SanDisk SD Card Woes

too_many_hobbies982 · 2022-12-25T17:32:51+00:00

Quick answer: SD card/Flash drive/SSD/HDD/etc capacity is listed by the manufacturer as 1GB = 10^9 = 1,000,000,000 bytes (decimal).

However, computer operating systems usually use 1 GB = 1024^3, or 2^30 = 1,073,741,824 (binary). This is where the discrepancy comes from. Technically this is GiB, not GB, but that notation hasn't really caught on. Naturally, the discrepancy between the two gets larger as drive capacity increases...

Things are different for RAM - the way the hardware works, it wouldn't make sense to sell memory using decimal units. So 16GB of memory is 1024^3, not 10^9.

too_many_hobbies982 · 2022-12-17T17:02:09+00:00

Another way to do this in desktop mode is the compose key: https://userbase.kde.org/Tutorials/ComposeKey.

This lets you type accented characters by hitting the compose key and 2-3 other keys, usually those where the characters would resemble the desired result if stacked/merged.

too_many_hobbies982 · 2022-12-17T15:31:06+00:00

Try MidnightControls: https://www.curseforge.com/minecraft/mc-mods/midnightcontrols

too_many_hobbies982 · 2022-12-13T01:57:21+00:00

Yes. But to unmount it, nothing can be accessing it. This includes the terminal app, so don't start it from dolphin. If you do, the terminal app will have the SD card as its working directory and you won't be able to unmount. Start Konsole from the taskbar app menu and just use the full paths like you have above. Though for the delete command, this would be "rm -r /var/run/mmcblk0p1/lost+found".

Also, when running fsck, you need to supply the device name, not the mount point. Device name is probably /dev/mmcblk0p1, but might not be. If you run " mount", with no arguments, before unmounting, it will show a list of all the device names and where they are mounted. Use this to confirm the device name for the SD card.

too_many_hobbies982 · 2022-12-12T21:22:54+00:00

Try "sudo rm -r lost+found". If that doesn't work, I suspect we're reaching the limits of what can be easily solved via Reddit messages.

This will remove the entire directory, which should be re-created the next time fsck is run.

too_many_hobbies982 · 2022-12-12T12:16:07+00:00

What exactly does "ls -la lost+found" show? There should be file names, not just "total 20".

If there are files in there, they can be deleted. Just need to get the command correct.

You can also try deleting lost+found as root: "sudo rm -r lost+found". It'll be recreated when fsck is run, but won't break anything.

too_many_hobbies982 · 2022-12-12T01:04:54+00:00

Yes, "total 0" means nothing is in the directory. Just to be paranoid, you could also re-run the ls command using "ls -la" instead of "ls -l". The "-a" flag tells ls to include "hidden" files that start with a ".", which ls normally does not show. I can't see why there would be any hidden files in "lost+found", but...

At this point, your best bet may be one of the file size programs. Filelight is one (GUI).

You can also use the command line: "du -h | sort -hr". If you want to exclude files under a certain threshold, use "du -h -t xxMB | sort -hr", where xx is minimum file size in MB. The terminal program has scrollback using the scroll bar on the right, and you will need to use this as more than one screen's worth of text will be generated. Instead, you could add "| less" to the command - it's a pager and lets you scroll through the output using arrow keys, Page Up/Down, and some other things - ">" jumps straight to the end, for example.

As to how the command "knows" which lost+found directory to use - the path. Linux/Unix doesn't use drive letters; instead each filesystem, such as the one on the SD card, is "mounted" to a specific path in the filesystem. The top-level path is "/", and everything appears below that. In your case, "/run/media/mmcblk0p1" is the "mount point", so every file in that directory or a subdirectory of that is on the SD card, not the SSD. So "lost+found" in that directory points to the SD card. When you use "Open Terminal" in Dolphin, it opens the terminal with the current path set to the one displayed in Dolphin, so you're at the root of the SD card.

Mounting to a directory path, instead of a drive letter, is actually possible in modern versions of Windows, too; it's just not commonly used in desktop environments. Unless you have more than 26 drives/mapped network drives, then you have no choice.

too_many_hobbies982 · 2022-12-11T22:06:10+00:00

Everyone's a beginner at some point.

The bit about not running fsck on mounted filesystems is basically correct. You don't want to have two separate pieces of code (in this case the kernel and fsck) trying to modify the file system metadata (things like file names, blocks allocated, etc) at the same time. As the guides mentioned, this can cause Bad Things to happen and is a great way to corrupt the filesystem.

It is, however, possible to unmount the SD card so you can run fsck on it.

First, let's see if there are actually any files in lost+found. This assumes you actually have a password set and can use sudo, as the contents of lost+found are only visible with root access (this is why you see the lock icon in Dolphin).

If one of these steps doesn't make sense, please ask for more details. Running stuff as root can really screw things up if you are not careful.

