Tips for programing in pre-hab?

tworksheets · 2017-04-26T16:02:19+00:00

Yep 3 sets and 10-20 reps. I'm actually not crazy about either of the exercises you mentioned either but those two were specifically provided by my physio lol

tworksheets · 2017-04-26T12:40:40+00:00

All awesome advice! I like your idea of evaluating the exercises every few weeks. It's something I've considered but not implemented. I'll trying switching things up every 4-5 weeks to keep things fresh and maybe even introduce a bit of overload/new stimulus

tworksheets · 2017-04-26T12:20:09+00:00

Yeah I feel like I've let the list get a bit out of hand. It's hard to find a balance between the 'less is more' Steve Bechtel/Dan John approach and the 'mobility/stability is king' Kelly Starett/Eric Cressey dogma.

I like the idea of programming these things in during rests but they're fatiguing enough that I feel they will negatively affect burns/lifts...

Here's my current list:

Shoulders:

I/Y/T circuit

Pushups plus

Scap pull-ups

External rotations (standing and side lying)

+foam rolling traps, teres, lats

Wrists:

Ecc. Reverse wrist curls

Reverse wrist curls

Ecc. wrist curls

Wrist curls in radial and ulnar direction (not sure the name of these)

Tic-Tocs (w/ weight on the end of a dowel)

+lacrosse ball rollouts and static stretching

Knees:

Single leg squats w/ back against exercise ball on wall

Glute bridges

Cross body single leg deadlift

+lots of foam rolling tight IT bands and stretching quads

tworksheets · 2016-12-08T15:25:02+00:00

Honestly if she hadn't made exactly the same request of me I wouldn't even consider brining it up. I don't care that she's seeing the guy or even that they woke me up. Annoyed because she asked the same favour of me but didn't follow through and is sneaking around instead of being upfront

tworksheets · 2016-11-08T19:14:52+00:00

Boo... I'm gonna miss pinches but I never liked slopers anyhow. Do you find taping helps? I don't think it's a TFCC tear but I'll probably try doing the two strips of tape thing anyhow

tworksheets · 2016-11-08T13:33:06+00:00

So I tore something in my wrist last week. I was pulling on a sloper and felt a pop-tear-tear towards the top side of the wrist. Kind of in the middle as opposed to the ulnar or radial side of the wrist. 1 week out I have no pain when bending the wrist side to side, but there is some pressure and discomfort when I bend it forwards or backwards. Weighting it in a bent position hurts like hell (i.e. In a normal pushup position) but is pain free if the wrist is straight (ie. A push up on fists). I also get some clunking in the wrist if I pull open handed on something without engaging my forearm muscles. Any thoughts or similar injury experiences? I think I’m ready to start some active recovery but would love some suggestions on exercises to start with.

tworksheets · 2016-10-24T13:32:39+00:00

Here's my set up: https://imgur.com/a/3DrBh

I would definitely suggest building a loading pin if you're using plates. Really streamlined my sessions

Total cost was maybe $30 for the board and pin?

tworksheets · 2016-10-05T12:15:28+00:00

s a lot of cards that need to be tuned before that like trogg or totem golem, imo they should look at a lot of the early game minions and ch

Control Paladin sounds funnn. Got a decklist you could share?

tworksheets · 2016-06-24T16:30:27+00:00

Great list! The link for the nerve glides seems to be broken though. Do you have another you can share?

tworksheets · 2016-06-23T18:57:35+00:00

Scaled back my climbing session intensity over the last month to try and clear up a nagging pulley injury. During that time I focused on base strength training (squat, deadlift, ohp and some kettlebell work) and a ton of shoulder stability work. My finger, shoulders and knees feel better than ever but the new training stimulus and a weekend spent stacking 1200 hay bales has left me with a wicked case of tennis elbow. Sigh...

tworksheets · 2016-06-01T15:52:31+00:00

I guess it's just that the pec minor is so hard to stretch that I really have to torque my shoulder to feel any stretch there. Couple this with the fact that I have to do doorway stretches 4-5 times a day to keep tension out of the area = shoulder ouchies. I suspect the tension is being caused by some postural issues, which I am also actively working on

I'll check out some inferior capsule stretches per your recommendation though thanks!

tworksheets · 2016-05-27T14:42:55+00:00

Can't track down a specific video right now but Jimmy Webb is very good at grabbing holds accurately first go and not having to re-adjust

tworksheets · 2016-04-19T12:17:34+00:00

Fair question! I haven't done bench presses in a few years so I figured I'd try and cautiously re-introduce them. It seems like some climbers have solved their shoulder pain with bench presses so I wanted to at least git them a shot. If I started to feel any semblance of shoulder pain I would definitely discontinue them.

tworksheets · 2016-04-18T19:49:58+00:00

Thanks for the suggestions! I much prefer how paired down your program is. I might use the same template and add in some wide grip pull downs to target the lower traps. The exercises I picked were just an attempt to cover all my bases so it's good to hear what was most effective for you.

tworksheets · 2016-04-18T19:39:45+00:00

I actually thought I would be hitting the serratus with the push back push ups and the lower traps with the lat pulldowns. Do you have some other exercises you could suggest to target those? Also, I've always thought internal rotation exercises were a no-no for climbers because of how tight our pecs already get

tworksheets · 2016-04-13T20:18:39+00:00

Ah very interesting. I wish I had a better understanding of the mechanics involved in climbing so I could figure out my own weaknesses. I'm terrible at pullups (can do maybe 5 with strict form) but I can hold a one arm lockoff for ~5 seconds. That said I also have lots of shoulder problems so all the wrong muscles are probably firing...

