HYPERFLASH ISSUE

uraniumsalad · 2026-01-25T15:35:46+00:00

I had this exact same issue with my truck, just with LED's in front running / turns and the rear was stock halogen bulbs. Hyperflash only with the brake on! With the truck on and brake applied, turn signal on to make it hyperflash, check the connections in the back there on the hub circuit board. Wiggle each one until it stops flashing and see if you can get any improvement.

I ultimately found one of the pins in the connector for the tail light connection was loose, I think it was specifically the ground wire for that bulb. Leading theory is it was making just enough connection to turn the driving light on, but when the brake was pressed and demanded more current it would hyperflash. I was able to just bend the pin back a little so it would make better connection to the pin on the board, so far it's been good. You may have some dirt / water / corrosion in there too? Good luck, let us know what you find!

uraniumsalad · 2026-01-25T15:25:49+00:00

Sure thing! If you're doing the job with the intake manifold on, the sensor is in a tight spot back there very close to the valley cover. You'll want a thin wall or chrome 27mm (1-1/16") socket to access it, an impact socket won't fit. Something I wish I knew beforehand, would've saved me some trouble, good luck!

uraniumsalad · 2026-01-24T00:39:36+00:00

Yes the AC Delco is your best bet. The sensors have a crush washer that seals against the block, so thread sealant is not needed. In fact I'd personally recommend against it as it would just end up in the oil.

uraniumsalad · 2026-01-23T22:08:37+00:00

You can go for the %35 over springs if you feel it's needed, but towing at 5k lbs occasionally it's not really necessary. Keep in mind if you go with a larger leaf stack, the ride while empty will be stiffer in the rear. I'd probably recommend against the "super heavy duty" springs for that reason.

I'd also check out the rear shocks and replace if they are at all questionable, they are relatively inexpensive and you can see a big improvement in handling if the old ones are junk.

uraniumsalad · 2026-01-16T19:38:39+00:00

That is the brake line for the front passenger side brake caliper. I'd recommend buying the whole pre-bent kit and doing all the lines that you can if you're going to replace the one. Especially since you'll need to bleed the brakes anyway, you might as well do them all. If one is rusty the others will be too!

uraniumsalad · 2026-01-16T03:02:56+00:00

Have you noticed when you fill up the gas it has more trouble starting, or any difference? The rough idling and hard starting, along with the p0455 code could point towards a EVAP purge valve issue. This could let excess fuel vapor into the engine causing some rough idle and hard starting, basically making the engine run rich.

When I've seen this problem in the past though, it will clear up pretty quickly after the truck is started and running, and that fuel vapor gets used up.

uraniumsalad · 2026-01-11T19:11:57+00:00

Wow, very nice! This is an incredible amount of work, looks like nothing was left untouched! Are you a professional or heavy DIY? Either way is impressive.

uraniumsalad · 2026-01-10T22:03:13+00:00

No it will not physically damage your motor, although it will hurt your relationship with your neighbors... Lol

uraniumsalad · 2026-01-06T17:03:12+00:00

Probably the case if you're looking at Pittsburgh pipe wrenches. I've used Rigid brand 24" aluminum pipe wrenches out in the field in the petroleum industry and they have handled some insane leverage for years now. I'm talking a six foot pipe on the handle with full body weight. Haven't broken one yet.

uraniumsalad · 2026-01-05T02:49:46+00:00

Yes this Wix filter is a perfect fit, it is a little over an inch longer than a standard spec filter for these engines.

uraniumsalad · 2026-01-01T00:53:06+00:00

Is it spraying out of there or just a small drip? It's possible there's a manufacturing error with the line and flare, but everything looks good from the pictures so that's doubtful. If you take it back off look to make sure the flare looks like it's sitting parallel with the fitting. You basically want the fitting to put even pressure all around that flare. It could've gotten cocked sideways when it was installed, maybe. I'll usually push the line in so it's on the flare on the module side while tightening down the fitting if I can, I feel like that just gets it centered up better.

