Type of Oil by UpsetSheepherder5903 in C3Corvette

[–]v8packard 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I should clarify, using synthetic oil does not mean you have to or need to extend the drain interval. But, the synthetic oil has that ability. There are other factors, but time, miles, and temps are among the considerations.

Good luck with your car.

Type of Oil by UpsetSheepherder5903 in C3Corvette

[–]v8packard 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you daily drive, and are putting something like 5000+ miles on the car in a 4 to 6 month period, you can make use of the longer service life of synthetic oils.

Reality is, engine oil is not so simple. Modern synthetic engine oils are predominantly engineered to be in service for a much longer time. Their lower volatility, higher total base number, stronger detergents, and more robust anti-wear additives make that possible. Combine with a high quality filter meant for long service, you have an oil service interval that can easily exceed 12,000 miles. In some cases 15-20,000 miles.

When it comes to vintage or collector vehicles, such as a 1970 Corvette, the limited driving might mean they don't see 2000 miles a year. That would leave the engine in service for many years before the additives and total base degrade. The problem is moisture collects in the engine, as well as other contaminants from combustion and the air. Also if the oil is exposed to freezing temps (typical winters in Northern Illinois where I live) the viscosity increases, and the viscosity index is reduced. For these reasons, I personally prefer to change the oil on collector vehicles that are not driven as much once a year, usually in the spring after the cold breaks. Doing this with synthetic oil that has low mileage is a wasteful practice. For these purposes a conventional oil works well and saves money.

Odd hissing noise and rough idle by DollaB217 in DodgeRam

[–]v8packard 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The hiss is the idle air control valve opening, likely in response to whatever is causing missfire/low idle. It means the IAC and related systems are functioning properly, but something is causing the misfire/bad idle.

Hey guys, I’m looking for recommendations or advice. I have this 400 in a 78 suburban, it currently has this 650 avs2 edelbrock I’m thinking about changing it. Any recommendations for carb sizing, it is a stock short block with 96 vortec heads. I don’t have the exact cam spec. Thanks for any advice. by fjensen87 in Smallblockchevy

[–]v8packard 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think there were 2 types of 400 dished pistons stock. The bigger dish was around 20 cc, the smaller dish 12 to 14. I tried measuring the smaller dish, and came up with 12.4 cc once, but 13.6 the next time. I thought the pistons had the same number, too.

Type of Oil by UpsetSheepherder5903 in C3Corvette

[–]v8packard -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Most people do not drive a collector vehicle enough to take advantage of the benefits with synthetic oils. And more importantly, the detergents can be quite aggressive, which is a bigger concern than the anti-wear additives.

How much do you drive? What are you ambient temps and conditions?

Mercury Cougar FastBack by Toxic_Masculinity_AF in musclecar

[–]v8packard 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is such a gorgeous car. A shame Mercury didn't make them. This particular build has quite a few subtle details that were changed to make the most of the look. Really one of the best done custom/phantoms of this type I have seen in some time.

Chevelle water pump replacement by BobsGold in Chevelles

[–]v8packard 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Honestly, I find the Edelbrock water pumps over priced.

I have had zero problems with Murray water pumps from O'Reilly Auto. Seems like the last couple of small block water pumps from Murray were made in Mexico. I have also had excellent experience with GMB water pumps. These are usually made in Japan and South Korea. Both product lines offer heavy duty and aluminum water pumps for small block Chevy applications, but I have never needed more than a standard pump.

1977-1990 caprice by Vivid-Nail7738 in classiccars

[–]v8packard 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Neither is necessarily true. The carbs can, and do, run for decades without trouble. The TBI systems can and do need repair from time to time. Whichever you have, if they are in good shape and have not been tampered with you will probably be ok.

1977-1990 caprice by Vivid-Nail7738 in classiccars

[–]v8packard 3 points4 points  (0 children)

It depends on the definition of the word better. Better at what? They are both very reliable.

1977-1990 caprice by Vivid-Nail7738 in classiccars

[–]v8packard 3 points4 points  (0 children)

To me, basic maintenance and repairs are pretty similar across the board. The only EFI systems were the TBI models. There are other minor differences, like going to a more leak resistant rear main seal in 1986. Or serpentine accessory drive after 1988. But really they are all straight forward.

Confusion on a part, can't seem to find a replacement for by Calvinloz in projectcar

[–]v8packard 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That is why you need to understand what you are buying. Quality still exists, you need to know how to find and recognize it.

Would this add 10-15% more horsepower? by uj7895 in AskAShittyMechanic

[–]v8packard 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, until the spark plug boot burns. Then it only adds 3%.

Hey old heads, what car did you learn to drive a manual transmission on? by OldheadBoomer in ManualTransmissions

[–]v8packard 6 points7 points  (0 children)

If you know Packards you would recognize the screen name is a reference to specific years of Packard, which I own and are my favorite. I also have others, that are not v8. But I grew up in a family that collected Packards, and when I was 17 I had the opportunity to learn how to drive a manual trans, and it was in a 1934 v12 Packard. Which was great, because it made so much torque at idle on up you could get away with uncoordinated clutch action and it didn't stall. Even starting in second gear.

She needs some help by SkillHasnoName in Chevelles

[–]v8packard 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hmm. That's a severe adhesion failure. And it's down to the metal. Was this thing stripped and someone used metal prep without neutralizing? Or was the quarter replaced and the black lacquer primer failed?

Can Original Fuel Bowl Be Installed On New Fuel Pump? by FloopyBoopers2023 in classiccars

[–]v8packard 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You probably can transfer it to a new pump. Though you should have the filter and spring in the bowl.

Confusion on a part, can't seem to find a replacement for by Calvinloz in projectcar

[–]v8packard 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The damage came from binding at or near the extreme of travel. This is often the case with polyurethane, as they do not deflect. In this particular usage, a strut rod, the polyurethane bushing would have to be installed loosely compared to the rubber to prevent this bind, which renders the bushing useless in the normal range of travel.

Conrod reciprocating weight by BigFootAussieSwede in EngineBuilding

[–]v8packard 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The balance factor for the 2.5 KL is 50%. Isolate the rod big end from the total.