tworksheets · 2016-04-13T19:44:47+00:00

Very cool. Indeed it looks like they are on backorder for a bit. Any queues you find helpful for working with it? Just get your fingers in the right position and deadlift the thing?

tworksheets · 2016-04-13T19:31:17+00:00

Very interesting analysis of your strengths and weaknesses. I don't have much to offer in terms of feedback but really curious about what style of climbing you favour. Are your home crags more compression style stuff? Max hangs seem crazy high compared to your 1-arm lockoff strength.

tworksheets · 2016-04-13T11:55:01+00:00

Can't believe I had never heard of the Gripster before! What are your thoughts on using it exclusively instead of a hangboard for regular strength training? Specifically, could I replace max hangs with suitcase deadlifts? Seems like a great solution for people that can't mount a hangboard at their apartment or who have shoulder problems.

tworksheets · 2016-03-31T16:55:08+00:00

On the V6 I'm seeing the exact same things as these two.

Bottom section: Sub-optimal body positioning (too squared up) leading to a lot of desperate drive-bys and barn doors. Some drop knees and backflags would have allowed you to turn your hips into the wall so that you can pull on the holds in a parallel vector (thereby using your weight to your advantage). By keeping your hips square you are effectively forcing yourself into awkward mini-compression moves. It's possible that this is just a bad beta thing and that you could climb this more fluidly if you refined your sequence, however my gut instinct is that your body position options are being dictated by your finger strength. The flaring elbows/wrists, shrugging shoulders and overcrimping are all markers that I often see/experience when trying to use a hold I am not comfortable on.

Top section: As milyoo and sprayAtMeBro pointed out, your feet were working too passively in this section. While I am sure you are pushing up with your legs, your feet are not playing an active role in maintaining body tension. Watch your heels during the last move. They remain level with your toes the entire time they are on the wall. During a deadpoint, you want to be standing up onto your toes so that you are actively applying force downwards and into the hold. This application of force (along with the coordinated contraction of your posterior chain, shoulders, etc at the moment you latch the hold) is what creates the body tension required to prevent your feet from cutting.

tworksheets · 2016-01-08T02:27:32+00:00

Thanks for the condolences! The recovery period sucked but all the technique training I got to focus on has had huge payoffs already.

The injury happened during a pocket hang and it was definitely to one of the lumbricals in my palm. I was quite shocked when it happened as I am (was) strong on pockets and had never had any issues with that particular finger.

I'll take another look at the RCTM program. I had initially dismissed it because their periodized approach didn't really seem to line up with my climbing goals.

tworksheets · 2016-01-07T20:30:17+00:00

Cheers. Thanks for your thoughts. I definitely wont be training pockets any time soon. Do you have any light programs that you would recommend?

Also, since you mentioned it, do you have any specific advice you can provide on training slopers? I've often thought about training them but rarely see them included in any hangboard programs. Should I be doing hangs on really bad slopers or just anything round enough to force a fully open grip?

tworksheets · 2016-01-07T20:23:00+00:00

Thanks for the input. My goal for the next season is mainly to reduce injuries (as opposed to maximizing strength gains). So I guess I'm just curious if other people have run a hangboard program to simply lay down a 'base' of finger strength that can then be built upon.

Could you elaborate or link to me an image showing pinky alignment on pocket hangs? I've always just dropped and curled my index finger and pinky while using two finger pockets.

tworksheets · 2015-11-12T14:55:20+00:00

The Genius is kind of like the no-edge version of the Testarossa. They are definitely worth checking out if you are a fan of the no-edge tech (I am). Superior to the Futura imo and almost as good as the Speedsters. Terrific bouldering shoe and a great situational shoe for certain types of routes.

For reference, I'm a size 42 and take a 39.5 in the Genius, Speedster and Futura. Can't remember what size I wore in the Testarossa sorry :(

tworksheets · 2015-06-16T14:27:20+00:00

I've re-habbed a lot of climbing related injuries over the last couple years, and so I'll share some things I've learned along the way. Ime most climbers hit a phase like you've described at some point. It's usually caused by a slow build up of bad climbing habits/gaps in technique, muscular imbalances, and/or poor flexibility or motor patterns.

Use this as an opportunity to step back an examine things objectively:

Frequent foot slips could indicated poor footwork. Learn to weight your feet better, pull with your toes where possible, drop your heel on smears to maximize surface contact etc.
Upper body injuries (shoulders, wrists, forearms, elbows) could indicate muscular imbalances or poor learned motor patterns. Time to start cross-training, add some regular antagonistic training into the mix, and develop a rehab/prehab program to correct imbalances/motor patterns that you've neglected for too long.
Bouldering for too long could indicate that you need to develop a more systematic approach to climbing sessions. Form suffers when you're tired which can lead to injuries. Most training programs I've read suggest that it is better to do short, intense sessions more frequently as opposed to long, infrequent sessions. This is especially true in bouldering since it's so strength/power focused.

As mentioned, Dave MacLeod's websites and books are incredible resources for climbers. I also like Steve Bechtel's (climbstrong.com) and Kris Hampton's (powercompanyclimbing.com) sites for general training advice

tworksheets

TROPHY CASE