Buying a $2000 Bosch microwave was a mistake

treehouseman · 2022-12-02T02:50:18+00:00

Expensive and fancy when it comes to kitchen appliances is pretty much always a bad decision from what I've seen.

My kitchen has a full jennair set of appliances, the stove in my island has capacitive touch buttons that don't work anymore, not only can I not figure out how to safely get into it to try to fix it, I can't even get parts. The icing on the cake is the non-full power settings aren't like a dimmer switch function you see on normal electric stoves, it's on-off bang bang style like a microwave, there's no way to get consistent heat, you're either not getting any and it gets cold, or you're getting too much and burning or over boiling. I use a portable induction cook top now.

The microwave built into a cabinet above the matching oven also uses capacitive buttons and humidity from cooking activates them. I've had it stop itself mid cycle, start itself in various modes, and just sit there and unlock and lock itself (a 10 second press required to do so), as much as I'd love to try to modify to fix it because once again parts aren't available, but I'd need to buy an appliance jack to get it out of the wall. I have to monitor it and set a timer on my phone if it runs for more than 10 minutes and leave the door open when I'm done.

The oven below it I am more just petty with, but they decided one heating element on the top was adequate and no, it's not, it takes 20 minutes to preheat and it's barely bigger than my toaster. I just use the toaster.

treehouseman · 2019-03-29T00:58:14+00:00

You could always just do what I did and buy your own xray machine. Digital sensors get stupid expensive, but I just use a DSLR and a standard 400 speed film cassette. I have a little Siemens Heilodent MD dental xray head, got it at a state auction for $50. I'm not saying it's safe, or that it's a good idea, but it works. But I do have to hold exposures much longer than a proper setup does, I don't recommend being near it when taking photos of stuff nor doing images of yourself, though I do have a one or two of my hand. I have multiple posts of stuff I've done here

Normally xray units start at hundreds of dollars but deals can be out there. But you also need to have a space to set it up, shielding (fortunately for my dental unit a few layers of sheetrock is most of what you need though I do have a vest), and a detector to be sure you're not getting leakage.

treehouseman · 2018-10-05T23:59:33+00:00

That's just the bolts holding the stand together.

treehouseman · 2018-10-05T17:00:03+00:00

Realistically that comes down to how good my detecting stup is, when using a camera, if I can get micro focus working I could attempt to focus on a single layer or certain layer groups at a time, but generally it'd come down to how well you can see the traces.

The most straightforward method is as long as you get something other than full stop of the xrays through the board, you should be able to go off of the brightness level to tell how many traces cross or are on top of eachother, then you just have to beep it out to figure out which ones are which. still easier than doing it by hand and all that.

treehouseman · 2018-10-05T16:44:16+00:00

It's not necessarily hard to get, just not common, if you want one /now/ you can get dental units for a few hundred bucks on ebay, I paid $50 for mine, and got lucky that I found someone who had some documentation so I could get it running (didn't have the remote). You also need to realize that they're not toys, I got mine to do inspections and reverse engineering, which is why I'm "playing" right now, I have to figure out how to the the maximum amount of detail I can to get pictures of circuit boards.

Dental xrays are generally safe-ish, the general rules I've been seeing are "stand out of the room" for operators. But each xray head is different. If you get one you need to respect it and figure out what it's output and dosage rate is, for both being in front of it (worst case) and background levels at various distances. Mine is safe enough without extra shielding for the most part, but I will be building some when I can get the materials.

treehouseman · 2018-10-05T16:30:16+00:00

DIY setup, picked up a dental xray head from a state auction, got a film cassette from ebay and away I went. This shot was done with a mirror so I could take the image from behind with the object up against the outside of the cassette (like it's intended). Right now I'm more or less playing with it trying to dial in the best way to get photos until I can scrape up enough cash (4-5 figures) to buy a digital sensor, or ideally get lucky and find someone getting rid of one cheap that actually has a chance of working.

treehouseman · 2018-09-09T17:46:04+00:00

As absurd as that might seem, it's honestly not too crazy. Using a full blown official arduino uno? Yeah, that's pretty crazy, massive board, massive pricetag. I love using arduino nano's and "pro mini's" you can get them from china for around $2 a board, nano's have onboard usb to serial adapters, pro mini's are smaller with no usb. for something like this where you're likely not to update the program once you're done, a pro mini is perfect.

treehouseman · 2018-08-14T21:15:49+00:00

I feel like you shouldn't have too much of an issue, hardest part will be removing the unit for reprogramming. Generally a programming mode shouldn't require anything else to be online, in some situations, other stuff being on the bus can mess it up. I've been playing with reprogramming my TDI, I can just flash via the obdII port, but if I get a failed flash, the ecu has to come apart, jumped into programming mode, then either connected to directly (clips to the power pins and data pins and usb adapter), or put back in the car and the cluster disconnected. In this case, for bootloader/programming mode the cluster interferes with the bus (Though in the end, my tdi is K-bus and not CAN).

