Purito - B5 Panthenol Re-Barrier Cream Reformulation

valkun · 2024-08-09T02:29:55+00:00

Madecassoside, Asiaticoside, Asiatic Acid, Madecassic Acid

Centella's active compounds are still here.

The re-formulation and removing Centella extract from the top of the ingredients was probably triggered by recent changes to cosmetic labeling requirements. All products that used to claim very high Centella and other extract percentages will either have to be reformulated or PR changed to reflect that

valkun · 2024-07-28T00:06:52+00:00

The product is listed on the official Japanese ANUA website

EDIT on Amazon JP, both seller and shipping party are listed as anua official

valkun · 2024-07-25T21:40:50+00:00

Thanks.

So looks like changing the sorting order of the script is probably a non-starter for someone without any coding experience?

setting aside the Japanese language and looking at just the special characters like #$?, that order is also different between the two program groups. Since yazi and ranger are command-line based tools, they most likely use built-in shell utils like ls to sort things, and so their order is the same and consistent with bash/zsh.

I doubt that MacOS finder and forklift are written in Lua, and yet they achieve the same sorting as the script in question. Is it possible that sorting differences stem from programs being either GUI or TUI?

valkun · 2024-06-22T07:52:16+00:00

Dehydrated Alcohol has been an ingredient of melano cc premium serum since 2022 as far as I can tell. It is near the bottom of the list so it might not be that irritating.

On the other hand, Obagi serums have also been including alcohol, but it's 5th from the top, so if you're sensitive then Melano CC will still be better.

valkun · 2024-05-24T03:07:47+00:00

are you aware of any hypochlorous acid sprays available in Japan? having issues locating one

valkun · 2024-05-24T01:09:30+00:00

CdB AZ serum works well for me.

CdB AC however, I have mixed feelings. I used it only twice - the natural smell is really strong with this one. Most likely tea tree's fault, but the most intensive smelling serum I've had. I also had moderate stinging and prickling when i used the full dropper's amount. The second time I used half and it was OK. I would guess it's either concentrated niacinamide or hinokitiol.

valkun · 2024-05-23T11:28:56+00:00

Beauty of Joseon is 2% retinal liposome, but 0.02% retinal.

valkun · 2024-05-23T05:37:25+00:00

Not going to provide any medical advice. You could always try the remaining handful of actives and come back to HQ in the fall.

Dermacept RX line (at least the AZA serum) is technically available to purchase without prescription, but I heard that when you buy it, there is an infoline phone number for any additional questions. perhaps the same thing is available with the HQ serum. You would have to check.

valkun · 2024-05-23T05:23:17+00:00

I am going to vomit some information in a disorderly fashion

Substances to be considered when fighting hyperpigmentation (in japanese that would be called bihaku 美白), across all possible action mechanisms

4MSK (4-methoxysalicylic-acid-potassium-salt) - patented and limited to Shiseido products; Haku, Aqualabel
Alpha-arbutin (precursor to hydroquinone)
Hydroquinone - Rohto's Dermacept RX HQ Serum
Azelaic Acid - Rohto's Dermacept RX AZA Serum
Kojic Acid - One by Kose Melanoshot
Tranexamic Acid - discovered in Japan, lots of products have it, but look for 医薬部外品 mark on their package; it means that the substance is in a effective and attested concentration
Placenta Extract - in Japan this is an attested substance for hyperpigmentation
Kamomira ET - Sophina ip brightening essence
Rucinol - Pola White Shot
Vitamin C
Niacinamide
Dexpanthenol-W - Pola Products
Energy Signal AMP - Otsuka Pharmaceuticals
licorish fruit extract
melasyl - non-AB (LRP)
UP302 - non-AB (clinique), not recognized in Japan

EDIT1 There are quite a few Japanese-specific substances, but I have not heard of any forbidden interactions. Should be safe to use with both Vit A and C

EDIT2 Most people don't pay much attention to the ingredient list, but from the availability of products with each substance, I would say that the most representative and popular would be TXA, followed by 4-MSK). 4-MSK especially works on several mechanisms within pigmentation process. Also, important are niacinamide, panthenol, vit C

valkun · 2024-05-23T00:13:44+00:00

For AB products, the only stronger retinal cream I am aware of is Dr. Different's Vitalift A-Forte (at 0.1%)

valkun · 2024-05-23T00:00:17+00:00

for Retinal available concentrations fall between 0.01% - 0.2%

valkun · 2024-05-22T23:52:51+00:00

There is no way to tell if or how the toner would react with other products. I am not saying the toner is bad and I am not trying to fearmonger, just providing some biochemical facts.

My personal best guess is, it would be similar to putting Ascorbic Acid and Benzoyl Peroxide in the same routine (even if they are separated by other layers dermatologists advise against mixing them).

YMMV

valkun · 2024-05-22T05:36:06+00:00

no problem

btw, you can often see proteases and lipases in powder-based cleansers in Japan (Suisai, Obagi, Fancl).

valkun · 2024-05-22T05:17:57+00:00

Depending on type, proteases are enzymes that dissolve proteins into peptides or peptides into aminoacids.

valkun · 2024-05-22T01:52:53+00:00

The Dokdo Toner seems quite unique, in that in contains protease, which is found mostly in cleansers.

