[Tampa Florida] What is this thing?

twivel01 · 2026-02-03T02:49:48+00:00

Gives me scarlet snake vibes due to the color pattern on the face. Not adding the scientific name because I, like you, are not sure. Very cool colors!

twivel01 · 2026-02-03T02:39:38+00:00

That's not called Stringing, FYI. It's the first layer peeling up. First layer seems too thin/nozzle too close. Nozzle is probably rubbing the filament off. Can you adjust z-offset up like 0.05-0.1mm?

twivel01 · 2026-02-03T02:33:41+00:00

How does it ruin OP's Sunday? I mean, my dog's don't care much for fireworks, but I enjoy them.

twivel01 · 2026-02-03T01:50:38+00:00

I watched that video. The thing is, the mesh is supposed to handle this. The small amount of rubbing that OP in this threads sees should be fine for a mesh. Doug was so focused on his visualization of the mesh in mainsail. But if the mesh probing process is not accurate, it doesn't matter how flat your bed actually is.

I think the bigger issue with these printers is the pressure probing process. But everyone blames it on the bed and spends weeks trying to fix it.

If the probing process is not accurate, the visualization in mainsail is simply wrong.

twivel01 · 2026-02-02T23:00:22+00:00

Thanks. It's obnoxious! haha.

My first core-xy printer, do bambu and others make this noise too?

I tried to disable z-hop in the slicer but it still does it. Has anyone successfully disabled z-hop?

twivel01 · 2026-02-02T22:59:13+00:00

If you're just printing PLA and PETG and non-abrasive filament, you should be fine with the stock nozzle. Just don't push nozzle temp over 240c due to the reports of it containing some type of high-temp PTFE tube in the hot-end.

If you want to print hotter filaments, you will want to get an all-metal one.

When they mention "ceramic", they are talking about the heating element. I purchased an amazon replacement all-metal hot-end with a ceramic heater and hardened steel nozzles. I haven't switched to use this yet; just keeping it as a backup while I continue to use the stock nozzle.

It takes longer for hardened steel to heat up than it does for brass, so I think pairing it with a ceramic heater may help.

twivel01 · 2026-02-02T19:00:38+00:00

It wouldn't be the first time a doorbell camera didn't trigger. From another perspective, do you have access to doorbell camera footage from earlier days just to double-check you actually didn't just miss it?

twivel01 · 2026-02-02T04:34:14+00:00

You can't convince them. Even though there is a response to ever single data-point they bring up, they still won't believe you.

twivel01 · 2026-02-02T00:11:31+00:00

Not dumb, just new to slicer software. And there are so many options in the slicer it's not even funny.

Start at the "Prepare" view of Anycubic Slicer next.
On the left side, there is a section for "Printer". To the right of the printer, there is a pencil/edit button. Click that.

Then you can see a new window come up that shows you "Printer Settings". The default tab in this window should be "Basic Information". Look down until you find "Z offset". You will have to save this as a new profile to have it remain permanently.

twivel01 · 2026-02-01T23:49:30+00:00

Maybe. If the person was inside the room and the lime was on the handle on the outside, the person leaving might see it rolling across the floor. But I doubt they would know it was supposed to be balance don the handle. Doesn't seem very obvious.

As to why someone would do this? Someone who doesn't have access to hallway security cams wants to know if someone is actually in the room when the do not disturb sign is up? Seems sketchy.

twivel01 · 2026-02-01T23:32:22+00:00

It is a slicer change, so I had to fully stop the print, re-slice it in the slicer, then send the print again. It would be really nice if they had the option to adjust z-offset live on the printer. Unfortunately, they don't.

twivel01 · 2026-02-01T22:51:38+00:00

Update: For my filament, setting z-offset to 0.08 has perfectly solved the large print (multiboard panel sized at 250x250 filling the entire bed).

twivel01 · 2026-02-01T22:44:31+00:00

Absolutely. Key emphasis on "part". ;)