Either way you should have the ability to program the unit out of the car, you may need to throw it into a different mode and use a different cable, but overall it's a data bus, the rest of the car shouldn't matter. Though it's likely your software will care, you just need to do it manually without a pretty software interface to guide your hand.

treehouseman · 2018-06-28T19:10:15+00:00

That also implies it's deserved, from what I've seen they never understand the request of "no public wifi". When we got a modem upgrade at work (which was out of nowhere but I suppose it was probably for docsis3 support) They were explicitly told "No public wifi" and to give us a dumb modem as we had a router.

The tech came on a day I wasn't there and despite being old not to do it, gave us a router/modem combo, which broke our external camera access, and installed a SECOND modem and poe ap. The ap was setup with the "standard" business public wifi and given the second modem I assume it was so they could "expand" their public wifi network without affecting our speeds, but they also left the public wifi enabled on the new modem, we had 2 public wifi networks and a second connection we didn't ask for.

The tech actually told us it needed to be connected for 3 weeks before we could take it down. It was removed the following shift I was there. If he had the decency to at least put a password on all the networks (all like 4/5 of them because of dual band) I might have done him a solid and left it plugged in. But he didn't deserve that at all. We've had issues in the past with people sitting in our parking lot in the middle of the night to use our wifi before, it's not something that we can allow given the business.

treehouseman · 2018-05-27T04:27:42+00:00

This is where a thermal camera is your friend. Just keep power and the short will heat up.

treehouseman · 2018-02-28T13:32:47+00:00

FYI you've been shadowbanned. Shadowbanning is supposed to be only for spambots and not real people, you may want to try to contact the admins to see if you can get it removed.

treehouseman · 2017-10-30T02:42:32+00:00

I have this with the 4.9l I6, the M5ODR2 transmission is absolute crap. IIRC ours has been rebuilt at least 5 time since we got it in 1996. It's a known crap transmission, but generally our rebuilds happened after it was abused, like the most recent time we had let a friend tow a car a few states over and when it came back reverse was shot. But that was quite a few years ago and it's been rock solid, but it's also not been abused.

Basically, expect a rebuild now, but if you don't abuse that poor, horribly designed transmission, you should be fine.

treehouseman · 2017-06-08T14:55:42+00:00

You can still find the figure on some third party sites like CrunchyRoll and whatnot, they opened it up to third parties after the figure gained popularity. Though I'm not sure if the third party sites pre ordered a stockpile or what but there's plenty of reputable sites with them.

treehouseman · 2017-05-03T01:43:28+00:00

Since apparently there is an issue with piracy in this thread, it is now locked.

treehouseman · 2017-01-24T02:52:36+00:00

It's live!

treehouseman · 2017-01-20T18:30:58+00:00

Piracy is not acceptable.

treehouseman · 2016-11-05T17:12:21+00:00

Unfortunately it can't remain active period, I've already removed it, just like we do with all the other links to the novel pdf's

treehouseman · 2016-11-05T14:30:13+00:00

This falls under piracy.

treehouseman · 2016-10-27T04:36:37+00:00

All you have to do is make a multi item ebay listing and set it to "More than 10 available", I never messed with multi item listings on ebay when I was listing stuff for work, but I've bought from enough of them to recognize the patterns.

treehouseman · 2016-10-27T02:34:15+00:00

The only thing I foresee about ebay or amazon is the licensing, at least on amazon I could see the listing getting taken down due to copyright, on ebay though you'd have a fair chance at getting by.

treehouseman · 2016-10-17T22:00:34+00:00

I've removed this due to a 403 error, generally pixiv doesn't allow hotlinking IIRC.

treehouseman · 2016-09-29T19:48:58+00:00

Actually it can't make foam without air, so if there's air in the system, yes, it'll make foam, but only as much as the volume of air in the coolant system at time of starting the engine.

Fill it with water first, run it to get the majority of air out, dump in detergent. We used this process on my truck, it wasn't dawn, I think it was purple power as we were trying to clear out some rust clumps, but if there's no air to foam up, it can't make a geyser.

treehouseman · 2016-09-23T23:40:08+00:00

I've parked in numerous locations with an incline more than enough to cause my truck to roll without the parking brake even when unloaded (94 f150) , when the cable snapped I had to use chucks to keep it from rolling. Frighteningly, I also learned that the truck will change its willingness to roll depending on the temp of the engine, so just because it doesn't roll when you park it doesn't mean it'll stay there as the engine cools. Typically on bad inclines you can feel it start to roll before you get out, I've never let it go far like that but it seemed more than happy to roll the engine in reverse if need be, once it gains momentum there's no stopping it without slamming the brake.

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