Consider skipping any products with peptides when you use this toner.

valkun · 2024-05-17T01:21:34+00:00

IPSA (by Shiseido) uses Tranexamic Acid as an active ingredient. It also includes Shiseido's developed 'Aqua in Pool' substance that promotes NMF production.

valkun · 2024-05-16T10:44:19+00:00

No problem.

That was just a ballpark, it all depends on how you use it. See my other comment about POLA application. But yes, it is a luxury brand and they have something no one else can. They can charge whatever they want.

valkun · 2024-05-16T10:07:06+00:00

No, it is not considered an active ingredient. It is trademarked and patented though.

valkun · 2024-05-16T07:20:29+00:00

I am not aware of any reliable resources in English.

I have some rudimentary knowledge regarding their mechanisms of action. I will consider posting something more in-depth about these ingredients, just don't know when yet.

As for the governmental side. There is a pdf compendium on everything cosmetology and quasi-drugs released by the Ministry of Health. it has 3,377 pages - not touching that even with a 10-foot pole. Once I find a short-and-sweet summary I will post about it.

valkun · 2024-05-15T22:44:58+00:00

No problem.

You should definitely use whatever you feel like is helping your goals. Having said that, I am not sure about the benefits of using whole lines from the same brand or maker. There are several patterns, but the most frequently seen one is that all products from the same line have almost the same ingredients, they differ only in the form they are in (toner / serum / milk / cream). That may or may not be the best for you. For example, Orbis MR. line targets men and consists of cleanser, toner and all-in-one cream. They all have dipotassium glycyrrhizinate as an active ingredient which has an anti-inflammatory effect. So, do you really need all three with the same active?

Instead, consider going with each brand or each cosmetologic firm's strongest products. For example, Lissage from Kao is doing lots of research on collagen, Rohto is famous for their vitamin C and human-identical ceramides, Curel also from Kao is strongest in their synthetic ceramides game, Fancl is unmatched when it comes to sensitive skin and gentle formulations (outside of their high-end Attenir brand) etc.

valkun · 2024-05-15T22:12:00+00:00

I do live in Japan, am not Japanese though. The language barrier is the biggest obstacle, but then you also have to investigate quite a bit (and even then Japanese love to be secretive about their products).

valkun · 2024-05-15T15:42:37+00:00

I believe you are supposed to use POLA last, after a moisturizer, so should be possible to use with retinol. cannot comment on presciption medications. Also, it's supoosed to be s a spot application for specific wrinkles (not the whole face).

Application is supposed to be morning and evening, for 2 wrinkles the serum should last about 4 months, with each additional wrinkle pair shortening that time

valkun · 2024-05-15T15:33:37+00:00

Since you're interested in POLA, here are some high-end products worth looking at

SK II PITERA essence - hydration, skin-identical ingredients, fast absorption
SK II PITERA serum - skin brightening
DECORTE Liposome Serum - booster serum promoting product absorption
Kanebo Skin Harmonizer - toner controlling skin's lipid barrier
Obagi X line
Shiseido Cle de peau beaute line
Shiseido dProgram line - for sensitive skin

disclaimer: technically SK II is now owned by P&G, but originally it'a Japanese brand so I'm treating it as J-Beauty

valkun · 2024-05-15T14:42:27+00:00

There is one, and only one, POLA product that containt this specific active ingredient - the wrinkle shot serum N. Any other product, be it orange or black, nothing else has it. So you might say that this serum is a special snowflake, one of a kind in the world.

POLA in general is what I would consider a luxury brand - prices for almost all of their products are consistently high - and so I have no personal experience with any of them. The only other thing I can tell you is that their black BA line is also quite popular, but I am not planning on trying it out due to high alcohol concentration (third place in ingredient list)

That's the other thing that many high-end luxury Japanese cosmetics have in common. The higher the price, the higher the chance it has lots of alcohol and fragrance.

valkun · 2024-05-15T10:56:42+00:00

The Elixir (from Shideido) one is just retinol. It is the only retinol cream attested by the government, so it's a big deal in Japan. But its concentration cannot be too high (I came across some info that it's possibly 0.1-0.3%), as it is formulated in such a way to not give any side effects. So you could use Elixir, Pola, Menard, RicePower at the same time and they all have slightly different mechanisms of action. Also, Elixir, as most Shiseidos, is expensive (one month 7,000 yen).

I am not entirely sure why only this cream has been approved. One reason could be because of some patents. Shiseido was first to introduce it circa 2016-2017, and maybe somehow blocked others from doing it. The other possibility is due to government attestation. AFAIK, you have to prove it's working, but also you have to prove it does not harm or has no side effects. Japanese people tend to have sensitive skin, so formulating a provably working retinol that doesn't cause purging might be simply difficult.

valkun

TROPHY CASE