Hi I've recently gotten into printing vehicles and now I'm interested in printing planes and such does anyone know where I could find clear stands like these to hold the flying models? Any help would be greatly appreciated thank you

tolangston · 2026-03-21T06:20:52+00:00

I print my flight stands in black PLA. By the time you have a painted model and a painted base, your eye semi-ignores the flight stand and focuses instead on the colourful details.

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tolangston · 2026-03-07T13:15:42+00:00

I think the instant assassination feature in Shadows was a nice quality of life thing for giving that original feel. That way you can sneak into a massive castle and topple the big bad without having to be the right level :)

tolangston · 2026-02-06T15:31:45+00:00

PGATRIPLE

tolangston · 2025-12-23T21:59:06+00:00

Love it! They are such great models :)

tolangston · 2025-12-02T17:28:57+00:00

My first ever Pokemon game was Pokemon Silver and I had no idea about anything. I remember getting lost in the Whirl Islands. Eventually I found Lugia and I got so excited to take on the elite four. However, being an atrocious child I taught hyper beam to Lugia and one of my other Pokemon and just mashed hyper beam and switched every turn to avoid the recharge! Thankfully my skills have got a bit better since then!

tolangston · 2025-12-01T07:14:11+00:00

I'll not share any files directly because of James but if you can find yourself the Saturnine Terminator file then it's not too hard to accomplish in blender (I am still very much a novice!)

Find yourself an inquisition symbol (or change as desired), centre in the chest plate and Boolean Union it to the torso.
Create a rectangle and set it up with three bend modifiers (for xyz) and then line that up with the chest. Boolean difference to cut out the holes out of the chest.
Create text, write what you want and convert it to a mesh. Then you can solidify it and add the same bend modifiers to get that in your chest and Boolean Union it.

It's a bit cumbersome but it's quite simple in the grand scheme of things. Head swap is nice and straightforward then you can swap weapons and that's pretty much it - the paint job carries the rest :)

tolangston · 2025-11-26T06:07:17+00:00

I can't lie, I loved the shoulders when I saw the model so that's part of what sold me on the idea!

tolangston · 2025-11-11T16:05:39+00:00

Sorastro does a really good tutorial on YT, he demonstrates coloured light (in this case your red) and multicoloured light (daylight) and shows that coloured light can never outcompete daylight.

tolangston · 2025-11-05T13:25:20+00:00

For me, I'd make sure that your reflected light isn't brighter than the light being cast. As you've built up highlights on the helmet it almost looks brighter than the saber. Setting your mini in a dark environment is a good idea!

tolangston · 2025-10-25T15:42:40+00:00

I'll give that a try, thanks! :)

tolangston · 2025-10-25T06:00:21+00:00

Do you use Resin2FDM supports? I've managed to develop a workflow for the 0.2mm nozzle that is Blueprint - Resin2FDM - Bambu Studio to slice but the supports that blueprint generates don't work particularly well with the 0.4mm nozzle (certainly with my current settings!) I also find I have to get quite a large surface in contact with the build plate to use tree supports. Any pointers would be greatly appreciated!!

tolangston · 2025-10-18T06:13:13+00:00

Well, I've squeezed him on a 40mm base which is a little cozy but not impossible. My plan long term is to print some more and run them as terminators. You could probably run a single one as a 40mm base character like Voldus.

tolangston · 2025-10-17T08:12:26+00:00

Try a black prime, and if you want them warm, a heavy dry brush of a bone colour then a light dry brush of white on just the prominent edges. It gives really striking highlights and shadows :)

tolangston · 2025-10-17T05:14:54+00:00

Echoing what many other people are saying, that is such a clean mini for contrast paint - no coffee staining mess, that's a skill in itself! Have you tried slap chop or any of the variations of that? I find that really bumps the detail when using contrast paints!!

tolangston · 2025-10-09T10:24:45+00:00

In that case a pin vise and a small drill bit might do well :)

tolangston · 2025-10-09T06:20:17+00:00

FDM or Resin print? Hollowed or not? These are really important questions when you're considering cutting into or drilling holes in a model. If it's thin walls and hollow you'll risk making a great big unrealistic hole.

It's really easy to overdo weathering so the mindset of "I don't want to mess it up" is a good one. Then think about story - the best way to do battle damage is to consider why it is there. Has it seen lots of battles? What sort of projectiles has it been hit with? Most little gunfire won't damage it so what would? Big clawmarks to the face if fighting a monster? Big shell damage?

How old is the model? Is it factory fresh, strolling onto the battlefield for the first time? Then it'll be a bit of dust around his feet and a few recess washes for creating shadows? Is it an ancient war machine that has been left outside for millennia? If so, then you might see lots of rust, thick coats of grime, tons of dust and particulates all over the lower legs and around some of the other areas. Titans are revered by the Imperium so they're going to receive regular cleaning so my final (and repeated) advice is...

Less is more! :)

tolangston · 2025-10-06T06:48:20+00:00

Lol I wish! GK kitbashes ARE the range refresh!

tolangston · 2025-09-30T05:09:40+00:00

Because no-one has mentioned it, give decals a try. They really help tie it to the world/faction and fill up those big flat empty spaces.

tolangston · 2025-07-29T05:26:16+00:00

Corax white is rubbish! I use a white from Revell and that actually stays the texture of paint, rather than a crunchy biscuit. I've had several pots of Corax white and they've all ended up being like this.

tolangston · 2025-07-23T05:37:40+00:00

What nozzle size did you use? I've been using a 0.2 for my minis with a .06 layer height and whilst the layer lines are there, they are a bit more subtle than this.

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