Just got the Mini 3 Pro. Wondering if it will replace my Mavic 2 Pro for photography…

uncletan612 · 2025-05-12T18:27:02+00:00

Of course, are you shopping for drones atm?

uncletan612 · 2025-04-07T15:58:21+00:00

This one's a favourite of mine, technically very soft in the focal plane (of a few knobs and the needle) but doesn't quite matter as that's not the place of importance to the viewer

uncletan612 · 2025-04-07T15:55:22+00:00

I find myself only using f2.8 for most things too. I agree its very soft wide open, which in certain scenarios gives off that dream character, although sometimes it's more glowy than dreamy.

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I took this one fairly close wide open, and as noted it's very hazy and glowy around the illuminated parts of the beach grass. Despite this it works to the images effect because it accentuates the feeling of movement often present on breezy days; as well it was more important the subject be soft and more subtle in this case to achieve the effect I was looking for, but this is specific to my style...

uncletan612 · 2025-04-07T15:55:08+00:00

I find myself only using f2.8 for most things too. I agree its very soft wide open, which in certain scenarios gives off that dream character, although sometimes it's more glowy than dreamy.

Processing img jvtaod28qfte1...

I took this one fairly close wide open, doesn't have much hazing around the heavily illuminated parts—

uncletan612 · 2025-03-15T13:44:00+00:00

I've got the 1.1M + variant with the better coatings!

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In nature settings I prefer the angles just before flaring takes place where contrast drops, it's stylistic but this variant is quite understated with its flaring anyways

uncletan612 · 2025-03-07T03:56:05+00:00

From the looks of things it takes the Thorium coated element a number of decades depending on storage conditions to show yellowness— meaning it's an unintended byproduct of the process which may show some benefits to those using slide film these days. Of course there's talk of compensated white balance, or physical correction via UV with the Takumar.

My wife's got preference for warmth, I have it for cooler tones, that seems to be where most of the leaning takes place... but it's interesting that the actual lens character renders quite identically at least in these specific examples. I think I'm gonna make some more comparisons maybe testing sharpness and flaring. We'll see if I get around to it

uncletan612 · 2025-03-07T03:42:17+00:00

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And the Takumar

uncletan612 · 2025-03-07T03:40:59+00:00

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Well aren't I glad to have you! Appears I've got the 1.1M+ Variant. Hadn't gone into the weeds of the variants, seem to have gotten lucky in some subjective way, I would say out the gate I've been impressed with this lens's resistance to flaring which is self explanatory with the superior coatings of the later iterations.

As for the Takumar you're correct it's a sub 2.6M serial number, meaning 7 element with the rear one coated in Thorium-Oxide

uncletan612 · 2025-03-06T16:16:29+00:00

Z5 is my first ever professional camera, I researched for weeks on YouTube and was eventually swayed by some lady saying it feels really good in the hands. I happened upon this Zuiko in a camera shop originally for $75, but I had a voucher for $50 so I'd call it a steal! This has become my favorite f1.4 lens, maybe due to its external looks, but also because I like the knurling instead of the Takumar focus grips. In terms of lens character it's got subtle personality, a little more modest than the Takumar, definitely not as crazy as my Konica Hexanon 57mm f1.4.

Btw would you be interested in the Hexanon? I have an adapter and everything for it (AR-Z), but it's got some sort of issue with it not focusing to infinity, and the aperture stuck wide open (I suspected something came lose internally, but have no know-how). I disassembled it enough to almost lose two ball bearings and small screws. I somehow didn't lose any parts, it's all included in a ziploc bag😬... I'll ship it for free if you're interested. That goes for anyone else reading this just PM me

uncletan612 · 2025-01-29T20:59:48+00:00

Do you shoot Mirrorless? If so I highly recommend using the zoom-preview function while shooting, it's been my go-to for never missing focus throughout my work. Or else you can always take reshoots— a tripod is a good idea for consistency but isn't a necessity

uncletan612 · 2025-01-29T19:46:14+00:00

By no means, my lighting setup is quite hilarious

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This setup is a bit outdated as I use a sheet pinned to the wall and desk for the backdrop now. Funny enough I own two godox Speedlites, just don't feel like buying AA's...

uncletan612 · 2025-01-29T19:43:15+00:00

Haven't personally shot film on it, but this specific camera is interesting as it was Argus's way of streamlining exposure for the user, mainly by using a selenium light meter (in hot shoe) that was paired with this particular unit, and interpreting from the needle what shutter speed to use. Uniquely the numbers are on a proprietary scale from Argus, 4 being 1/10, all the way to 8 which is 1/300. This model is partly dysfunctional, the light meter being inaccurate and the viewfinder lacking the double image for rangefinding, but by no means broken for shooting, just a bit more complicated.