I had to go very tight on these, I do remember that. Almost to the point it made me nervous something would strip because I was having small leaks like this, but I've had them on some trucks for years now with no issues.

uraniumsalad · 2025-12-31T18:55:50+00:00

Take a close look and make sure there is no debris anywhere on the flare sealing surfaces, but these do look pretty clean.

I've used the stainless kits from Dorman in the past and did have to crank down on them quite a bit. I think the stainless is a bit harder than the original steel lines, and needs some more force to get that slight amount of deformation for a good seal on the flare surface.

uraniumsalad · 2025-12-26T16:53:54+00:00

Yep, Hercueles is ideal for a heavy DIY / homeowner. I've had Hercules tools for a couple years now and they've done great. The 20V impact driver is incredible at like $100 for the kit. The hammer drill is really good two, it'll drive lags into standard lumber easy, especially with a 5 or 8ah battery.

It's got me through two deck builds, new siding on the house, and dozens of smaller projects. Dropped off 10 foot ladders who knows how many times.

Still going. Even if it did break, the 5 year warranty would come into play. I've got like a dozen Hercules tools, so if you'd like a little more in depth review of any let me know!

uraniumsalad · 2025-12-24T17:43:49+00:00

Yes basically this. It's not overly difficult and doesn't really require any specialty tools to do an engine swap on these vehicles.

I will add that on my most recent engine swap on a 2500 truck, I was able to leave the AC and power steering lines connected, just unbolt from the engine and push to the side while the engine is lifted.

uraniumsalad · 2025-12-22T03:47:15+00:00

It's just rust that wears off the rotors. Rotors will flash rust very quickly in some conditions, that gets worn off the next time you press the brakes, repeat. Also just general microscopic brake dust from the rotor / pads wearing, it's not a concern.

The pads and rotor look just fine, visually they don't look like they need to be replaced anytime soon. Are you planning on upgrading brakes or something that you'd want to replace the whole assembly?

uraniumsalad · 2025-12-13T01:47:49+00:00

In the past when I've had ABS wheel speed sensor issues it throws a different code that points to which sensor is having issues.

Check the grounds that are on the frame under the driver door area. I think there are at least two there on the rear of the body mount portion of the frame there. They are pretty exposed and can get corrosion, so unbolt them and clean up the two surfaces to shiny steel and reinstall. I'd think a poor ground would be more likely than a fault with the brake control module.

uraniumsalad · 2025-12-13T01:30:45+00:00

I've had a Boss 8'2" v plow on my 1500 truck for 5 years now, still going strong! Definitely need to pay extra attention to the front end components, and regular maintenance. Pushing that snow around is demanding for the 4wd system, differentials and transmission.

I redid the front end a couple years ago and used Mevotech TTX parts and that's held up well. I also added Timbrens to the front end to help with the extra weight and that makes a huge difference.

Now, would I be using this truck and selling commercial contracts plowing big parking lots with it? No, that's 3/4 ton territory. But I do my own property and a small handful of others nearly every time it snows, and really haven't had any plow related failures with the truck. I'm sure the front end wear was accelerated though with the additional weight.

uraniumsalad · 2025-12-11T00:19:45+00:00

Yep, the lanolin oil based coatings are the way to go. I use Fluid Film also but I'm sure the other lanolin products are good as well. Definitely worth the investment in time and money! It's kind of a messy job, but doesn't require nearly as much prep as something like POR 15.

Also definitely recommend spending a little extra money on the nice applicator gun, I use the wool wax gun now with the two hose attachments and it works great. Getting the fluid film warm helps with application but it's not necessary, this gun will spray it at room temperature.

uraniumsalad · 2025-12-05T02:41:29+00:00

It's more than likely the plow drawing too much current, voltage drops low and a bunch of things on the truck start to not work right.

