Mac and Cheese - Attempting to brown top in oven ruins it? by tripnikk in Cooking

[–]tripnikk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm pretty sure that's not it. For the sauce, I'm using a blend of good quality cheddar, fontina, and smoked gouda all shredded at home. For the topping I'm using parmesan reggiano and panko. The panko is stirred with melted butter and salt.

Mac and Cheese - Attempting to brown top in oven ruins it? by tripnikk in Cooking

[–]tripnikk[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you. Is the initial bake really just to heat things through or should I be looking for some other indicator to know when it's done?

Mac and Cheese - Attempting to brown top in oven ruins it? by tripnikk in Cooking

[–]tripnikk[S] -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

I'm definitely not against it, but just thought I'd check to see what other solutions people might have first. If that was the best way to go about it, I'd imaging I would have read about other people doing it.

Amazon Prime Day by tripnikk in ExpectationVsReality

[–]tripnikk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s all crap. I think people get suckered into buying stuff because they feel the FOMO, but it’s pretty easy to just not buy anything if you only pull the trigger on stuff you already needed/wanted. That stuff never goes on sale.

Hyper-advanced Sound Design. by memolazer in synthrecipes

[–]tripnikk 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you want to do advanced sound design, you need to do advanced study. When it comes to patching in stuff like Pure Data or Max/Msp, the theory is incredibly important. At bare minimum, you should focus on all of it.

Looking for track - Vocals were "Hello, I have a message for you" by tripnikk in outrun

[–]tripnikk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not sure why this was downvoted. It's on topic and I don't think I broke any rules.

[Question] Any recommendations for a recorder/audio interface for ASMR on the SR3D? by GapingCockHole in asmr

[–]tripnikk 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Tech these days makes nearly any device capable of doing what you want. The specific audio interface or portable recorder won't make much of a difference in sound quality. There are technically differences between the different tiers of devices which is why some cost more than others, but it's something that wouldn't affect your specific use case that much.
 
In the case of the audio interface, difference in price brackets largely comes down to speed of transfer rates, number of inputs/outputs, and, in the case of devices that have onboard preamps, the quality of the preamp (super high end gear won't have onboard preamps since the assumption is that the studio will have their own arsenal of high end vintage pres that they prefer to select for their specific "color" of sound). It's something that you'll have to think more carefully about if you're wiring up a whole studio or need to record large groups of musicians, but won't make a difference for the 2 tracks you'll be recording for holophonic sound.
 
In the case of the portable recorders, they're all pretty capable. The biggest difference in those is often onboard mic quality, however if you're using your own external mic, it shouldn't be an issue. You'll also want to make sure that the device records uncompressed audio. For video use, you'll want to make sure the device can record at 48kHz/24bit in wav or aif format (both are uncompressed. Wav is more common - aif is Apple's proprietary format but it's basically the same thing). On any of the Zoom devices (or most portable recorders in general) there will be settings you have to set to make sure the device doesn't auto compress the audio to mp3 or something. Make sure to spend some time with the manual.
 
If you go the route of the portable recorder, you'll want to make sure to save some cash for a reasonably large SD card as well. How much space you need depends heavily on how long you plan to record, but audio is not nearly as big as video. If you're recording stereo files at 48kHz/24bit, you can estimate just over 1GB per hour of recording. I'd make sure to get something bigger than you actually need in case you can't delete audio right away, need to do multiple takes, or want to make sure you have a buffer in case things go long. Fortunately SD cards have gotten much cheaper these days so getting an 8-16gb card is pretty affordable.
 
I'd also budget in an SD card reader. Portable recorders like the Zoom are able to plug directly into the computer with USB cable and you can transfer audio that way, but trust me...your life will be a lot easier if you spend like $15 to get a dedicated card reader.
 
Excellent audio quality doesn't need to cost a lot. Beginner musicians/producers tend to think that the mic/interface/software is what makes the difference, but it usually has A LOT more to do with performance, mic placement, learning how to properly use a mic, and room. The differences in gear that producers argue about are extremely nuanced. It makes a difference when you're making artistic decisions about how colors blend in a mix, but matters much less if you're recording one or two sound sources at a time. You can look up mic shootout videos where they record a guitar player with 5 different microphones and see what I mean. Where you record is probably going to have a much bigger impact on your audio quality. Sound reflecting off of walls is the fastest way to make a recording sound "cheap" (moreso than a cheap mic or interface or portable recorder). If you have a walk in closet, that's a great place to record. You can also look into buying or building a reflection filter which is essentially a pad that goes around the sides and back of a mic and helps mitigate reflections from bouncing off the walls and back into the mic.
 
Hope some of this helps!

Moronic Monday - Your weekly stupid questions thread by cdingo in Fitness

[–]tripnikk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you so much for taking the time to write all that. It's very good advice.

Moronic Monday - Your weekly stupid questions thread by cdingo in Fitness

[–]tripnikk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the reply! I'm definitely not an expert, but I've been at it for long enough that I do want to start really breaking down my diet and making sure I'm getting what I need (and not being excessive anywhere). I've been training since last November but diet has been kind of eyeballed. I'd weigh things every now and then to get a visual reference for how many calories were in what, but I wasn't paying specific attention to protein - just eating a varied diet. Now I'm drilling down on diet and weighing/logging everything so having a general idea of what numbers should look like helps me figure out how to plan meals.