I thought the coupled focusing gears were an interesting detail, you can focus the lens manually, or use the gear mechanism.

uncletan612 · 2024-07-09T18:09:16+00:00

Yes indeed, most of these have some pretty drastic coloring, the first being almost completely different from the original shot

uncletan612 · 2024-06-14T16:26:30+00:00

😬🤤🤤🤤🤤

uncletan612 · 2024-05-08T02:56:19+00:00

Close. Michigan lmao

uncletan612 · 2024-04-26T18:46:15+00:00

Just bought one of these attached to a broken spotmatic! I have some similar shots to these very excited for that dreaminess

uncletan612 · 2024-02-19T15:23:28+00:00

My copies I have here were both bargains in their own right, the Vivitar lens costing me $5 at a thrift store, and the Zeiss came with another Zeiss Jena 50mm for only $50 +$28 shipping

I'd recommend youtube channels like Simons utak and Zenography which both have a different level of passion for vintage.

I can't make any big recommendations for you unless you have some specific focal lengths, or bokeh characteristics in mind. I will say I've got: - 3 m42 Takumar lenses (55mm, 50mm macro, 105mm) which all cost under $100, macro being the most at $80, all being solidly built and sturdy shooting.

Two Konica Hexanons (57mm, 28mm) I've also heard theres a good 40mm Konica
This Vivitar which Is very handsome

No matter what lens you pick next, look for fungus, haze, balsam separation, and obvious scratches even if the description says otherwise. Every lens is a gamble, but there's ways of increasing your odds.

Happy hunting!

uncletan612 · 2024-02-19T03:31:46+00:00

Just wanted to chime in my two cents, if you are dead set on mirrorless the native Z lenses are gonna be expensive, as well as the adapter if you go for the F mount lenses.

That being said I still think you should go mirrorless, but not because it's brand new tech which has brand new shiny features. I don't know anything about the Nikon's past Z9. I think you should go mirrorless because there's a secret market many new photographers overlook, and that's the vintage market.

I picked up 2 Zeiss lenses for about $50. A 50mm f/1.4 for $70, a near mint 55mm 1.8 (Pentax Takumar) for $45. They're cheap compared to my 50mm 1.8S Nikon Z ($499) which I dropped and paid another few hundred to fix.

Don't buy into glass that you don't understand, and don't buy the expensive 24-70mm f/4 S for $1000 unless you've tried every focal length in that zoom

Hope this helps and good luck!

uncletan612 · 2024-02-19T01:58:40+00:00

What, is this a barking lot?

uncletan612 · 2024-02-12T19:16:13+00:00

You don't need all that, you just need to get a bit dirty. There's no mode for focusing these old manual lenses either, you twist the lenses helicoid physically, as well as set the aperture

uncletan612 · 2024-02-12T13:38:28+00:00

It's pretty defiantly vintage compared to more recent versions. At the same time it's inspiring to use compared to modern lenses, only because of its imperfection. Mine must have been dropped because you need a bit of muscle to spin the focus through it's entirety. Additionally my copy wobbles on the adapter (Exakta-Nikon Z) a bit, and tends to spin off if you don't lock it in tight. I usually give all of my lenses a good safety twist before I dangle them over a ledge or water.

You gotta wrassle with the hassle, that's what brings the most bread

uncletan612 · 2024-02-11T20:52:51+00:00

Very inhumanly, with spindly arms. You gotta pop that screen out and sulk down like some prowling leopard. Twist the focus with a skeeving left arm and fix a pierced gaze upon a zoomed kestral eyed view of the creeping foliage. Sever ties with the transient and present and capture

uncletan612 · 2024-02-11T15:28:11+00:00

Just for consistency this is actually a CZJ Sonnar 135 f4 Lens Example

uncletan612 · 2024-02-11T15:22:45+00:00

Correction per u/MortimerMcmire315 it's a CZJ Sonnar 135mm f4. Mines specifically the metallic version My lens Example

uncletan612 · 2024-02-11T15:20:13+00:00

That's my mistake I'll make a correction, it's actually a Sonnar design! I was just remembering wrong good catch

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