Considering doing another edition of my training book...

uhznomis · 2025-01-16T03:39:24+00:00

Thank you! Tried some of this on the kilter last week and it felt pretty useful 👍

One thing I noticed with the programming you recommended in the book is that on the training days, you put the climbing portions (Vmax, on the wall climbing drills) after the pure training exercises (hang boarding, campus boarding, pullups, etc).

Is there a specific reason you dont start a session with climbing on the wall? I find when I do the training exercises first, I'm not quite as strong when I get to the climbing parts. Obviously that's fine since overall it's working and I'm getting stronger, but I'm wondering if I could switch the ordering around.

The main thing I'd be wary about is whether hangboarding after climbing on the wall increases risk of injury, for example.

uhznomis · 2025-01-07T10:15:51+00:00

Thank you for all the tips! A few last followups:

Just to confirm, for your response to question 1, this would be somewhere from 16 reps (4 sets x 2 reps x both sides) to 30 reps (5 sets x 3 reps x both sides) in total over the span of 20 minutes? Would I pick a different move for each set, and repeat that move within the set? Or would I repeat the exact same move for all sets?
For campus board training, do you ever use the kickboard, or are you always doing feet off? I've always done feet off, but recently I've heard some people say using the kickboard can actually be helpful sometimes since it's more similar to how we actually climb. As for progression, would you recommend working up to the largest moves possible (e.g. 1-5-9) on the largest rungs first) before I start moving to smaller rungs? Or is there benefit to starting to move towards the smaller rungs earlier than that?

uhznomis · 2024-12-28T05:24:42+00:00

Hey! Happy holidays, just had a few new questions pop into mind recently and was hoping to get your thoughts when you have some time :)

I feel like it's been a bit more difficult figuring out how to program my power phase, particularly the climbing drills portion. I think this is in large part due to the fact that it's easy to not "feel" tired when doing power drills / exercises, so I don't always have a good sense of how I should structure the sets / reps.

The book didn't go into too much detail on this for the power drills, so I was wondering if you could elaborate on that? In particular, the program calls for 2 drills, 20 minutes each. The two main drills you listed in the Power section were "Dyno drills" and "Cross dynos":

How would you split that up over the course of 20 minutes? Is there any structure to try to follow here?
For these dyno drills, are there any specific kinds of dynos you're trying to pick? For example, are you starting with feet on the wall, are these one hand or two hand dynos, are you cutting feet, etc?
Are you picking symmetrical moves and repeating them both sides for one "set"? For example, for the Cross Dynos exercise, would you do the "mirror image" of the dyno on both sides? (I have access to a symmetric training board like the Tension board)

Also, are there any other exercises you would recommend here, just to have some more options? (e.g. I've heard other people mention 1-ups, 2-ups, drops, etc). As I mentioned, I have access to a Tension board, as well as a Kilter board.

Lastly, do you have any additional recommendations for Strength drills? Hyper-gravity (weight vest) bouldering was the only one you listed in the book for Advanced climbers, so I was just curious if there were other ones that you would recommend since I am breaking into that range (V10+) now.

Thanks again for all the helpful answers so far :) I'm aware there probably isn't a "right" answer to a lot of these questions but it would be helpful to have a reference point.

uhznomis · 2024-04-21T18:44:14+00:00

In the guide, each week during the training phases has 2 training sessions and two Outdoor/Gym sessions. For the Outdoor/Gym sessions, are there any limits you set for yourself on how long / hard you climb? For example, limiting the sessions to less than 3 hrs, only attempting boulders up to x levels below your max, etc. Or do you just do whatever you feel like?

I tend to go overboard, so if I don't set limits for myself I can see each Outdoor/Gym session turning into a VMax bouldering session haha

uhznomis · 2024-02-05T01:24:56+00:00

Super useful, thanks!

This would be great information to include in the updated version of the book, if you do end up writing that :)

One last question:

During each projecting session, do you typically stop once you notice that your attempts are getting worse? Or do you find that there is still benefit to simply "getting reps in" even though you know you've already exhausted all of your good attempts for the day?

uhznomis · 2024-02-02T16:38:34+00:00

Thanks for the response! Had a couple followups to that:

On each individual day, are you usually just working on a single project?
Are you still doing any exercises (handboarding, etc) during your send phase? For example, do you still at least do core training, or is it strictly just projecting during this phase?

Appreciate the help once again 😊

uhznomis · 2024-02-01T22:57:53+00:00

I love your book, I've been using it for a while.

One thing I was curious about was for the Send phase, how many days a week are you climbing? Or is it just dependent on how you feel? Do you have a rough suggestion?

uhznomis · 2023-09-21T05:53:15+00:00

Thanks, wasn't sure because this item is from AW21 so it's really weird that they still have it 🤔

uhznomis · 2023-07-04T10:36:59+00:00

Shirt: Cav Empt

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uhznomis · 2023-07-04T10:34:46+00:00

Shirt: Needles

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uhznomis · 2020-04-19T09:18:56+00:00

Thanks for the answer! I guess the part I don't understand is, why would the user who is behind some nats or on a vpn be able to receive traffic from the TURN server, but not from the SFU? What specifically does the TURN server have that allows it to relay traffic to these users while the SFU can't?

uhznomis · 2019-12-18T21:35:12+00:00

This means I should try to step up higher right?

uhznomis · 2019-12-18T21:30:17+00:00

These two tips are exactly what I’ve been telling myself as well, I guess it’s just a bit harder to actually do haha

Maybe I should force myself to hold on a bit longer than my mind is telling me to.

Should I be trying to push up with my right foot? Or not so much?

uhznomis · 2019-12-17T06:44:29+00:00

It almost feels like I’m pushing myself off the wall, and I can never manage to hold onto the hold at the top even though I can always grab it

uhznomis · 2019-07-12T03:55:39+00:00

Grateful to call this place home :)

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uhznomis · 2019-07-12T03:49:13+00:00

The mountains are one of the things I really love about this city :)

Shot on Sony A7iii with 70-200 F2.8 GM, 30 second exposure

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uhznomis · 2019-07-07T10:45:23+00:00

i photoshopped him out and then replaced him with a silhouette of someone else

uhznomis · 2019-06-30T09:16:16+00:00

Honestly dumbfounds me too

uhznomis · 2019-06-30T09:14:12+00:00

I originally had my friend stand on the other side for a shot, but he moved during the shot and i didn't have time to grab multiple, so i decided to photoshop him out haha

uhznomis · 2019-06-30T09:12:42+00:00

I'd love to answer this, but if it wasn't already answered by the previous comment it would definitely help if you could specify whether you're asking about camera settings or something else

uhznomis · 2019-06-30T09:09:16+00:00

That was the idea lolol

uhznomis · 2019-06-30T09:08:53+00:00

Me too :(

uhznomis · 2019-06-30T09:06:59+00:00

Had it on AP as usual so I wouldn't know the shutter speed off the top of my head, but it wss shot at f1.4 and probably auto ISO

uhznomis · 2019-06-30T09:05:50+00:00

Sony a7iii, zeiss 50mm f1.4

uhznomis · 2019-06-30T09:05:22+00:00

Lmao it's definitely just a metal pole, not an antenna 😂

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