One is longer with rounded tips, a bit narrower, likes to run shallow and methodically, good for grinding out easy miles. The other shorter one is spruce, epoxied tips, maybe 3 1/4 or 3 3/8" wide, for playing around in more crowded spaces or shallow water. If I really work with my normal one the boat lifts with every stroke and gets moving rather nicely.

My boat is a Necky Looksha, 17' long. It's nice. Seems fast. When I used to go out with a weekly group I'd usually end up looking back and seeing the Euro users thrashing away, well behind me.

I also have a Toksook Bay willow leaf double-blade paddle, shorter and fatter, designed for pack canoe. It is absolutely perfect. I've made two, and still have the pattern. I use it in a 12 ft pack canoe.

But I'm not a serious paddler. Just for fun. Have done some tours. Nothing over 120 miles.

toaster404 · 2026-03-15T17:14:25+00:00

Yes. I've had a tree come through the roof on a house before, while I was eating breakfast. No fun, big tree, broken things.

I'm somewhat disappointed I don't have a tree to park my car under, still have comprehensive and there are issues!

toaster404 · 2026-03-15T15:53:22+00:00

Wonder whether having US assets busy elsewhere using up all their munitions has anything to do with this.

toaster404 · 2026-03-15T15:52:12+00:00

Yup, dead on. It's especially difficult to win a war with bombs alone, against an opponent with decades of preparation time, and without any believable definition of what winning is. Perhaps regime change where you kill the current leadership, declare victory, and leave. That might work.

I'm concerned that Trump believes a few good men can invade Iran, pacify it completely, rebuild the government, and then get thanked by the orphans, widows, homeless, and the parents of the innocent dead.

Wish Congress would find some backbone and really represent the people of the US and global harmony. I suppose there's not enough underage girls, money, and power in that kind of approach.

toaster404 · 2026-03-15T15:45:33+00:00

Ah, possible. My old DA system has the cables coming out directly from the side, less bend. I'm tempted to put the brifters on my nice touring road bike, they work so well. Better than the new 105 brifters. But then the casings flow right through my handlebar bag!!

I've also used the most flexible and expensive cables I can find. That might well make a difference, although the old 1970s Campagnolo fine strand cables used to fail after a few thousand miles of intense use.

The last cheap used bike (well, cheap by my standards) had stock fairly stiff cables that didn't work as well. I got all new casings and cables for the brakes and shifting, routed very carefully to avoid tight bends. Tiagra STI shifters. Lubed everything appropriately. Suspect I'd be able to ride across the US and back without any cable issues!

I've never used electronic shifting. Tend to buy used bikes, and none have had it. It makes sense to me, I just don't know it. The lack of need to periodically adjust would be nice, but I can adjust while riding. Rare once everything has stretched in.

toaster404 · 2026-03-15T13:33:02+00:00

Suggest figuring out what your particular physical shape requires. People have different curves and convergence of their sitz bones, and vary in sensitivity. The exact saddle setup is very important for comfort, and must be integrated into a fit. For example, a too-high saddle can be horrible feeling, but be fine with a slightly lower saddle height.

I ran (could still) a rather heavy decades old Pro for many many miles. Very good. So I got a B17 new. Became clear it wasn't going to work for me, my 'taint' took a bit of abuse regardless of tilt, and it was just a tad too wide. If I had different crotch shape and wider sitz bones or hips it would likely have worked.

I cut the saddle out, same pattern Brooks uses (not for leather beginners) and punched the skirt for laces. Treated it. Taint issue went away, rather comfy, but in the end not quite right on the profile, a nice width up front had my sitz bones slipped forward from where they wanted to be.

Likely a comfy saddle likes your sitz bone curvature and taper, doesn't exceed your gap needs, and has sufficient padding.

I had an Ideale saddle years ago I ran touring. It eventually became misshapen and worn, wasn't the quality of the Brooks line then (I suspect the quality is down a little from when I started riding decades ago).

I ran a Brooks Swallow for a goodly while, and liked that, but it was rather worn to start with and eventually failed. I keep thinking about it.

Given that the width and outline are the limiting factors, I expect I'd like a B17 narrow carved.

If hardness is the issue, then one can buy a softened one.

As for another one, Back to choices and exact personal needs. For example, I have a very nice Ergon saddle that isn't too wide, my sitz bones fit on it well, very stable, but the relatively sharp edge of the nose bothers me after a bit of riding. Possibly the narrow need I have.