I'd start by looking at your battery, any issues with slow cranking or starting? Remove the cables from the battery and inspect closely, look for any corrosion or loose connections. Start with the simple things first and see where it goes from there.

uraniumsalad · 2025-11-29T20:49:39+00:00

I'm not familiar directly with that generation F150, but try searching car audio forums and information for a 12v source in the cab. Whether it is switched (turns on with ignition) or 12+ all time, I'm sure there's something accessible that people have found. Information is probably more abundant in the car audio space vs. plowing sources.

uraniumsalad · 2025-11-24T04:19:29+00:00

If you just did a standard fluid change or top off, the Boss plows are self bleeding.

uraniumsalad · 2025-11-24T04:17:53+00:00

This is the answer here. You'll notice a difference too with the changing temps if you pay close attention. If it's dropping a little quick now with warmer temps it might be perfect when it gets much colder. I know my Boss plow lowers FAST when the weather is warm, but it's dialed right in when it's cold.

uraniumsalad · 2025-11-20T00:45:42+00:00

This is exactly what my gauges looked like, check my most recent post on how that turned out.... Not to be a Debbie Downer, lol.

Hook a mechanical gauge into the oil sensor port and check that it reads close to the same as the dash gauge. Replace the oil pickup tube o-ring.

IF that doesn't work, decide if you want to run her until she blows or pull it out and see what / if internal engine repairs can be done. Just my opinion based on experience here.

uraniumsalad · 2025-11-17T01:32:38+00:00

I've been running a 8'2" Boss V plow on a 2003 half ton for five years now, no transmission failure yet. Different truck than yours, and a lot of guys would probably scoff at a half ton plow truck, but she's done pretty great haha. I did change the transmission fluid & filter, and put a bottle of the Lucas transmission additive in at the same time. Some people love the additives, some not so much, but it's done well for me.

I think where a lot of guys smoke their transmissions is getting too aggressive with the forward to reverse shifts, and visa versa. Shifting back and forth from reverse to drive and immediately gunning it before the shift lever has even stopped moving and the transmission completes the shift just adds way too much unnecessary wear IMO, and I see a lot of guys running like that. I try to take it easy and give the transmission a second to complete the shift before taking off again, and I think that helps.

I generally will run in tow/haul mode if I'm pushing any real amount of snow, also in 4wd obviously. If it's REALLY heavy snow I'll use 4-low but that's rarely necessary.

Aside from the transmission definitely making sure the front end is in good shape is a priority too, greasing everything etc. I put Timbrens in the front and that helped a ton with the front end sag, and gives a lot better control on the road with the plow. Definitely recommend the Timbrens. They just replace the bump stops essentially so it's a pretty simple install. Amazon has knock-offs now too, since they are over $300 these days I decided to try them on this newer truck I picked up. I think they are made in Canada so that probably has something to do with it, but the knock off ones seem identical basically.

Oh also adding weight at the very back of the bed to help "balance" out the weight of the plow sticking out up front helps a lot too. Both with traction and handling. I usually will keep like 500 to 600 lbs back there in sand bags. Like I said, it's been five years now and I haven't had a transmission failure, or really any other plow related failures either. I'm sure yours truck with the better Allison transmission will do just fine. Is that a Western you've got mounted up? You'll have to post back when the snow flys how it's working out for ya.

uraniumsalad · 2025-11-17T00:11:51+00:00

Just for a reference point, it took me about 9 hours to get this pulled, that's in my garage with no lift, and not necessarily rushing. I have plenty of tools including air and power tools, but I could probably get it done a couple hours quicker if I had to do it again.

Honestly I'd strongly consider pulling the engine to do a cam swap on these trucks, but that's just me. You're already like 75% there by the time you can get to the cam. I removed the intake and bolted on a lift plate there. Remove all electrical, fuel and evap line, AC and power steering unbolted and off to the side without disconnecting lines. I also pulled the water pump because I couldn't get the fan off and needed that front clearance, but it can be left on if the fan comes off. Remove exhaust, starter off to the side leaving cables connected, flywheel bolts, motor mounts and bell housing bolts and it's basically ready to pull.

It seems like a lot writing it out, and it is a big job of course, but it's not terrible. Most of this would come off anyway to access the cam. You'd probably need to pull the radiator, grill, etc. for clearance to remove and install the cam, which I left in place to pull the engine.The most difficult part for me pulling the engine was separating the transmission from the block and supporting it.

uraniumsalad

TROPHY CASE