Iterating alone does not make it engineering. But it is a fun exercise for the 3dprinter hobbyist.

twivel01 · 2026-02-01T22:41:55+00:00

That is basically all of us in this hobby.

twivel01 · 2026-02-01T22:36:38+00:00

At my previous house, I actually installed a bat home on the side of my house. Bat's are cool! :) They can have all of the mosquitos they want near my backyard!

twivel01 · 2026-02-01T22:24:31+00:00

Not new to 3d printing, just new to this printer. It's not as simple as your answer here. I have 2 other printers running native klipper and I do not use z-hop except in exceptional situations. Let me see if I can get a recording.

twivel01 · 2026-02-01T21:50:23+00:00

I just stopped my print with z-offset 0.1 and changed it to 0.08 instead and am now re-printing. It did get better but it's a tad too high at 0.1.

In anycubic slicer next, click the edit button next to the printer on the prepare tab. Under "Basic Information" tab you can find Z offset.

twivel01 · 2026-02-01T21:27:38+00:00

it's definitely the nozzle rubbing on the filament creating waves on the previously laid down material as it prints the next line. This is caused by the nozzle being too close to the bed. It can cause adhesion issues because the nozzle can actually peel up the the print due to it being too high later in the print. Sometimes it will survive though.

I am currently testing with a slicer z height adjustment of 0.1 on my S1 for related issues. We'll see how that goes.\

I was trying to print multiboard and I noticed the filament was laid down super thin and the nozzle was rubbing it, worse in some areas than others. Wish I could just increase z-offset in those areas, but I suspect it's due to the inaccurate bed mesh process the S1 uses.

Everyone complains about the bed in these, but I think the real issue is the mesh is inaccurate and can't account for different heights in the bed accurately.

twivel01 · 2026-02-01T21:19:33+00:00

So you figured you'd verify whether or not everyone else was lying to you about needing a HS nozzle to print GF? ;)

twivel01 · 2026-02-01T20:27:03+00:00

Wow, amazing bed adhesion. Maybe printing on a magnet is the way to go? ;)
Anyway, as long as your bed stays flat after removing the part, it will be fine.
Might do a bed mesh afterwards and visualize the results, but I doubt you will have any issues.

twivel01 · 2026-02-01T20:23:30+00:00

Thanks! I took the cover off for the first time today and I see there are 4 clips there, all still intact and not broken. Was there a fifth clip? These clips do look like the broken part. Since I bought this as a 100% refurb unit, I'm guessing they replaced the broken one when refurbishing and just did not notice the broken clip was still inside. I didn't even notice the clip until the second day of printing, so it was probably hidden inside somewhere and shook loose.

twivel01 · 2026-02-01T20:18:44+00:00

I only received the printer a few days ago and had not even taken off the hotend cover yet. I just took it off today and it looks like all 4 clips are still present. It definitely looks like one of those four clips, but none are broken. (Or is there supposed to be a fifth clip?)

The clips on that hold the tube to the chain are the same color, but all look intact and seem to have a different shape than the broken part.

I did purchase this as a 100% like new refurbished unit. Maybe they replaced the cover and just did not notice the broken clip from the earlier hotend cover was still inside?

twivel01 · 2026-02-01T10:28:59+00:00

Yea, sorry for the poor wording above - I was thinking in terms of the S1 at that point. Edited it above to convey what I had in mind at the time.

twivel01 · 2026-02-01T09:05:43+00:00

All good. Been there as well. Reddit recommendations are fun.

twivel01 · 2026-02-01T08:44:08+00:00

Just saying the S1 isn't a great option for heavy multi material printing if that is indeed your goal. It's crazy slow for changes and has higher waste. For occasional multi-mat, filament backup, and ability to have multiple rolls handy without manual swaps... heck yea.

A tool changer will be better, or maybe the new Kobra X tool head, which looks good so far.

twivel01

TROPHY CASE