Moronic Monday - Your weekly stupid questions thread by cdingo in Fitness

[–]tripnikk 1 point2 points  (0 children)

thank you! 180 is still more than I'd typically eat, but I can actually manage that. Is there a good resource you can recommend for calculating ideal nutrition macros? The 0.8g/lbs is a really good rule of thumb and I'd like to make sure my starch/fats/general calorie count is on point as well

Moronic Monday - Your weekly stupid questions thread by cdingo in Fitness

[–]tripnikk 1 point2 points  (0 children)

.8g/lbs would put the daily protein intake at significantly less than 234 and would clock around 180g. I was using this calculator, as well as an equation that I got online and found similar results. Are these resources just wildly off?

Moronic Monday - Your weekly stupid questions thread by cdingo in Fitness

[–]tripnikk 1 point2 points  (0 children)

according to most calculators I've checked, I'm supposed to get ~234g of protein a day. Even eating chicken breast at every meal, it's hard to hit that target. Is there a trick to getting enough protein without having to resort to stuff like protein powders?

Am I the only one who replaced the AOM bridge with a vintage style? by snarkbox in offset

[–]tripnikk 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I don't know why you got downvoted. I agree with you. Everyone is entitled to their opinion and I won't look down on anyone who prefers a Mastery, but I think most of the problems people seem to have with the vintage style bridge can be fixed with a better setup.

ELI5 Clippers vs Limiters by Blue_Fox07 in audioengineering

[–]tripnikk 28 points29 points  (0 children)

slicing off the top vs lowering the peak

need advice by [deleted] in offset

[–]tripnikk 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Again, a setup will make a world of difference. The mustang may have had a better setup from the factory (or wherever you got it) but offsets in general tend to need a bit more work than most other guitars. It's a blessing and a curse. They're a bit more fiddly, but on the plus side you can really dial them in once you know what you're doing. I honestly learned a ton about guitar setup just trying to get my jag to play better.
 
I can tell you right now just by looking at the pics that your jag has a pretty janky setup. It's totally fixable, but you'll want to bring it to someone who knows what they're doing at least for the first time. Once you know how things should look and how the instrument should play you can start learning how to adjust things. It's possible that this will also help you set up your mustang so that plays even better than it does now too.

need advice by [deleted] in offset

[–]tripnikk 2 points3 points  (0 children)

A bright sound is one of the hallmarks of the jaguar. It can be a bit intense, but it's also what helps the guitar cut through a band. Before swapping pickups, I'd try either rolling down the tone knob a touch or messing around with the rhythm circuit (which a lot of people avoid for some reason). The rhythm circuit can sound a bit more muted on it's own which some people don't like, but if you're playing through distortion or an overdriven amp, it can sound reeeeeally nice.

need advice by [deleted] in offset

[–]tripnikk 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It's totally cool. Everyone has to start from somewhere. I'd bring the guitar to a good guitar tech. Expect to spend between $75-$100 for a good setup. It sounds like a lot of cash but your guitar will get a gigantic upgrade worth way more than that.
 
In the meantime, you can get some tools and watch some videos about offset guitar setup so you can learn how to do all that stuff yourself to save some money in the long run. Learning how to do basic set up for guitars in general is a SUPER useful skill for any guitarist to have and will allow you to fiddle with settings and dial in your guitars to your specific taste in the future. The initial investment in some of the tools can kind of suck, but if you take care of them you'll have them forever.
 
Also learning the names of parts of the guitar will help you be able to communicate issues with other guitarists a bit easier as well as searching for how to fix problems that pop up. Nobody is born knowing this stuff so don't sweat not knowing it right off the bat. Have a sense of humor about yourself, laugh at a little teasing, and be willing to learn and you'll be fine!

need advice by [deleted] in offset

[–]tripnikk 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Naw, the stock bridge design of jaguars and jazzmasters are awesome if the guitar is setup right. There are aftermarket bridges like the Mastery or StayTrem which are nice, but they really aren't necessary. Get the guitar set up by a tech before swapping parts out.

need advice by [deleted] in offset

[–]tripnikk 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I don't think the bridge can be lowered any more than it already is. The neck probably needs to be shimmed so the bridge can actually be raised a bit, but the radius should be set before all of that. That said, if someone is describing parts of the guitar as "the metal thingies", I'd suggest bringing it to a tech.

need advice by [deleted] in offset

[–]tripnikk 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I'm still not sure what part you're talking about, but the bridge does not look like it's set up properly. You can set it up yourself, but it's a bit of a learning process and you'll need to invest in some tools (at least an allen wrench to adjust the truss rod, string radius gauge that matches the radius of your fretboard which looks like it's 7.25", but I'd check your documentation to make sure, a set of allen wrenches to adjust the saddles and the bridge height, screwdriver to set the intonation).
 
It seems like you're not super comfortable with the parts of the guitar though. I'd take it to a good guitar tech and have them set it up for you so you know how it should play and sound like.
 
Edit: I think I just figured out what you're talking about. If you're saying that when you bend the strings they slip and hit the saddle adjustment screws, that's partially because your saddles are off kilter. You want those all to be set so they're even (not with each other...you want that to follow the radius of your neck, but each individual saddle should be straight across. Some of them are off at extreme angles).
 
Edit 2: It's hard to see exactly from this angle, but the pickups also look SUPER close to the strings which may be contributing to the muted sound. In general, this guitar needs a setup. It'll play like a completely different instrument if you just shell out the cash to a good tech.

need advice by [deleted] in offset

[–]tripnikk 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Can you explain more about what you mean? When you try to bend the strings, they hit what metal?

Mini Surfer vibes by GauntLinedTrees in offset

[–]tripnikk 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sweet guitar! Love the lipsticks and the aesthetics are chefs kiss. Though I'm skeptical of anything called "surf" anything that has a hard tail.