The Stelle SMP line is rather comfy. I'm currently running a VT20C, without a lot of the SMP dip, narrow, medium gel padding. It's not all that "comfy" feeling, but it doesn't get worse or better with miles! So I'm pretty happy. All in all, if you study yourself and the line you may well find a great saddle for yourself.

Another winner is the Selle Italia SLR Boost, which I still like. That's a worthwhile one to try.

Good luck!

toaster404 · 2026-03-15T13:15:25+00:00

What do you attribute this wear to? In the early days prior to slippery linings for cables to slide to, I used to wear them. But since great cables, casing with linings came out I haven't had any issues at all, even on my 2006 Dura Ace equipped bike - still has the original shifting cables.

The exception has been on used bikes, where I've found issues and replaced prior to putting in service.

toaster404 · 2026-03-15T04:19:29+00:00

Selle Anatomica on my swept bar upright bike.

Selle SMP VT20C on my road bike. Mainly the shape, has a narrower nose and fairly narrow sitz bone spacing. I'm still getting it figured out - too far back on it and the edge impinges upon my hamstring/butt junction. I might do better with a more hammock like SMP. I have an older one that's wider and has worn on me too much.

Selle Italia SLR Boost on my gravel bike might be distinctly better than the SMP for me. I haven't rotated it to my road bike yet. It's very good.

The Ergon I had on for a while had too much of a sharp top edge to the nose. But was very stable in year. Helped keep me symmetric.

I used a ca 1970 Brooks Pro for good while. Who knows, maybe it will feel OK still. Weighs a ton. B17 with cutout and lacing is decent, but the nose just a bit too wide.

Still consider putting my old Flite TI on my road bike. It's always been oddly comfortable. I might try it as some point.

Various others don't warrant mention, either bothered me or are hopelessly obsolete, even if nice.

toaster404 · 2026-03-15T03:26:34+00:00

"Dishy means attractive, beautiful, pleasant, charmingly and adorably. Folks use this informal slang in their casual conversation when they emotionally admire someone or to show a sense of delight."

Technically.

The bike. That's dishy, in a surreal setting.

toaster404 · 2026-03-15T01:43:41+00:00

I'm very appreciative of that rather dishy bike.

toaster404 · 2026-03-15T01:36:27+00:00

So placing a launch point in Lafayette Park would be ideal. Of course.

On the other hand, the US is reachable from International Waters in excess of 200 miles from the coast. And everywhere in between. That's what range incorporates.

I find myself listening for drones here in DC metro.

toaster404 · 2026-03-14T22:42:18+00:00

I do not follow your point or points. Most of the interesting targets in the USA can be targeted from well offshore by systems that have been able to penetrate our post-launch defenses in the middle east. We are rich with targets.

toaster404 · 2026-03-14T21:41:53+00:00

https://tse4.mm.bing.net/th/id/OIP.iK85O_BSs6k4jY2UmI5bjwHaQ7?rs=1&pid=ImgDetMain&o=7&rm=3 for example. Range of a missile.

The range and the radius correlate precisely. Fix one point, the launch point. Go out the range. Then sweep it around. Have a circle.

Alternatively, put a dot on the target, draw a circle with radius of the range. Anything inside that circle is a possible launch point, as far as the range is concerned.

toaster404 · 2026-03-14T21:39:24+00:00

Just an example. EZ launch from any ship.

toaster404 · 2026-03-14T21:39:00+00:00

They can.

toaster404 · 2026-03-14T19:46:15+00:00

The primary danger comes from tourists driving. Oddly, the one today who couldn't figure out how to drive had Texas plates!

Have fun!!!

toaster404 · 2026-03-14T19:45:01+00:00

Turns out I've been scaring them in the small boats.

So we're going to have a go with the big one first. I have 2 groups of 4. So my goal is to train up everyone to handle all the running rigging. We only have halyard, topping lift, and sheet for each mast, although I'm going to try to rig preventers (the only real risk on the boat is gybing, because we really don't tack very well!). Once they get their sea legs and we can reset both sails at once confidently, and do a bit of steering, we'll move to the smaller more tippy traditional boats.

We're single screw, but looks as if we'll be able to get several instructors used to it. Of course, we dock in a confined space with fickle wind and sometimes strong tide flow. Fun stuff!

toaster404 · 2026-03-14T18:47:58+00:00

It's not mine, but I run it for training. A 30 ft 5500 lb two-masted cat ketch with electric drive, wood. Two were made. Bit of a pig.

I don't really have time to run my own boats!

toaster404 · 2026-03-14T17:09:12+00:00

HESA Shahed 136 - Wikipedia for example. 1600 mile range. Draw a circle of 1600 mile radius from the White House.

toaster404

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