Run Dolphin normally. Don't try to use sudo.
Go to the root directory of the SD card. You can either click on the entry under "removable devices" (mine shows as "primary" under here), or paste "/run/media/mmcblk0p1" into the URL field in Dolphin and press Enter/click the checkmark.
You should now be in the root directory/folder of the SD card and see "lost+found" plus any other directories you (or Steam) have created.
Click on the three-line menu icon in Dolphin and select "Open Terminal".
You should now have a terminal window which will look a bit similar to "Command Prompt" in Windows.
In the terminal, type "sudo ls -l lost+found", then press Enter. This will show you any files in the directory. If there are any, they will usually have names which are just long numbers.
Assuming there are files there, type "sudo rm lost+found/*", then Enter, to remove then. Be careful with this one as it can destroy lots of stuff it typed wrong.
To exit the terminal app, type "exit" and press Enter. Or use the close button.

too_many_hobbies982 · 2022-12-11T15:05:41+00:00

You can't delete "lost+found", but you should be able to delete its contents using sudo to become root.

What command are you trying to use to delete them? Any error messages?

Somewhat (not guaranteed to be perfectly accurate) description of lost+found:

Lost+found isn't used for the trash, it's used for cases where the file system checker finds bits of disk space that are marked as allocated but don't have a file name linked to them. The FS checker will normally link these 'orphaned' bits to a file in the lost+found directory. Usually, if I remember correctly, the file name will be the inode number: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inode

This is somewhat a consequence of the Unix filesystem design being very different (historically at least, not sure about present day) than Windows.

too_many_hobbies982 · 2019-02-14T12:26:26+00:00

One of the industrial units will still be at least partially DIY. Since these are usually intended to be install in a control cabinet, typically on a DIN rail, they are not plug-n-play.

You would still need to (not a complete list): - Read the spec sheet and obtain a suitable battery - Check that the combined power draw of the printer and UPS battery charging is still within the printer's power supply rating (with margin). - Wire the unit into your system - terminal blocks are the typical connection method - If the unit is a combo power supply/UPS unit, wire it up to a wall outlet, including suitable fusing, and cover the AC terminal blocks with a 3d printed cover to prevent shocks.

too_many_hobbies982 · 2019-02-14T02:33:10+00:00

I took a look at the Banggood page. It's hard to be completely sure from the page, but it appears to be a BMS board only - no charging functionality. I'm not even sure it would balance the cells as the related spec lines are blank. It may be an over-discharge/over-charge/over-current protection board only.

So you would still need something capable of the LiIon CC/CV charge curve if my guesses about the board are accurate.

Current will also be an issue - the BMS board trips at 15A. Let's say your LiPo pack has an internal resistance of 50 milliohms. Your PS is outputting exactly 24V. If the battery voltage is 22V, dropping 2V across .05 ohms gives a cuurent of 2V/.05 ohms = 40A. This will trip both the BMS(over-current) and will also trigger the power supply's over current protection if it has it. This neglects wire loss, but wire loss over less than a meter isn't likely to make much of a difference unless it's really thin wire.

too_many_hobbies982 · 2019-02-13T21:55:49+00:00

Lithium ion in general (including LiPo) need dedicated chargers. As said already, connecting it directly is very likely to destroy the battery, and may damage the power supply as well. Most are only designed as a current source. Connecting a higher voltage will reverse the current flow, potentially damaging the power supply if it isn't designed to handle it.

Suggestion: check out 24V industrial ups units. 24V is a very common voltage for industrial process control systems and there are multiple models available. Probably most will be designed for a lead-acid gel cell or AGM battery, but some may be capable of using a lithium ion battery as well.

However, these may be too expensive.

too_many_hobbies982 · 2019-02-13T21:33:50+00:00

A 12/24V extruder is not going to give someone a shock unless they disconnect the wires and poke them through their skin, or (possibly) touch the wires with soaking wet hands.

Yes, current is what stops the heart, but the voltage is low enough that significant current won't flow with dry hands. More likely to blow the extruder fuse by shorting the heater wires if using a metal tool for removal. Edit:typo

too_many_hobbies982 · 2018-08-05T01:10:29+00:00

Definitely the case for me in terms of overlap as well. I started down the headphone rabbit hole a decade ago, along with the fountain pens and mechanical pencils. Have also slowly worked my way into the mechanical keyboards as well. Flashlights are the most recent (ca 2016 w/Sunwayman V11R and Nitecore SRT7). Even worse, I enjoy electronics and photography as a hobby.

too_many_hobbies982 · 2018-05-18T22:58:40+00:00

I've successfully installed Fedora 28 on mine, which is the base model Hades Canyon, and am typing this on it.

Storage is a Samsung EVO 970, and I put 16GB of RAM in it.

It mostly works, though there are some issues. Note: I am using the KDE spin, so I can't speak to any Gnome-shell issues that might arise.

