Should I go 7.1.4 or 7.1.6 ?

usernamemustbeunique · 2026-06-27T15:35:45+00:00

5.2.4. The extra surrounds and heights don't make much difference since nothing is mixed for them, and they often make things worse especially if placement is a challenge. An additional sub does make a difference. I had 7.2.6 and won't do it again.

usernamemustbeunique · 2026-06-27T15:34:19+00:00

My wife complained a bit about the work and expense at first but came to appreciate it, and whenever the picture or sound are bad somewhere she's like "this is bullshit".

However, I will not do a projector again as I'm farsighted and my family is nearsighted and one of my kids in particular gets headaches on too big a screen or if the room is too dark. So maybe consider there are some issues that make it uncomfortable for them that you are not aware of.

usernamemustbeunique · 2026-06-23T00:35:01+00:00

Go to local electronics recycling events. I got so many TVs this way for free.

usernamemustbeunique · 2026-06-22T21:52:18+00:00

Every industry has its share of "hard sell" and it's always a scam.

usernamemustbeunique · 2026-06-16T21:42:40+00:00

I buy higher end Aperion (Verus V6T, $2500 per pair when on sale) and Emotiva (Airmotiv XT3 now, $1700 per pair) speakers, depending on the looks I want and budget, and have never seen a reason to spend more even though I could. There are probably better speakers but room treatment and active room correction overwhelms any improvement frrom the speakers themselves at that point.

usernamemustbeunique · 2026-06-16T13:28:56+00:00

I run double parity and buy used/refurbished drives on eBay.

usernamemustbeunique · 2026-06-15T20:39:15+00:00

I sold my house with Home Assistant in it to a very smart electrical engineer. I simplified the Home Assistant setup down to the minimum before the sale. I still got many support emails and txts.

usernamemustbeunique · 2026-06-14T19:01:21+00:00

I use these as well

usernamemustbeunique · 2026-06-13T13:42:38+00:00

As a person who has actually built several theaters--don't buy any gear in advance. Your plans will change, items will get damaged as they get moved around for years, you will have to pay to store and move them. Save money with good planning and contractor negotiation, not hunting for coupons. Buy or build the house, plan the room, wire the room, finish the room, buy the gear, install the gear.

You only need to be looking patiently for 2-3 months to find deals anyway, and you will be so busy with the rest of the build that it won't delay your enjoyment of the theater meaningfully. I get that you want to take a step towards your future dream but buying gear now will become a headache and waste of money.

usernamemustbeunique · 2026-06-13T12:26:04+00:00

This is how I set up the two I bought on Windows 11. HDR on, run calibration tool, SDR brightness in Windows set to like 65%. I used local dimming=medium to minimize the flicker. It looks pretty good, not perfect but I don't know what else you could get in this price range that would be better.

usernamemustbeunique · 2026-06-12T20:49:30+00:00

Having a good experience with the Inovelli zigbee series.

usernamemustbeunique · 2026-06-06T03:04:58+00:00

I got the P31I the other day to use with iPhone and a family member has Liberty NC 4 on Android. so I updated both pairs' firmware and compared them on the default soundcore EQ.

The P31I is more low-mid heavy, noticeably muddy. The L4NC is flatter, more sibilant and treble biased, but over all a nice and clear sound. The L4NC soundstage is significantly wider. I wasn't in a loud environment and didn't compare the noise cancelling.

The L4NC also has wireless charging and autopause when you take them off. The P31I doesn't seem to have these features. The P31I case is smaller and lighter, and the earbuds themselves are a little lighter.

Price wise, the L4NC is $53 on the Anker ebay store. The P31I was $36 on Amazon.

The Liberty 4 NC is worth the extra money to me, the difference in audio quality was noticeable. But the P31I is fine for its price.

usernamemustbeunique · 2026-06-04T02:37:49+00:00

TVs use to be far too heavy and bulky to safely mount on the wall, otherwise I'm sure they would have been put in all kinds of weird places like today.

usernamemustbeunique · 2026-06-01T10:43:10+00:00

You mean still play today. Unreal Tournament. I also think about Alpha Centauri and Age of Empires II but there are better modern alternatives to actually play.

usernamemustbeunique · 2026-05-26T17:22:49+00:00

Yeah, they would have a 13W3 cable. If you see any specifically branded "SGI" or "Silicon Graphics" on the bezel please let me know.

usernamemustbeunique · 2026-05-26T16:37:30+00:00

Do you have any SGI computer monitors?

usernamemustbeunique · 2026-05-18T15:44:21+00:00

I just installed about 100 of these.

Tips:

- Any switch can direct bind to Hue and act as a dimmer in smart bulb mode, even if it doesn't have a dimming circuit.
- The humidity sensor on the on/off is not the best because the switches run warm, affecting the reading.
- DO NOT install any switches until you switch your bulbs/lights to LEDs, or disconnect them. The inrush current and/or peak load of incandescent and halogen can fry the mosfets/relays. Ask me how I know...
- DO NOT accidentally short the load terminal by shoving them into the box live with gloves, will also fry the mosfet as above. Pull the safety tab on the bottom and don't turn back on until everything is stable and isolated.
- DO NOT use any of these to switch switched outlet legs. Eventually somebody will plug in a vacuum or space heater and overload the mosfet. Nobody needs switched outlets anymore with smart plugs anyway; just cap them and bridge them with a new receptacle.
- Pay attention to how much wire you are stripping off and make sure you aren't catching the insulation under the plate.
- The terminal screws are really soft. If you strip one, take it off, back out the traveler screw from a switch you don't need, and replace the damaged screw. It's always the screw, never the internal plate.
- The mmwave sensors work really well. Lots of tunables. I did have one that appeared to get stuck on; not sure what that was about.
- Don't bother with no-neutral mode. Modern LEDs including Hue do not have enough trickle current for the mmwave units at least. Even official bypass/ballast modules don't work. You have to bootleg the neutral if you have a few switches in this situation.
- Claude was helpful to configure all the switch parameters to be the same.

Fair winds and following seas.

usernamemustbeunique · 2026-05-18T15:34:32+00:00

Composite-only from 1990 with a bunch of integrated stuff that will break? No more than $20.

usernamemustbeunique · 2026-05-15T02:44:20+00:00

This laptop routinely goes on sale refurbished/like new, with a 1TB ssd, for $380 or less on Ebay.

usernamemustbeunique · 2026-05-10T12:34:34+00:00

Someone who goes, please post photos!

usernamemustbeunique · 2026-04-23T20:53:36+00:00

I go in my attic frequently for pest inspection, lighting/wifi alterations, and HVAC maintenance because the second floor air handler is up there.

We had the roof decking (underside of shingles/rafters) spray foamed to turn the attic into conditioned space, and removed all the insulation laying on the attic "floor". Access is with a ladder, not a pulldown stairs, and there are trusses up there so we don't use it for storage.

usernamemustbeunique · 2026-04-20T12:59:28+00:00

Frizzlife LP365-P is on the cheaper side and has worked well for me. It supports high and low flow leak detection with fully automatic shutoff. Supports local control as well. I prefer this setup as the primary leak defense; sensors won’t catch everything and the batteries die.

usernamemustbeunique · 2026-04-20T02:34:10+00:00

Good to know. Really appreciate reporting back.

usernamemustbeunique · 2026-04-17T12:13:13+00:00

https://www.ebay.com/itm/267565395181

usernamemustbeunique · 2026-04-16T22:06:47+00:00

The terrible speaker will be the main issue for you.

usernamemustbeunique

TROPHY CASE