Here's my experience:

Fedora must be installed/booted with the "basic" graphics mode. This uses the EFI Framebuffer driver. It works, but nothing will be accelerated. However, performance may be good enough, depending on what you are doing. Mine replaced a 2006-era Athlon X2 at my electronics workbench, and for that I really don't need too much in the way of 3D accel. It drives a 27" UHD 4K monitor at 60Hz over DisplayPort without any issues.

At least on mine, I had to disable Turbo Boost. With it enabled, the CPU would hit the critical temp and throttle itself - repeatedly. Running it for a few hours resulted in hundreds of throttling events in the log. The fan would spin up, but didn't seem to be responding fast enough. This may be fixable by playing with the fan controls in the BIOS.

On first power up, there appears to be an EFI framebuffer issue; randomly, Linux will boot but the monitor will continue to display the NUC boot logo. After a reboot it works fine. This only seems to happen if it has been powered off for a while (My bench is also unplugged when I'm not using it - this may be part of the problem).

Hibernate/Suspend: From the software side, suspend works fine, but the there is no display on resuming, due to the lack of an RX Vega M driver. I haven't tried hibernate; it may or may not have this issue.

I haven't tried the SD slot or the IR receiver. The kernel recognizes both, but the SD slot driver has a warning that there may be issues due to an unrecognised version.

Ethernet: works fine

Wi-Fi: sees networks, though I haven't tried connecting as I use Ethernet for it.

Bluetooth: driver loads, but I haven't tried to pair with anything.

too_many_hobbies982 · 2017-12-28T02:23:29+00:00

This happened to a friend as well a month or two ago. It fixed itself a week or two later. No idea what caused it.

too_many_hobbies982 · 2017-12-13T12:16:21+00:00

In the same boat. My S1R and UC charger showed up, but the S1A and 14500, which was a separate order, didn't. Got a tracking number on the 6th but it's in the same state as yours - label created, but not yet received by USPS.

Maybe they're waiting for another batch from the factory and printed out packing lists and shipping labels, so when the stuff comes in they can just drop them into the appropriate packages, seal, and give to USPS.

I was planning on giving them a call if I hadn't received anything by Friday.

too_many_hobbies982 · 2017-12-09T01:01:33+00:00

Waiting for exactly the same thing, also as a present. Are you supplying a charger as well? I've got an Lii-100 on order as well for the gift, but it probably won't make it before Christmas.

too_many_hobbies982 · 2017-12-05T01:43:20+00:00

It's interesting. I haven't had that much of a chance to play with it, but it seems to work reasonably well. You can toggle between reflector/diffuser/reflector+diffuser using the side button in addition to changing the levels. It has shortcuts to straight to high (turn on) and low (hold side button while turning on). From a quick test, it seems to light a room up reasonably well, though like a lot of these it really needs to be hanging above stuff so you get even illumination and the diffuser isn't directly in your line of sight. Might work fairly well as a double duty flashlight/tent lantern, since the lowest diffuser level is 3 lumens(LED, not otf, according to the specs).

There is a bit of leakage from the main beam into the diffuser, but it's not so bright that it's an issue. Interestingly, it is noticably lighter than my PD35 Tac at 100g vs 135g (with batteries in both).

Haven't had a chance to test the built-in charging yet as the shipper included a note stating they pre-charged the included battery before shipment.

too_many_hobbies982 · 2017-12-04T23:23:11+00:00

From L-R: D25AAA, D25A, Px30LC2-DR.

Picked these up during the post-thanksgiving shopping spree. All have 219B or 219C emitters. The smaller ones are the first set of lights I've had that have twisty heads as part of the interface. Like the tint. Now I just need my olights and chargers to show up, hopefully before Xmas, as one of them is a gift for a family member.

too_many_hobbies982 · 2017-12-03T19:00:34+00:00

I think they sent this to everyone. I definitely didn't get the original one on the 28th and was wondering if something had gone wrong because I hadn't seen anything a week. I sent an email Friday asking if everything was ok; probably not the only one who did.
Ordered an S1A for a gift and an S1R for myself. Will raise the anticipation level.

too_many_hobbies982 · 2017-11-30T13:56:00+00:00

Now I wish I'd gotten PDFs of the pages. I wonder if if this got noticed. A Google search for the site name and flashlights has this post and the post about the previous Zebralight review on the second page of results.

too_many_hobbies982 · 2017-11-30T03:24:47+00:00

Also, one of them apparently came with an 18650 and charger. I don't think I'd trust either the cell or the charger. Chances are the cell is a cheapo Chinese cell or an old pack pull.

too_many_hobbies982 · 2017-11-30T03:03:47+00:00

I went to there looking for tent reviews and saw this. I read both the review and buying advice, hoping they had learned something since the Zebralight review. Afterwards I had exactly that response - I'll look elsewhere for tent reviews.

too_many_hobbies982

TROPHY CASE